HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build

[golfito]

It looks awesome. Mechanized are really beautiful.

If I understood well, is expecting shipments of China ?. So you do not feel bad, I also hope shipments from the month of July !!! ... and HKong from September 1 ...

[boredom.is.me]

The ball links and mount for the servo arm went out for delivery on the 15th. Apparently it was forwarded and has been lost ever since. Aside from that, I have most of the hardware. I got 1/4" brass for the stuffing and will run it without the liner. I already bent it to shape. I just have to cut the middle (for a left and right) and trim to match the motor shafts. I got aluminum tubing in six different diameters. I'm supposed to be getting the carbon, servo, and connectors today (23rd), but highly doubt that. I have the cable as well. I knew it was going to be overkill but wow.

And there's my useless update...

[boredom.is.me]

Ya, they're beefier than I was expecting.

In other news, I ordered the carbon, servo, couplers, and some connectors. The couplers are coming from China though.

[Tamelesstgr]

Man, those look like beasts!

[boredom.is.me]

Got the motors! I weighed one of them at 300g.

[TheShaddix]

oh, i see. It's been a while since I used those. I'd definitely grind the cable down to make it fit. I'd use a drill on one end, wrap sandpaper around the other and just spin it so it's uniform. Also, I'd add some roughness on the inside of the shaft with sandpaper or a drill bit so you get a better bite.

[boredom.is.me]

I won't be using the pass throughs.

The shaft needs about .5mm worth of reaming. They aren't close to fitting as is. There is no forcing it in.

[TheShaddix]

Why do you need such large inlets? They look too big for the boat style and serve no real purpose. You could use a tiny brass tube connected to a plastic tube large enough to barely clear the steering cables. And for your previous dilemma, just drill out the drives, don't mess with the flex diameters. Do they at least spin a little in there or way too big? You could put the cable into a drill and just let it spin to break it in.

[boredom.is.me]

...

[boredom.is.me]

I have taken a look at the Secraft hardware. I also read you loud and clear. I actually can't even access the inside portion of the pushrod exit. I was more interested in it for aesthetic reasons, but they are huge. They have 8mm inner diameters.


After working with the shafts a little, I have found that one of them is just undersized. I can try to:
1) drill the shaft out.
2) shave the outer diameter on the flex
3) complain about spending $250 on hardware that can't even fit what it's made for.

I also trimmed the barbs on the inlets.

[TheShaddix]

looking great! The rubber pieces you want to use for the pull pull setup... Don't bother. The water will still go through those because the cables are not solid metal. All you need are plastic tubes with oil in them - no water will go in. Another problem with those rubber pieces is that they just create extra work for the servo. Also, have you heard of secraft couplers? You can get those on ebay.

[boredom.is.me]

Got some work done today. I made the cut outs for the water inlets. They are a little close so I will most likely cut the top barb off. They are a lot bigger than I thought they would be, so now I need to get larger 4mm hose instead of the 3mm that I picked up.

I went with 7mm brass tubing with liner. (I like my metrics.) The flex is really tight though. It may just be the end so I will cut off about 20mm and try again. If not I'll just go linerless. The second issue is that one prop shaft fits the cables fine. The other is too tight. The shafts are not the same... They are getting rejected by the prop shaft that came with the rusted drive dog and shorter threads.

I actually filled the shaft holes and redrilled them. What ever stuffing I go with will be directly epoxied to the transom.

Although not shown, I started trimming the hatch opening.

[boredom.is.me]

It took a while and my brain now farts when I try, but I figured something out. I will not have to drill my control horns out. I get ball joints on both ends. It can be adjusted. It shouldn't have any issues passing through bellows. It will also use 2mm cable. The downside is that I have to get the parts from four different sources.

linkage.jpg


I'm also strongly considering the Lift and Turn Latches. I can get them from here in the US for $37 shipped which is waaaaaay cheaper than what MHZ (Germany) sells them for. If anyone is interested, it is the first page in this link. They were used in both of the following builds.

http://www.hpr-powerboats.ch/cpg149/thumbnails.php?album=204

http://www.hpr-powerboats.ch/cpg149/displayimage.php?album=108&pos=10

[boredom.is.me]

I've hit a planning road block.

Issue #1

I am trying to devise a pull pull setup.

I'll be using these to get the cables through the hull.
90316d9690967030ba37b9f6cc4527bc_4rkb.jpg

My problem is that the bolt holes on the rudder are 2.5mm in diameter. I refuse to drill them to 3mm. The only ball links I could find have a 2.5mm control rod hole.
HTB1KWH8KXXXXXbZXXXXq6xXFXXX8.jpg

I would like to use this or similar to connect the wire to the servo arm.
d53ea0bb03d88d82939026963efa621b.jpg


OR Should I just use rigid rods and call it a day? I will be making my own servo horn which will maintain the same spacing as the rudder.


Issue #2

How much of my brass tube and liner is supposed to go into the struts? I'm assuming that the liner should go as far as possible, but really doesn't matter. Also how do I support the brass tube? The strut mount is really just a giant hole. I could possibly machine new backing plates out of 1/4" or 1/2" that have stuffing supports built it. Sorry for the noob question.

[boredom.is.me]

Thank you sirs. I have an alright update.

I placed 2mm depron gaskets at all through hull holes.

Those little cubes are simply m3 threads. I'll glie them down to various points to help clean up water hoses and wiring. They are really easy to make, but even easier to mess up. I don't have a drill press so getting a straight bore on the threads on a part this small is really difficult. Out of the four, two I consider failures, one is alright, and the other is great. I'll probably make a bunch more when I make the ESC base mounts.

I also got a new toy. This will help me get a cleaner cut on the hatch opening. It's a bit overkill, but I got for cutting car hoods. :)