JAE Builds

[Chilli]

Battery behind the rear boom. Controller in front with a couple inches of extention added to the controllers motor leads. Doug adds a little sub floor that the battery sits on so he can run the wires under the battery. I just lay the wires accross the top of the battery. When I want to change packs, I gently pull the controller out with wire and cooling tubes attaced and lay them down the back half of the tub.

[NativePaul]

Holy smokes Im glad I read this tonight, Í was planing on chiseling out the bottom of the front bulkhead today so my battery will fit flat in front of the rear boom, but some chores came up and I didnt get round to it, I would have done it tomorow. I wouldnt have guessed in a million years that the battery went behind the rear sponson tube, does anyone have a top down photo with the hatch/s off and all the gear in to see if there is anything else I have missed?

how do you guys feel about sanding the sponson overhangs- it says in the manual theyre only for getting on plane and if you use a high power motor then sand them off

Thanks, it doent explain that that is why in the online instructions, but with that being the case I will feel free to sand them off. I actually specificaly asked for a manual as my printer was down at the time I came up on the list but didnt get any, I wasnt too annoyed because by the time my kit arrived I had installed linux so I have web access again, (wont speat to my printer of course) at least its a laptop so I can have it with me in the build room but now I hear theres more to the manual than the online instructions I'm peved. Is there any chance someone with a manual can have a quick read of the online instructions and post the differences?

[Doug Smock]

Check out post #44 for the inside pics Paul.

Doug

[NativePaul]

Those pics have no battery in and were from before you ran it if im not mistaken, after tuning is your battery hard up against the boom tube?

With the battery that far back theres room for a lot more flaotation than the online instructions show which is a very good thing, I didnt think the tub had enough before.

Mines going to have 5000mah LiPo and an XL motor for naviga Hydro2 endurance racing,with that extra weight in mind I sourced some solid carbon rods for the booms, 8mm JUST fits the brass tube but it is more snug than the tubes that came with the kit, are your solid rods snugger than the tubes too or did I just luck out finding a metric size that is only fractionally larger than the imperial equivalent?

[Doug Smock]

The boat (with this setup) just doesn't care if the battery is up against the boom tube or not. The only tuning I have done has been with props. I've used 4200s, 5000s, 5500s, and have seen no difference in performance or handling.

Since you are going to use a XL motor, and I'm assuming a different ESC, RX pack??. I would build the boat up to the installation of the stuffing tube and ski. Lay all of the componets in the hull, adjust things until you have the 60/40 weight distribution (a cg of 13.25" will put you VERY close) before you do the installation as things may change a bit with your setup.
Yes the solid rods Joe sent are just a bit larger the tubes that were originally sent with the kit.

I hope this helps. Post some pics of your build.

Doug

[Chuck E Cheese]

here is mine

[Doug Smock]

Making some progress.
Floatation is in, sub decks, decks and nose pieces are on. Sponsons are well on their way.

D.

[BakedMopar]

How do you find the 60/40 weight distribution?

[6S HYDRO]

can someone please give me the distance from the transom to the back edge of the strut

[Chilli]

I have a fixed strut made by Jim Mamaril on the IW forum. This is a pic taken while it was being put together. I now have a 1mm CF plate between the strut and transome Finished product is at 2-7/8"

[6S HYDRO]

i will be using an adjustable strut, anyone with an adjustable strut like smock's can you please advise me the distance from transom to back of strut please

[Chuck E Cheese]

this boat doesnt care....

[NativePaul]

If the boat doesnt care what is the reason for the half inch block betwwen the transom and the adjustable strut in the online build instructions? The transom seems plenty stiff enough without it so I was thinking that it was just to move the prop back half an inch, if it really doen't care I should leave it off and save some weight.

[Chilli]

My understanding is that the transom block is used to move the nose of the strut back on adjustable struts so that it can sit as low to the ski as possible. Others have been cutting off the nose of the strut to get it down against the ski.

[longballlumber]

The "block" on the transom is to prevent/minimize holes thru transom. That is the only reason.

Later,
Mike