I hit a wave and cracked my right hand sponson. So I had to fiberglass then repaint sponson. I also changed color to Black. I purchased two new Fiberglass sponsons from Raptor Marine, but I will not install them until the originals fail.
Here's my new ETTI 2mm collet for .078 drive wire. Motor plate is epoxied to hull using JB weld. I applied the JB epoxy using syringe.
Boat is fast using regular S-15, but testing has been slow because of lake weeds and job.
Raptor Rigger Build
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Originally posted by detox View PostI discovered that my motor shaft was bent.
I wonder what caused this? I ordered a replacement UL-1 motor from OSE.
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I would contact Tower and let them know. They can't fix it if they don't know about it.... Just my $0.02
Later
Mike
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Somebody dropped it in the factory and didn't think the shaft was bent?
Jon
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I discovered that my motor shaft was bent.Originally posted by detox View PostThe Octura style appeared to be machined correctly, but after it was tightened I could see the .078 wire wobble before it went into stuffing tube...what the heck?
I wonder what caused this? I ordered a replacement UL-1 motor from OSE.
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The Octura style appeared to be machined correctly, but after it was tightened I could see the .078 wire wobble before it went into stuffing tube...what the heck!
BTW I found some of the ones you recomended...Thanks.
I may try Loctite with the four screw aluminum versions. I can lubricate inside stuffing tube by dripping oil thru end of stuffing tube without disassebling wire from collet. Heat will have to be used when I remove collet from wire.
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Yup... keep in mind that you are talking to someone now who has 4 of the set-screw style, .078" couplers, and has lost more driveshafts and props with them than any other style... I hate them.Originally posted by detox View PostThanks Darin! Any other tricks?
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So, with that bias in mind... I'd find a better collet style compression coupler. Like maybe this one:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=etti-a073
Or maybe see if Kintec Racing has them...
OR, I'd just get an Octura that is centered. I got two of them from OSE and they work very well in my 1/10th scale and my Raptor Hydro...
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Make sure you put flats on the wire if you are going to use these couplers...Originally posted by detox View PostMy Octura .078 wire drive collet did not hold wire centered, so I ordered two of the aluminum versions from OSE. These are lighter in weight also.
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Boat handled great, but seemed stern heavy, so I moved COG slightly forward by moving motor, servo, and compartment devider forward 1". COG is now 4" behind sponsons. This motor configuration will also house the Nue 1415 1y.
My Octura .078 wire drive collet did not hold wire centered, so I ordered two of the aluminum versions from OSE. These are lighter in weight also.Attached FilesLast edited by detox; 04-08-2010, 04:24 PM.
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Trying something different. Although not easy, the epoxied pieces were easier to break free from hull than I thought.Attached Files
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Oh Yea. The prop was a plain Jane ABC S-15, with evened out pitch and cup. Diameter of S-15 is actually smaller than my H-7 (46.15 vs. 47.59). My H-10 measures 44.06.
I wonder if the S-20 would work? Since ESC with a max of 125 amps is legal I may try.
...Last edited by detox; 03-24-2010, 06:03 PM.
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Doug, Is 4s2p lipo configuration race legal? Or do you have to run 4s1p in this rigger class?
Yea, I thought 64.7 mph was pretty good using plain Jane prop.
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