HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build

[iridebikes247]

I have experience with the sf220a they're pretty strong 6s escs, lot of power have used in 90+ mph twin cats around 36". Quite a few people have run the seaking 180, both new and old versions with good results. I think the swordfish 220 or seaking will work well with your setup. Nice work again.

[boredom.is.me]

I also got the latches.

[boredom.is.me]

The revised sled accessories came today. They work perfect! They have an adjustable grip range to account for possible inconsistencies in the sheet thickness. I made them for 3mm, but they should easily work with a 1/8" base thickness as well. I just need to get a thumbscrew.

[boredom.is.me]

The slide mechanics I designed weren't quite up to par, but I learned what mistakes I made and how to fix them. I already have replacement sets on the way.

I just picked up an 11pm to 7am job and still have classes on Mondays and Wednesdays, but the bulk of the build is already completed. It WILL be completed sometime through November.

[boredom.is.me]

I might as well throw this into the thought pile. And I'm bored...

Swordfish 220A 6s $110 164g 104x41x22 - is SF reliable? Reading the SF forum is scary.
Swordfish 200A 8s $130 164g 104x41x22 - see above
Turnigy 180A 6s $83 245g 72x48x37 - annoying form factor and heavy
Seaking 160A Pro $114 127g 109x52x15 - no real world info and lesser $ value
Raider 150A 6s $75 169g 76x56x25 - favorite form factor
Flycolor 150A 6s $40 169g 76x56x25 - raider rebrand

The final bits for the steering is on the way.
I made the lipo sled.
One of the couplers is off center. :/

And that's my ramble for at least another 12 hours.

[boredom.is.me]

Mostly everything is officially glued in. I ended up mixing a 12 gram batch of 105/207 West System epoxy and added maybe .25g of carbon dust to it. That little amount was all that was needed to turn it black. (It's not really black. It's still clear, but turns into a glimmering black as it gets deeper. It really is pretty, to me at least.) I let it sit for about 45 minutes, then pasted it on to the mount rails. The underside was already coated from before so it's not lacking any contact there. The packing peanut was just there to hold the stuffing tubes while the glue tacked a little more. I then inserted both flex cables with stingers mounted and lined up the motors.

Once it all cures, I'll add black heatshrink over the stuffing tubes. If needed or recommended, I'll add supports to the stuffing tubes.

The only thing left is to glue the control linkage tubes in place. For that, I went with 1/4" aluminum tubing cut to about 70mm. Otherwise, I pretty much threw out my previous idea for the steering assembly. I over thought as usual. I'm going to use Sullivan's .056" flexible pushrod instead of the 2mm (overkill) I had in mind. I had the smaller .032" version on hand and got to playing with that and liked it more.

The tiny hole under the rudder hole was my first pilot hole for the rudder. I underestimated how thick the layup is. It has been filled.

The motors can be rotated in increments of 45 degrees. They are straight up in this picture, but are clocked 45 to the outside in all of the others. I'm going to see if I can get the wires to pass under the mount. There is a fair amount of room under there so it's worth a shot to keep it clean.

[boredom.is.me]

I don't really have anything new to report.

I still haven't ordered the ESCs. I was planning on going with SF220's, but the more I look at Swordfish products, the more I see how much trouble I might be getting in. With that said, it's back to the T180's.

I ordered the remaining bits for the battery sled.

[boredom.is.me]

Servo Tray is mounted and motor mounts are tacked.

[boredom.is.me]

I did some research on the Sikaflex. That stuff seems pretty runny. With such a deep vee, it would probably end up being a pain to work with. It's also VERY flexible.

I did some research after asking and found that West G-Flex is a very common recommendation, as well as marine JB Weld.


Aside from that, I completed the aluminum mounting bracket for the servo.

[axel]

We use Sikaflex

[boredom.is.me]

I trimmed the motor shafts, and made the stuffing tube connector/spacer. The motor angle is perfect and it's time to glue it in. Should I use epoxy thickened with carbon dust, or should I use JB Weld?

[boredom.is.me]

I'm going to cut the shaft by about 6-8mm. I may extend the flat afterwards.

[boredom.is.me]

I cut the stuffing tubes to length. Should I epoxy them to the transom, or would I be better off using silicone? I will make a support bracket out of 3mm. The main purpose would be to keep the spacing correct during install. I would probably use silicone for the supports.

I finalized the hardware for the battery sled and will have those parts printed. The battery tray will be mounted to the hill with silicone.

[boredom.is.me]

I made the motor mount side plates made. I couldn't wait. I laminated a 2mm and a 3mm sheet to create a 5mm sheet. You can't even tell it was two pieces. The completed motor mount (without motor screws) weighs 75g.

The battery tray weighs 136g. The estimated sled weight is 67g, so I should be around 220g with all hardware. That is 45g heavier than HPR's version, but is significantly stronger since it is 3mm and not 2mm, and fits the hull much better. My design also gives a little more versatility.

The servo mount (minus aluminum bottom plate) weighs 17.5g.

Above all else, I designed every bit of hardware going inside this boat.

[boredom.is.me]

Thank you!

I do not mind the wait. The boat will not have it's maiden until the end of this year or the beginning of next year.



I got the 3mm carbon parts done. The four longer cutouts on the battery tray are not perfect so I will finish those up by hand. The endmill took the easy way and deflected to the open inner region during the cuts. The rest is perfect though. The tray has an 80mm adjstment range. I would have gone longer, but didn't due to raw material size. The battery sled itself will be made out of 2mm.

I laminated a 2mm piece over a portion of 3mm. That 5mm piece will be used for the motor mounts. I will get to that as well as a few more aluminum bits on Monday or Tuesday.