Raptor Rigger Build

[Chuck E Cheese]

i am just a pond basher, i run on a much smaller course so i dont know the answer to that. you will just have to test and see.

[detox]

Would 3600mah be enough capacity to run a race? I wonder how many laps using 3600 packs?


...

[Chuck E Cheese]

i have been running 1 3600 mah pack in my jae rigger with ul-1 motor and esc with no problems. this is running right above 50 mph in 20+ mph winds and fairly calm water. i get about 3 minutes and use just under 3000mah with a modified h-7 or m545. this is a light load and amp draw, tempatures are under 110 degrees (dont worry, bigger prop is ready for testing). to tell you the truth my rigger doesnt seem to care that i use lighter packs. i can not tell the difference between the 3600 and 5000 mah packs, however the battery tempature is higher with the 3600's (about 115 degrees vs 105). according to the manufacture the difference in weight is 5 ounces (142 grams).

[detox]

I am trying to save weight and build this rigger as light as possible (only one coat of Krylon paint). I wonder if a lighter weight 3600mah lipo will have enough capacity? I will post more pictures very soon.

[detox]

FYI Aquacraft has recently improved the UL-1 esc. A new giant 35 volt 1500 capacitor replaces the smaller 25 volt 650 capacitor.

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=12373


...

[detox]

For extra support around booms I epoxied G10 fiberglass washers to the outside of hull. I cut these washer shaped pieces of G10 using 1" hole saw. Potruding brass tubing will be ground down flush. Hull is now ready for filler and paint.

[detox]

For motor mount I am using a piece of 1/8" G10 fiberglass. I attached it to hull using Devcon 2 ton epoxy. Tomorrow I will apply more epoxy to mount it more secure. 3/8" holes were drilled for routing wires and tubing.

[detox]

After setting up AOA and ride height I epoxied 1/8" G10 fiberglass to secure booms to hull (NO adjustment) . Booms are a slip fit inside 13/32" brass tube, but will be drilled and bolted thru to secure them. I will grind off ends of brass tubes so they will be even with outside of hull. Sponsons are not glued to booms yet.

This simple jig that I built using MDF board and scrap makes my job lots easier and very accurate.

[detox]

I think most everyone will be using the UL-1 motor/esc in P-spec class. Replace the UL-1 connectors with 6.5 bullets and add one extra 25v 1500 capacitor to esc. Speeds should be between 55-65mph. I know nothing about props, but I have a few that I will try. At first I will get the boat to go fast using a smaller size prop (40-42mm) to start off with then I will go bigger (43-47mm). I will use the Eagletree to check for the dreaded large voltage spikes.

[Chuck E Cheese]

what is "p-spec" hydro class??? what kind of speed are you getting out of these riggers?
i am getting ready to dive into the jae 21fe and looking for tips on powering it. i am not a racer and will be using cc240 and 5000mah 30c 4s. i am worried about space, i think 36mm can is as large as will fit but wondering if i should just set it up as a ul-1 motor or would something like 6 or 7xl be a good choice. also what size props are you guys running on these riggers

[detox]

Nice car! I allways did like the 69 Chevelle.

Summitracing's catalized urethane primer/surfacer and urethane paint is what I used last time I painted a hull. This catalized urethane primer shrinks very little if any compaired to the lacquer type primers.

[T.C.]

I would suggest going to an Automotive paint supply store and buying some good filler.
You can buy it in small quantities that will adhere to the type of material you boat is made of, and it will be a very fine texture and sand easy.
I have used the lacquer type fillers and even the high build lacquer primers before and after a few weeks they seem to have alot of shrinkage.
I painted the hood on my 69 Chevelle and used lacquer high build primer, looked perfect after the primer was sanded, looked perfect after the Base coat clear coat was applied.
One month later I could see every stroke I made with the sanding block.
It's like it just shrunk up and went away ?
Very costly mistake as the Dupont BC/CC is not cheep, probably cost me $400. to reprime and repaint the hood.
Ya may even look a Summit auto parts , they carry paints in small quantities.
Hope this helps?
T.C.

[detox]

Probably be helpful to many here if you guys would give a little how to on the best way to prep boats like this for paint...

For minor pin holes I use red lacquer spot puddy. After priming I apply this puddy using my finger tip to small low spots and holes. Let puddy dry, then sand. Then spray primer again. You can purchase the Bondo brand in a tube at most any autoparts store.

Here is a tip Brian told me about while I was building my SS21. For lots of pin holes use dry wall spackling paste. Prep hull by cleaning then sanding. Smear paste on entire hull by hand, wipe off excess, let dry, sand off excess, then spray primer. For large holes and imperfections I use micro balloons mixed with finishing epoxy before using the spackling paste.

When painting hull be sure to use the same brand primer and paint to prevent pealing when hatch tape is removed. I like regular Krylon primer and paint. If using automotive type paint be sure to use their matching recomended primer to prevent pealing.


...


...

[andym]

It was just a thought for the guys that are happier with the ARR type of build. I did not mind at all and have filling pin holes down to a fine art.I use a stop putty and scrapper then sand then a high build primer, then sand and paint. No problems

[Darin Jordan]

The pin holes in my unfinished Raptor Rigger are VERY minor when compaired to my unfinished Phil Thomas SS21 hull.


...

Probably be helpful to many here if you guys would give a little how to on the best way to prep boats like this for paint...