HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build

[boredom.is.me]

Almost there for real this time.

Not much to report. They are hoping to have it finished this weekend.

[fweasel]

Wow, blast from the past. I had forgotten about this build. So many cool custom parts inside. Hope it gets to run sooner than later.

[boredom.is.me]

This poor thing never saw water. After the botched paint job, I lost motivation. Well I have been making slow progress over the past few months. Going back over things that could be changed and improved. Yesterday, I dropped the hull off at a paint shop yesterday. It will remain simple with a white bottom and grey top. The tear drop as well as the deck recess will be white as well.

[srislash]

Some trimming needs to be done around where the hull tapers (sides and bottom), but so far, it all fits good. I still have enough foam for another layer along with the 1.5" tubing. Another possibility is to place a smaller backing rod (same material) inside of the piping insulation tubes.

I was also able to get an idea for some basic paint from a body shop. I first spoke to the painter. We were both on the same page, and he understood that I would have been doing all of the body work and only wanted the actual paint. We even went over different types of primers that would fill in the slight imperfections that would still be present. But of course things change when the "finance guy" steps into the picture. Right away, he pulled the "you don't know anything" act. I let him go on about how it would have to be sanded down which would get carbon dust everywhere, which means that it would have to be isolated in the shop. He went on and on to the point where I just had to stop him. "There is fiberglass, gelcoat, and my own body work. If you make it down the carbon, you screwed up big time." (I can't be a salesman. Assuming every potential customer is clueless and talking down to them is never cool.) He said it would be a minimum of $600, even for an incredibly basic spray. Don't get me wrong. I understand that there is a lot of equipment and other overheads, but it's not worth it. I really just wanted a nice grey that I can't find in a can.

There aren't any pics, but the last bit of putty is on. After this sanding, it should be good for a second spray attempt.


EDIT:
Can anyone see the pictures? Everything from post 141 isn't showing up for me on my PC, but is there through Tapatalk on my phone.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

See them fine from my iPad

[boredom.is.me]

Some trimming needs to be done around where the hull tapers (sides and bottom), but so far, it all fits good. I still have enough foam for another layer along with the 1.5" tubing. Another possibility is to place a smaller backing rod (same material) inside of the piping insulation tubes.

I was also able to get an idea for some basic paint from a body shop. I first spoke to the painter. We were both on the same page, and he understood that I would have been doing all of the body work and only wanted the actual paint. We even went over different types of primers that would fill in the slight imperfections that would still be present. But of course things change when the "finance guy" steps into the picture. Right away, he pulled the "you don't know anything" act. I let him go on about how it would have to be sanded down which would get carbon dust everywhere, which means that it would have to be isolated in the shop. He went on and on to the point where I just had to stop him. "There is fiberglass, gelcoat, and my own body work. If you make it down the carbon, you screwed up big time." (I can't be a salesman. Assuming every potential customer is clueless and talking down to them is never cool.) He said it would be a minimum of $600, even for an incredibly basic spray. Don't get me wrong. I understand that there is a lot of equipment and other overheads, but it's not worth it. I really just wanted a nice grey that I can't find in a can.

There aren't any pics, but the last bit of putty is on. After this sanding, it should be good for a second spray attempt.


EDIT:
Can anyone see the pictures? Everything from post 141 isn't showing up for me on my PC, but is there through Tapatalk on my phone.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[boredom.is.me]

The batteries are in the most forward position in this pic. The total travel is 90mm from insertion. I'd say there is a safe 80mm though.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[boredom.is.me]

The esc trays have been made. The first picture is of course two bottoms, but it gives an idea of what it would look like with 40mm standoffs and a cover. The covers aren't a priority though.

I made an extra sled made, because what's the point of having a sled with only one pack.

I ordered some super high quality sleeving, enough to wrap each wire and waterline.

Then there was some test fitting. The trays were fitted with 6mm standoffs and tiny pieces of double sided tape. I'd like to move the esc's back to help with balance. With the esc's mounted in front of the motor mount bolts, the 11200mAh 6S2P is less than 10mm from max aft position to achieve a 30% balance. These are a little bigger than what it would run, but it is an available option. I moved a SINGLE esc back by about 45mm. That alone allowed the batteries to slide forward another 20mm or so. Keep in mind that this is not with the rear mounted hardware or the pound worth of flotation, most of which is under the deck.

Moving it back does require me change the way I made the cap bank to esc wires, but that's no biggie.

Would there be any issues with the motor wires running under the receiver? I pretty sure I can almost cut the esc motor wires in half if it stays in the rear position.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[boredom.is.me]

forgot the pics...

[boredom.is.me]

I ordered some 1" polyethylene sheets. It's the same foam used to make pool noodles. I do have black noodles, but it's just an awkward shape. I figured I could use more area in a neater way with the sheet. My AUW should be just under 6kg (~13lb). What you see is 7.38kg worth of flotation, but that's only 3" thick. I can still fit another two narrower layers into the V.

I also got the ESC's finished. I just have to figure out how to cover it up. Maybe some heat shrink around the bullet with a dab of epoxy around the solder joint.

[boredom.is.me]

Also, each light is color coded.

[boredom.is.me]

Simple indeed, but I just don't want plain white or black.

It took me forever to do this. I was playing around with a bunch of different ideas and this is what I came up with.

I disliked the fact that Turnigy decided to put the capacitors so far from the ESC. I also had a little trouble soldering at first (wasn't using flux) and ended up just cutting the wire.

The end result has the original capacitors on some 12awg wire that also connects to the capacitor bank. The connectors going to the cap bank will be shortened and installed at a 90 degree angle.

It may not look like it, but the main power is a solid joint. The cap connection isn't as thorough as I didn't want to compromise the main joint. I can sleeve them together (black) or individually (red and black).

I'm also working on new light buckets. I just have to add connectors (and one resistor for red). The lights are controlled through the tx/rx and runs off of a 3.3v converter.

Also going to add an anti-spark through the balance connector. Both positive and negative will have resistance to completely stop current flow after initial connection.

[fweasel]

I've always liked "simple is better" when it comes to paint work. You can play with vinyl stripes or graphics to break up large areas as needed which is obviously mush easier to work with and change.

[boredom.is.me]

Soooo... I said I would let it sit to see if it would grow on me. The longer it sat, the more I disliked it. I tried to strip it and that quickly turned into a disaster. Months went by with it in my room to the point where I got sick of having such a sweet hull going no where. I gave it a 90% sand job tonight. The damage came from the stripper I used. It began to eat into the gel coat surprisingly quick. Here is the result. The sides are covered in small pin holes. There is no actual damage to the boat itself, just the gel coat and of course any paint that was on there.

First thing is to completely finish the sanding. Once that is complete, the surface may still be slightly uneven due to the primer's sanding, but it won't be too off. Then I'll fill the pin holes along the sides and smooth it back down. After that, I'm going to visit a professional body shop to see if a thick primer can be applied to even out the slight layer differences from sanding. I'll give it one final sanding since the primer should be even and uniform. The last step would be a proper paint job. By that, I don't mean flames or lightning bolts. I simply mean from a shop.

For some reason, I'm leaning towards a burnt-ish copper-like orange. I still have all of my decals in both silver and white as well as a carbon decal for the windshield and "turbine" hatches. Because of that, the paint can't be too dark. Ideas?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[boredom.is.me]

So it's actually quite dark. I kinda jumped off the deep end with this one, but I'm not entirely dissappointed. But now that it's done, I can get it in the water, which is what really counts.

[golfito]

Great!!