EDIT: Because of tight fit, I decided not to use the Black OSE water jacket.
I had to sand the inside edge of the OSE water jacket larger so it would fit over the UL-1 motor. This jacket is a very tight fit using the supplied O rings. I have yet to get it to slide over UL-1 motor without damaging them. I will try to find some thinner O rings.
Raptor Rigger Build
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Ten years ago and more we worried about reducing the boat's weight as much as possible due to low power and high cell weight, and some used aluminum fasteners, etc. What we found was - a lighter boat, a lighter pocketbook - but no difference in performance on the water. Reliability is far more important than an ounce or three of weight difference. Far better to add weight as a structural feature than to band-aid on some lead. Two identical boats, one two ounces lighter than the other - the race always goes to the better driver/more reliable boat.There are lots of ways to make it lighter, aluminum bolts and locknuts, carbon fiber turnfin bracket, wire drive, etc... Weight can be added to critical areas using stick on lead weight if needed.
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Brian, I am very happy you answered that question.Originally posted by raptor347 View PostHere are a few others:
ABC H-10 cupped up to 3.9 (probably my favorite)
ABC 1816
1450 with lots of work
It's looking good.
P.S. just use the water jacket.
I have the H10 also.
...Last edited by detox; 03-12-2010, 02:09 AM.
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Here are a few others:
ABC H-10 cupped up to 3.9 (probably my favorite)
ABC 1816
1450 with lots of work
It's looking good.
P.S. just use the water jacket.
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LOTS of prop testing must be done first. I have a custom GrimRacer L42 X 66 that has been cupped to 3.6"...I hope it's fast.
Any other good prop suggestions?
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Looking good Keith.
You've been romancing her for quite a while. It's time to marry her and bring her to the pond!!!

Doug
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Just for fun, when I disassembled my 32" WildThing P-Mono that once held the 2-Lap record, I weighed JUST the mounting hardware (screws, nuts, etc...).... 1.8oz! THEN, I weighed all the velcro I used in it... another 2oz!
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Darin, I have that exact same jacket. I may use it .
There are lots of ways to make it lighter, aluminum bolts and locknuts, carbon fiber turnfin bracket, wire drive, etc... Weight can be added to critical areas using stick on lead weight if needed.
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i agree with darin, if you are looking to save a couple grams do things like ditch the servo mount in favor of double side servo tape, loose the connectors on the pushrods in favor of a z bend, see the brass tube on the pushrod seal, out. those bolts are too tong on the hardware as well. all that will give you the weight savings of the difference in a coil and the black cooling jacket....
i think you are being a little too critical about the weight. there is no need to go drilling holes in the rudder bracket to save a gram.
just my $0.02 you have a beautiful build going, dont sacrafice what is important for grams. i am not saying build it heaver, just watch out what you save weight on
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Ummmm... Please consider... a few grams of weight doesn't mean a thing if the motor doesn't stay cool, and cooling coils can't come anywhere NEAR the cooling provided by water directly on the can...Originally posted by detox View PostNext I will make the cooling coil for motor (lighter weight than jacket). Anything to make boat lighter.
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If the standard OSE cooling jackets are too heavy for you, then consider something like this: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ose-mjacket
I run this on my BJ motors, and they are SUPER light... and very effective.
Don't sacrifice longevity and performance for a few grams of weight. You do NOT have a shortage of power with these setups...
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Yea...this build is taking longer than I wanted it to.
Next I will make the cooling coil for motor (lighter weight than jacket). Anything to make boat lighter.
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3600 mAh should be enough capacity for a one mile race. My LSH with UL-I motor uses between 2500 and 2800 mAh for six laps on the big course.
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I copied Brian's servo holder. I cut the Maple wood pieces using table saw. Here I am test fitting before glueing wood to hull. Aquacraft rubber boot (AQUB9503) will be glued onto 11/32" brass tube using clear silicone.
Servo being used is a Hi Tech Mighty Mini HS-225MGAttached FilesLast edited by detox; 03-11-2010, 04:14 PM.
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