What did you do to your boat today?

[fweasel]

Just about finished with my Joysway Offshore Infinity project that always seems to get pushed aside for something else. I made a new mounting plate out of carbon for the steering servo and new, larger ESC. I relocated the battery mount rearward and up against the side of the flood chamber. I'll be running a Turnigy 3S 2200mAh battery which gits perfectly. I also cutout a support rib for the right side of the hull to brace the side of the hatch opening that used to deflect easily and cause a leak when the hatch was on. All of the hardware has been remounted. The turn fin was repositioned to be square with the bottom of the hull and the trim tabs were trimmed and raised about 1/16" above the bottom of the transom. I need to make a grommet for the hole where the cooling hose passes through the transom to keep water out and make a very thin seal for the hatch opening. Hope to have it in the water this week.

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[fweasel]

Wanted to share a few pictures of my Stealthwake that I've been working on today. Getting it ready for indoor pool racing next weekend. We're limited to a 2S battery, no larger than a 45mm plastic props, and a max length of 34" offshore style hulls.

I borrowed my Leopard 2850 3580kV motor from my Offshore Infinity and modified the existing motor mount to accept a 25mm hole spacing. While modifying the mount, I realized it was the same mount used in my Zelos 36, funny, but it makes sense that they reuse as many parts as possible. The stock boat uses a 3mm solid shaft so I ordered a 4mm to 3mm brass coupler from Amazon and it spins surprisingly true. The holes are bored dead on to the advertised diameters. The only downside, it shipped with the wrong size grub screws so I had to order some M4 x 3mm stainless flat bottom grub screws from McMaster Carr. They'll be here Monday.

The stock boat uses 1/8" (3.175mm) bore props, but as I mentioned, the solid shaft is actually 3mm. I shimmed the prop shaft behind the drive dog with three wraps of scotch tape. The 1/8" to 3/16" prop adapter not fits snugly with no wobble. Luckily my 3/16" plastic 38mm prop slides right over the adapter with no slop either. I have no idea if 38mm is the right prop as this boat has never been run in this configuration and all the water outside is frozen solid. I've got 32mm, 35mm, 40mm, and 42mm plastic props to use as well if needed. Heats are 3min long, so who knows. Arrover did most of his 2S runs on 45mm sized props, but at a much slower RPM using an 1800kV motor. I'll be spinning faster than he was on 3S, so it seems obvious I need to be smaller than 45mm in diameter.

Finally, the stock rudder was a sloppy mess. I had an unused Speedmaster mini rudder from a Delta Force 26 project that hasn't been started, and it was the perfect size. I centered the mount directly over the existing pushrod hole, marked up the transom, and drilled four new holes. It bolted up easily and I used silicone caulk to seal up the old mounting holes for now. The stock boat has a through hull water pickup under the hull that I'm using for cooling, so the water inlet in the Speedmaster rudder won't be connected to anything for now. I had considered capping it off, but decided to leave it open in the hopes it squirts water straight up like a Yamaha jetski.

It's been covered before that the stock driveline angle is less than optimal for speed, but I'm choosing to do nothing with it for this quick build. The races are not all that serious, so I'm more concerned about making it the full 3min without sinking vs. ride attitude. I had considered raising the stuffing tube exit hole in the transom, but because its a solid shaft, I would have to redo the motor mount inside the hull to match the angle. Too much work. There's another pool event in February, and maybe I'll redo the drive line with a flex cable then.

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[CraigP]

Agreed. I’ll PM you...

[785boats]

Probably best not to get into that discussion in this thread though. But I would like to hear your thinking on it.

[CraigP]

Checked out your build thread, that was great! The vids were good too. There’s some weight dynamics going on with the boat in the turns. It’s screaming a message at me! There was an Unlimited built very similar to this boat.. It had weight transfer issues.

[785boats]

It is an ML Boatworks Winston Eagle Lobster kit that I converted into a canard configuration.
In its true form I understand that it is a very good boat to run. But you'll have to speak to those that have built it properly on that.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...n+Eagle+Canard

[CraigP]

Water test was successful! It’s ready for some lake time... Paul, what kind of hull is in your ID picture? Would that be considered a rigger, Hydro? It looks like a four-point hybrid, very nice! I would love to mount the batteries in those sponsons, get that weight spread out... is this a kit you could recommend to me?

[785boats]

Luckily the boat landed upside down (downside up at this end of the world) So there was hardly any water in it.

Nice work on the hatch. I dare say that the waterfall test will be 100% successful.

[CraigP]

Sealed Hatch Vover for DF29

Yesterday I finally built the sealing into the hatch for my DF29 Mono. This was the only boat left that needed hatch tape, which I seem to have a pet peave about. The problem has been that the hatch cover is very flimsy. The boat is thin too... So I had the build a re-in forcing frame around the outside of the hatch cover, so it won’t bend. You need uniform pressure around the closed cell foam rubber for it to work. I built the frame out of light weight basswood, marine epoxied it in, then sealed with clear coat. The adhesive on the tape is pretty weak stuff, so I augment the bond by applying rubber contact cement first. The hold downs are 6-32 blind nuts with the darts bent back flat. I made some plates to fixture the nuts in and give more glueing area for retention. Now it needs the bathtub test with the “waterfall”!

[CraigP]

So the impact broke the motor shaft? If that’s the case, then I’d say very tough boat! Did your boat sink?

[785boats]

If you can't get a rotor let me know. I might have a Leo rotor that might fit.

Thanks ray. I'll keep that in mind.

Craig.
It was definitely a solid hit.
The underside of the sponsons you see in the pics are only painted with aluminium paint.
Here's a picture of the top side, and the sponson of the ML Boatworks kit that speared it. Tough boats aren't they.

[CraigP]

Bath tub test :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Come on, hit the throttle! Isn’t there a little voice that would like to? That thought runs across my mind every time I set one in the tub. Do you do the “waterfall test”? BTW, you’re boat is beautiful!

[CraigP]

Yowzers! That’s a nuger whampie there! I’ve never seen a motor shaft break, looks like shear carnage... looking at your pics, do you have aluminum skins on your sponsons? I put aluminum on my hydro too! You don’t see that very often either

**This is response to the pics posted of the hydro with the broken motor shaft thread #120**

[ray schrauwen]

If you can't get a rotor let me know. I might have a Leo rotor that might fit.

[785boats]

Actually guys I did send Joe at RCBB an email asking if he can get one. Just waiting to hear back from him.