I'm thinking about making them flush mount by pouring clear epoxy into the recesses. The LEDs are sunken in by a few millimeters. When it come time to paint, I can just mask off a tiny dot.
A bolt went through the edge at the door to body gap and both pushed and pulled the body. Nothing a little grinder action couldn't handle.
I got all of the supporting frame parts on the second, and pretty much had a single day to get it running.
I was scared about the integrity of the wheels too, but considering the abuse I put on them afterwards, I positive they are good.
I hit the tire wall on turn 10 at Road Atlanta. That was the last few laps of the day and we were pushing harder and harder. At that point, I was braking at the very limit. I believe I got on the throttle a little too early and ended up in a drift (which really isn't a concern). As I slowly backed off to track out, the front end just caught like as if I mashed the brakes. I should have still had my weight over the rear, but I don't know. We've looked at the video over and over and over again, but still haven't been able to determine exactly where I went wrong.
At the end of the day, I wouldn't change a thing. We went out and had fun.
Impressive work in your own garage. What kind of hit did those wheels take, just glancing? If they're not forged, that spoke pattern scares me, and I would inspect them from the back side for cracks. It seems like I'm seeing more posts online about cracked wheels now vs. 10 years ago. With your front end off, might be a good chance to blow out the condenser from behind with compressed air. Can never have too much flow to the rad at the track.
So I guess I might as well say it. I probably would have been finished with this build by now, but I got into a little incident at my last track event. It happened October 21 and I needed my car running again for November 4th. I'm in the process of fixing it myself. So this is on the back burner, but should still be ready for Christmas.
And as of yesterday, I did this to further refine it, then put a final layer of primer down (not shown). I'll be applying a base coat in a few days, then wrapping the entire car.
So believe, I'm not laying idle, just busy with other stuff.
You can see the two drill holes in the hull's side.
That little chip is the voltage regulator for direct power to the LEDs. I got both 5mm and 8mm, but will use the 5mm. I may add the smaller diffused 3mm to the inside of the hull. After all, if you will be out late enough to actually use the nav lights, some internal lighting wouldn't hurt.
I also got to mock the decals up. They will most likely be silver or black, but I still need to figure out where I'm going with the boat itself. The pieces you see on the paper will be "carbon". Yes I recreated the original canopy.
As much as I hate how big, bulky, and heavy the T180 is, it's probably my only logical choice. The Raider/Flycolor 150 is perfect as far as fitment is concerned, but it may be on the small side. I've been keeping an eye on the "service" from Hifie in the respective forum. The Swordies are definitely off of the list.
On a side note, the remaining parts for the lighting system are on the way. The ETA is next Wednesday which is actually very late considering it was shipped on the 8th.
Thanks, much appreciated. I definitely will keep them flowing!
I received the component LED's and have mentally put together how I will set it up. Instead of running individual current drivers or using a resistor on each LED, I'll just feed them with 3.3v and directly wire them. The only LED with a resistor would be the red. I drilled four holes into the hull for them, but I don't think that would make much of a picture.
I managed to find the font that HPR uses. Then I found another that doesn't quite make the HPR look good, but I like the Sentinel.
I tried to place them inside, but I can't get the boots over the tubing once inside. I would need a 4" or greater length to even come close to be able to mount the boot. It's just way too tight even for my skinny fingers. Unless I went with smaller tubing which would make the connection weaker. At least, that's what I would think.
Been awhile since I checked for updates, kudos on the cap bank design, that's really neat. Is it possible to put the rubber boots on the linkages inside the hull? I mounted mine that way, just looks a little cleaner in my opinion, but certainly up to you.
Leave a comment: