Yep. I noticed it when I pressed on the area and the edge around where I sanded completely lifted. So I started scraping away with a razor and that's what I got.
One thing I didn't see coming is the white haze you see on the battery tray. The Gorilla Super Glue I used to try to stick some of the pool noodles together gassed and left a lot of that stuff everywhere. What surprising is that I feared that would happened and left it to gas off for over 24 hours before I actually put the noodles in the hull. So after all of the body work, I have to give the interior a good scrub down.
Shawn, which hull did you get?
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HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build
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Umm... wow! So was that JUST gelcoat on the surface?
Just starting my HPR now.
Shawn
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Letting this sit for a while before I start sanding. I also trimmed the hatch cut out. Now it's all nice and pretty....And dusty.
Now I'm in full "how to paint it" mode. Something simple and symmetrical is all I want. The bottom will be white for sure. My windshield and "turbine hatch" decals are black carbon. The lettering for everything else is white or silver. (I have both colors.) I'm all for throwing red in the mix as long as it doesn't make it look ricey.



sent from under your bed
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I didn't sand the entire rear void out. The front on the other hand truly was a void. There was a pretty impressive air pocket under the gel coat.





sent from under your bed
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Slight update: I have not ran the boat yet. I did however redesign the light buckets. They are now a two piece clamping design that will allow me to easily mount the led separately, then attach that to the final external bezel. Aside from that, I'll most likely be doing all of the body work before it hits the water.
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I'm probably going to reduce the motor to esc wires a bit before I actually run it. Right now, I'm planning out the cover in case the reduced wiring doesn't suffice.
Turns out, my stash of carbon rods is missing... gotta love moving. I have to make a trip to the LHS for some. That's what I'll use for the hatch pins. (I know, it was against recommendation, but if the cause was determined above, there shouldn't be any issue.)
I also have to clean up the hatch cutout on the hull. I purchased a cheap band file sander to remove some welds when I was bringing my car back to life. That should work pretty good for this since it has a long flat sanding surface.
I will ape over the holes I made for the lights until the boat gets painted. The lights setup itself is kinda of annoying me. Without "permanently" gluing them, there is no real way to secure the bezels. Also the LEDs I used are straw hats. I feared that standard LED's would be too tall. What interesting is that the straw hats aren't actually 5mm LEDs. They are 4.7-4.8mm, if not smaller. I shoved a 5mm into the buckets and it stayed in snug as I would have wanted. The straw hats on the other hand, just fall out, even with some heatshrink wrapped around them. I'll trade out all of the straw hats for standard 5mm LEDs.
The chrome on the motors irritate me. I hate chrome with a passion. The thought of masking off the endbells and running the motors against 1000 or 2500 grit sandpaper came to mind.
There seems to be a weird bug that prevents images from url's through the image tool. I manually used [img][/img] to post that pic.
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I enjoy your photos. I am amazed at the quality of the work he is showing.
Regards!
Saludos!
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Well you have done well for a so called 'slow build', my last one took me all of a year! LOL.
Looks good, most of us just make some sort of cover for the wiring. It is all one can do.
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I only gave enough to make sure everything was operating properly.
The "blade" antenna actually isn't that big. The difference between the blade and the shark fin is the orientation.
I'm just using SketchUp.
Nothing like wires to kill the prettiness. The caps on the esc wires are obnoxious too. Why could they have placed the closer to the ESC? I still have to figure out how I'm going to balance the two sides. With these ESCs, I may have to peel away the shrink around the caps and solder my cap bank wires directly to the ESC cap bank.
I can shorten the ESC>motor wires a lot, but I'm not sure how much that will do as far as looks is concerned. I may design a carbon plate for each side to cover it all.
It will run as seen here.

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That antenna looks way too big, pretty much a copy of the spektrum one which is ok on the radio, but not on a smooth, classy boat like this one. I was thinking of something more flush, maybe 1" tall, like this here https://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Chr...&wl13=&veh=sem. Btw, not sure if i asked already, but what cad program is that?
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Take care running motors on the workbench...have seen lot of people destroying them.
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The speed controllers arrived today. I need to make a short extension for the right ESC, but aside from that, everything seems straight. I only spun one motor, but man does it sound like nothing else. It's like a mini turbine.
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My internet is down for some reason so here is are some cell pictures of my screen...
36mm tall, 20.75mm long, 10mm wide
I doubt it will fit aesthetically, but I wanted to design it anyway. I'll make a printout to see if I even want to pursue it.
What is seen here is just the fin. There is a base that would be completely covered. The base is what you would attach to the hull.


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I ordered a five pack of black 2.5" of 2" id 52" long pool noodles for $15 shipped. I was going to get a single black 3" by 60" solid noodle for $14, but I decided to procrastinate for absolutely no reason. It seems to have paid off.
The ESCs finally shipped yesterday.
The weatherstripping came in. It's thick enough to get the job down without lifting the hatch off of the hull. So that's a win.
I tested the cap bank too. Unfortunately I had no way to discharge it once it got up to 24v. It stayed above 20v for at least an hour. I also sealed the traces with black silicone and placed it in the case. It's surprisingly clean.
I also found some 12awg silicone wire that I can use for the cap bank connection. I purchased 14awg, but bigger can't hurt. I can't imagine the batteries needing to balance voltage that much, but still.
Stuff stuff stuff
[Insert cool picture]
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