HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build

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  • boredom.is.me
    replied
    Thank you again.

    One thing I thought of as I was making the cap bank was to have one or two connected to the receiver itself. I did that on my 51" Slick since I lived on an airport. I never had any brownouts or signal issues. I'm not saying it was all because of the cap, but I know for a fact pulling 40 degree surface deflection at speed was definitely spiking the current through the receiver. The cap would have definitely been doing something. I still have three caps left so I may put two or all three on it, just because I can. :) And I can put it online with the light setup if I ever needed a fourth channel...which race boats don't need.


    Anyone know where I might find these antenna bases? You can get them in blue from the Bay and Hobbyking, but clear anodized or raw would be way better. I found them at MTL for 13€ (with VAT) for three. Then add shipping. If I can't find a U.S. supplier, I'll just suck it up, but I'm not putting those generic hex base antenna mounts on my boat.
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  • iridebikes247
    replied
    Looking good, everything is so well planned out.

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  • boredom.is.me
    replied
    The cap bank is functionally complete. Once I can confirm that it works properly, I'll seal ithe back with epoxy. I may even make an acrylic cover for the back. I followed esc polarity, meaning the make bullet is connected to the cap's positive. I'll just put some shrink around it for now. That may be all it needs to 'look' good.

    I gave the lights some thought today. I'll use 5mm straw hat LED's and will place them 12"-16" from the nose along the seam. The white will be 3"-4" from the transom. 26awg wire will be used as hook up wire. I'll have a radio controlled switch and a voltage regulator in line. This is completely unnecessary, but is something I really want to do. Everything is compact and I doubt the entire setup will weigh more than 15g.
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  • boredom.is.me
    replied
    1/32" black FR-4 base with 2oz copper on one side

    I also have double sided 1oz 1/32". I machined it myself.

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  • Espresso
    replied
    What's this V-shaped bracket made of? Black fiberglass?

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  • boredom.is.me
    replied
    Originally posted by srislash View Post
    FYI, I use glazing putty for blemishes and such. It dries quick so you can motor through the sanding process.

    As far as the front of the hatch may I suggest pins? You can drill though the front lip of the hatch and secure them on the under side. Then just drill matching holes in the hull at the front of the hatch opening for the pins to slide in. I have used steel rod and brass tube with good results.
    I missed your post. Thanks for the suggestions. I did consider the pin method as well as the tab. The pins would be easier to install, but the tab may provide an easier join to the seal.

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  • boredom.is.me
    replied
    I used a single sided black copper clad 1/32" sheet. I peeled away all excess copper, leaving only the two main traces. If I had to do this again, I would definitely make a jig to hold all four connectors straight. I managed to do it by hand, but it took a while. The solder joints would have been cleaner as well. The caps might get here tomorrow.
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  • srislash
    replied
    FYI, I use glazing putty for blemishes and such. It dries quick so you can motor through the sanding process.

    As far as the front of the hatch may I suggest pins? You can drill though the front lip of the hatch and secure them on the under side. Then just drill matching holes in the hull at the front of the hatch opening for the pins to slide in. I have used steel rod and brass tube with good results.

    Leave a comment:


  • boredom.is.me
    replied
    I took some time to finish the latch install. Man they have some weight to them. Each one weighs 51.44g. I replaced the screws that hold down the mounting bracket (c piece). I will replace as much as I can with stainless. I'll also try replacing the mounting bracket with some aluminum channel. I might also make some rings out of carbon to help distribute the clapping load on the hatch itself.

    Still debating exactly how I want to secure the front of the hatch.

    Really old news, but I replaced the 2mm white depron gaskets with 3mm grey. It looks so much better. It's the minor details that make the whole.

    My red anodized countersunk washers came in today too. I got sixteen each of m3 and m4 which should be more than enough. I do need to make an "anodized" plate to go under my "bimRC" logo on the battery sled.
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  • boredom.is.me
    replied
    I'll look for some of the all purpose bondo then. I have body filler, but it's meant for bare metal.

    Thanks! I try. Everything is trial, error, and application to the next project. If you need anything custom, let me know.

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  • 785boats
    replied
    I use automotive bodyfiller on most of my boats, be they fiberglass or wood.

    I have been reading along with this thread. Man you do some nice engineering on a lot of parts.
    Beautiful to watch.

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  • boredom.is.me
    replied
    Fun Fact: The boat in my profile picture was based off of this hull.

    I still have to trim, but have made the initial cutouts for the latches.

    Any recommendations on what to use as a body filler over the gelcoat? I can get fiberglass/epoxy dust from work and possibly mix that in with some West 105. It's a very fine white pounder that's a byproduct of sanding down fiberglass tubes. I'm pretty sure the tubes are made with polyester resin. I have Bondo but I do not believe that would be a good filler for rc boats.
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  • boredom.is.me
    replied
    I'm actually satisfied. :)
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  • boredom.is.me
    replied
    I cut 5mm thick carbon rings to fit around the 1/4" tube for the pushrod boots. I'll just cut shorter lengths of tubing and have everything external. Much simpler and easier to work on, while at the same time not impeding movement. I'm using the Aquacraft radio box boots. They are pretty much out of stock everywhere so I picked a few extra sets. They are very small and much more compressible/stretchable than normal boots.
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  • boredom.is.me
    replied
    Thanks for the input IRB. The SF rep here just mentioned that they will be doing some updates based on feedback (and major quality control issues) from here. I'm curious to see where they go and how long it will take.

    I designed a cap bank last night. It fits the shape of the hull and can fit between the carbon stands for the motor mount. Those are 4mm bullets with standard 1000uf caps.
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