New Hydromite Build

[Avanti]

I was thinking of the motor end of the drive tube not needed a bearing. I just realized you were speaking of the strut itself. Yes it will need support at both ends of the strut. Can you post some pics of your parts (similar to the pic I posted of mine, post #51).

[stablgr]

Here's what I have.

Strut Hardware.jpg

I was thinking of removing the tapered brass insert with the smaller id then inserting a 7/32" brass tube sleeve with wall thickness to accept the Octura 3/16" x 1/8" bearings. But I'm open to suggestions.

[Basstronics]

Looks right to me. The brass piece in front of strut accepts the brass stuffing tube.

Push your bearings from the back side on in.

I would go with ball bearings if you can. Probably will need to ream to 1/4". You will want a shop to do this for you vs trying to use a hand drill which will be way off.

I would use McMaster #57155K365 bearings...

[Dr. Jet]

Be careful when putting bearings in that strut. With the propshaft you have shown, you will need 0.125” (or 3.2 mm) inside diameter bearings/bushings. As far as I know, the standard bushings/replacement bearings for that strut are 3 mm inside diameter. I believe the outside diameter of the bushings that fit that strut are 6 mm.

The problem is: Where do you find bushings/bearings that are 6 mm x 3.2 mm? Octura makes a 1/8” strut that will work and so does Fuller’s (you have to ask Ray Fuller about them, they are not listed on his website). Buying a different strut may be easier and cheaper than trying to re-machine the one you have.

[Basstronics]

as Jet pointed out you probably wont find a bearing with Imperial bore and metric OD.

I have to disagree with him on the machining portion. That nose cone is pressed in. Press it out and a shop can put a .250" reamer through there no problem for you. Should be a nice tight ream also with a 6mm current hole.

Not something I would try by hand though. This is best done in a lathe and indicating the length portion so the ream runs true.

[Dr. Jet]

If you ream it all the way through to 0.250", then you have to make a new nose piece as well. I can do that stuff in my shop and it is not a big deal. But if you don't have a lathe, then you are looking at paying a machine shop to do the work. Easy enough, but they may charge more than the price of a new unit.

[Basstronics]

If you ream it all the way through to 0.250", then you have to make a new nose piece as well. I can do that stuff in my shop and it is not a big deal. But if you don't have a lathe, then you are looking at paying a machine shop to do the work. Easy enough, but they may charge more than the price of a new unit.

That brass has to be pushed in, push it out.

True enough about having to pay someone to do it. I guess Im just accustomed to having such things at my disposal.

[Dr. Jet]

Here's a link to a photo on Fuller's website showing the 1/8" shaft strut:

http://www.drcwebservices.com/ffe/images/mirhardware.jpg

[Dr. Jet]

That brass has to be pushed in, push it out.

The brass nose piece has a 6 mm O.D. where it is pushed into the strut. Ream the strut out, and the nose piece (that you pushed out before the ream-job) will be as tight as a $2 prostitute.

[stablgr]

I'm going to try and use what I have for now. If it doesn't work out I'll probably bite the bullet and just buy an Octura or Fuller strut.

But for now I'm going to try putting a 7/32" brass sleeve in the prop end of the strut to reduce the id then insert a couple of Ocutra bearings spaced apart with a short length of 3/16" brass tube. I'll probably epoxy the 7/32" sleeve in the strut.

Hopefully this diagram might give you a better idea of what I mean.

Drive hardware mods.jpg

[Dr. Jet]

You may be on to something there. The 7/32" tubing is 0.0175" smaller in outside diameter than the 6 mm hole. You could easily fill that with JB weld or something similar, but you need to keep an eye on alignment. Then your sketch would work like a champ.

[stablgr]

Any ideas where I can get a coupler that will go from the Octura 098 flex shaft to the Mystery motor shaft. (I think its 2.3mm dia)

[Basstronics]

I intend to use the Auqacraft Mini Rio coupler nd drill the side out 3/32" for the flex cable.

Its the proper size for the motor shaft. and the couplers on $2.25 or so.

[Avanti]

the minicatracing coupler will work, you will just need to slightly open the end for the 098 cable.

[stablgr]

I thought I read somewhere that OSE also supplied something suitable, but all I could find was this:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=ose-str-ci

and the dimensions don't match up to what I need

DO you have a part number or a link to the mini cat racing coupler?