32" hotr 90+mph

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • LarrysDrifter
    replied
    Not to get off the subject too far-pipe insulation is MUCH better than pool noodles. A friend of mine ran his new mono for the first time today and has floatation in the hull and none for the hatch. Guess what he lost?
    Keith,if you go to the pool this summer,take pool noodle and pipe insulation with you."Sit" on both in the water(you know what Im talking about)for a few minutes.Stand up and wring each out,one at a time and see which holds the most water.

    Leave a comment:


  • keithbradley
    replied
    Originally posted by Fluid View Post
    I didn't care at all how the hardware handled, most of these narrow cats suck at turns anyway. For straightline racing it was unbeatable, the best I ever used and I used a LOT of strut/rudder combos. Howard's experience here mirrors my own.

    I cannot understand how you guys are losing your boats when just the hatch comes off. Don't you know about flotation? The only race boat I've ever 'lost' was a wood-on-foam cat which broke apart in an 80mph crash. I recovered the sponsons and the deck, but it spit the guts out over 20 yards of lake. No more wooden SAW boats for me.



    .
    In my case, I ran out of pool noodle and didnt put any in my new build. Didnt think I would need it, but of course it turns out to be the one time I really did. Luckily the front of the boat was air tight and it stayed afloat. In this craphole I live in, they only sell pool noodles about 4 months out of the year. The rest of the time you have to buy pipe insulation

    Leave a comment:


  • Fluid
    replied
    I didn't care at all how the hardware handled, most of these narrow cats suck at turns anyway. For straightline racing it was unbeatable, the best I ever used and I used a LOT of strut/rudder combos. Howard's experience here mirrors my own.

    I cannot understand how you guys are losing your boats when just the hatch comes off. Don't you know about flotation? The only race boat I've ever 'lost' was a wood-on-foam cat which broke apart in an 80mph crash. I recovered the sponsons and the deck, but it spit the guts out over 20 yards of lake. No more wooden SAW boats for me.



    .

    Leave a comment:


  • LarrysDrifter
    replied
    My Drifter L had the same FD strut/offset rudder assembly when it was single drive.(Mine was blue,not girl purple)JK. It pulled to the right constantly. Only one of the last times I ran it did I finally get it to track straighter.

    Leave a comment:


  • keithbradley
    replied
    Originally posted by Fluid View Post
    The insane mount is very nice, I run it on my FE-30. But it does not lend itself to mounting on the small hull extension on many of these cats like the HOTR, etc. due to the way it mounts with two laterally aligned bolts. It would work great on the MeanMachine though.

    The J&G/FDM strut/rudder combo like the one on Howard's boat is very good, I used it on several SAW cats of mine. I tried the rudder on both sides and liked on the right best.
    Yeah, but its purple

    I had that same setup on my bittburger cat. It handled ok, but still not as good a seperate strut/rudder setup. Seemed like the rudder was too far back and created a lot of the same issues as inline rudders, just not as bad.



    Leave a comment:


  • keithbradley
    replied
    Originally posted by Howard Lee View Post
    I was talking with Benjamin with fightercatracing.com to see if he could come up with a strut/rudder that has a offset and is a 1 piece. This is a MUST for a single motor setup. I would get with him on the details. Also i was talking with him about a way to lock the hatch down, this is also a must for making high speed runs. I lost my 1st 32 from a high speed flip and only having tape holding the hatch down. Yes, a new boat with only 2min of run time sunk, a very expensive lesson. .
    I agree on both points. I used to avoid hatch locks because its just another place to leak water in, but after a couple of lost hatches in high speed crashes, I think the trade off is well worth it. I ALMOST lost my 32" cat last week when just that happened. I did loose an esc in the process but got the boat and the hatch back. When I returned home I had made the desicion to put hatch locks on every one of my boats.

    I run the inline strut/rudder on my 32" fightercat and I think its simple design is great for sport boating, but as you said as power and RPM go up it starts causing issues. Im running a 40mm prop on my cat and still have a lot of torque roll/torque steer. A one piece offset strut/rudder combo would be very nice.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fluid
    replied
    The insane mount is very nice, I run it on my FE-30. But it does not lend itself to mounting on the small hull extension on many of these cats like the HOTR, etc. due to the way it mounts with two laterally aligned bolts. It would work great on the MeanMachine though.

    The J&G/FDM strut/rudder combo like the one on Howard's boat is very good, I used it on several SAW cats of mine. I tried the rudder on both sides and liked on the right best.

    Leave a comment:


  • ray schrauwen
    replied
    I think Insane Boats makes a nice Billet machined one piece offset strut rudder....

    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Howard Lee
    replied
    I got out for some testing and no luck with props. Fluid was right the 2047 has a lot of lift, i adjusted my prop angle to 5.3 and it started to look better. I just stopped right there, I'm not going to offset 1 thing to make another thing work. I like the abc (1.9 1.8/2) prop if there is someone that can set this prop up for me. I was talking with Benjamin with fightercatracing.com to see if he could come up with a strut/rudder that has a offset and is a 1 piece. This is a MUST for a single motor setup. I would get with him on the details. Also i was talking with him about a way to lock the hatch down, this is also a must for making high speed runs. I lost my 1st 32 from a high speed flip and only having tape holding the hatch down. Yes, a new boat with only 2min of run time sunk, a very expensive lesson. I said i will made a vid of this 32 at 100mph and i will, just waiting on the right prop. Looks like the props cater to hydros.

    Leave a comment:


  • Howard Lee
    replied
    Originally posted by Fluid View Post



    .....
    Just teasing with you.

    Leave a comment:


  • yiyito
    replied
    Originally posted by Howard Lee View Post
    The 1st thing i would do is set the prop angle to 3.0 mm and then adjust your batteries to were the boat rides good. When you get the bow to have a hop then move the batteries a 1/4 forward until the hop is gone. Before going with a bigger prop you need your setup right or you will just pull more amps then you need to. You should do 60 with no problem. When i started i had that same setup and run 60 but i don't remember what prop i used, i have 15 props and many test runs. I would say try a x442 and check your speed. If you have problems with steering you might want to think about a offset rudder.

    Ok my friend thanks for the tips

    Leave a comment:


  • Fluid
    replied



    .....

    Leave a comment:


  • Howard Lee
    replied
    Get mad let it all out

    Leave a comment:


  • Fluid
    replied
    What most do not realize is that a part the roostertail is hitting that rudder, pushing the transom to the right and helping to counteracting prop walk. I got this tip many years ago from Ed Hughey, who set many many FE records.

    A fast boat is not just a lot of voltage, a high Kv motor and a big prop. It is a system of many interrelated parts working together. Most folks don't understand or appreciate that.


    .

    Leave a comment:


  • Howard Lee
    replied
    Originally posted by Fluid View Post
    Two 'secrets' to help a cat get going very fast....


    .
    Yes your right BUT!! I was giving a hint but i will just tell you. Forget about the rudder and think just how a boat rides. If 1 side rides deeper you will get more resistance on that side, its will cause a pull. Now you are trimming your rudder to make up for the pull = lower speeds. Set the rudder straight with the hull and balance from side to side. This is for 1 motor setups. It will take all the things i have talked about to make the boat go straight on full throttle.
    Last edited by Howard Lee; 03-25-2011, 11:54 AM.

    Leave a comment:

Working...