New Hydromite Build

[tgm10]

I used a Hitec HS81 servo with mine, It has ample torque and I also used a Spektrum micro receiver. You could get away with the receiver that comes with the radio but the servo is to big and over kill for what you need.

[Meniscus]

I wasn't aware that epoxy could be dissolved by solvents.

What did you use?

Also>

Most hobby poxy can be de-bonded with heat. If you are trying to pull out a stuffing tube or something similar, you can heat the tube carefully w/ a torch (butane or propane) and it should pull right out.

turpentine, gas, nail polish remover, acetone, engine degreaser, fire, rubbing alcohol, mouthwash, 151, lighter fluid, paint remover, varnish remover...

you know, just about anything I can get my hands on. Oh, and a serrated knife! J/K kids

[Avanti]

check my build threads for servo info

[JimClark]

HS 81 is more than enough it works great on my 1/16th scale as well

[Basstronics]

Gary,

Im about to start building my hulls. Im looking at hardware and I see you bought the stuff Ive been eyeing.

Can you tell me more about that strut? Does it have lead teflon bearing in it? If so what size prop shaft? If not whats the bore on it?

I want to use 1/8" Prop shaft not some funky metric stuff.

[Avanti]

I used .098 flex shaft with 1/8 prop shaft on my build, all Octura parts. part # OC4STR-CDA kit comes with almost everything you will need except for the brass tube

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ight=hydromite

[Basstronics]

I have already built the home made hardware. I also have the lead teflon bearings, prop shafts, drive dogs, nuts and such for 1/8" shaft.

Im hesitant to use the home made hardware as these are laser cut boats.

I built a hydromite hull a few years back and never finished it (got laid off).

Now I got 2 in progress and a BBY MTH hydro almost done...

Just need batts, .098" cable and I think the r2hobbies hardware

[ace028]

Any updates? I'm living vicariously through your build as I am still waiting for my dad to help lay some color on mine lol

[stablgr]

I've got an Octura 1/8" prop shaft and 0.098" flex cable. I'm looking at running the flex cable and teflon liner through some 3/16" brass tube.

The strut I have has a 3/16" id at one end (with the tapered brass insert where the flex shaft enters) and approx 7/32" id at the prop end (where there is no brass sleeve ???). Looks like I'll be able to use the Octura OC4LTS bearing at the the shaft end and probably also at the prop end, but I'll have to make up a sleeve insert to carry the teflon bearing.
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Hope this makes sense!!

I'm slowly progressing with the build. I sealed the inside surfaces with a couple of coats of polyurethane varnish then filled the voids with some foam for buoyancy. (Don't tell the kids where the blue noodle went!) then fitted the sponson decks. Hopefully today I'll get the remainder of the rear sponsons sheeted, after filling with more blue noodle foam.

[Avanti]

The teflon goes right inside the 3/16 brass it does not need and extra sleeve.
The next size down brass (sorry I can't remember the size) fits perfectly inside the 3/16 for a prop shaft bushing. There is no need for a bushing at the motor end of the drive tube, if you put one there I doubt you could get it lined up perfectly with the motor shaft, and this would cause driveline issues.
The build looks great, keep up the good work.

[Basstronics]

Well thats sounds promising then.

Looking good.

[stablgr]

The bore through the strut for the propshaft is not consistent. It's 3/16" at one end (motor end) and steps up to 7/32" at the other (prop) end. I was thinking of inserting a sleeve in the larger diameter end so I can fit the 3/16 Octura bearings at both ends.

Or is there some other way to get this strut to work with my other hardware?

[Basstronics]

I hate to say this, but I was looking at the OSE store and seen the harware there seems to be the same as what R2 has listed?

If so they are calling out a 6mm bore through= .236"

If I go with this hardware I will ream the strut for a standard size 1/8" I think.

[stablgr]

looks like one end is around 6mm or 7/32" but the other the motor end is certainly a smaller bore (at least on the one I have) around 5mm or 3/16". I've only measured these with a ruler as the battery on my vernier died.

So maybe I could ream it out to 1/4" then get appropriate bearings. Do you know if Octura do a teflon bearing 1/4" od x 1/8" id?

[Basstronics]

Again from the OSE store specs they are saying to use a boca bearing #(2) pn# boca-mstrutb 6mm x 3mm bearing.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...mcr-mhd&cat=69

At any rate you will need to have 2 bearings in there somewhere. Does the brass piece press out? Im sure it does. put a bearing through that side and the brass cone will set bearing depth. Or from the open end seat the bearing against the brass piece then the other bearing right at the end of the strut.

*** Edit***

McMaster part # 7804K124 will work for 3mm prop shafts. just an FYI. Its also double shielded and stainless steel so no rust