The Voracity tuning thread

[kfxguy]

Arrover how are the motor temps on 6s with the 1730kv? On leopard site it says maximum voltage for that motor is 20v. Just curious if you pushing that motor too hard on 6s

He may. It's almost 40k rpm. I suspect it may hold up if he's not at full throttle the whole time and always running it like that. The issue I've found with long motors and high rpm is the rotor shaft flexes because of length. I had one setup with a neu 1521 (even shorter motor) I was tuning serious rpm and you could see where the rotor was contacting the stator. I kid you not. This was a 50k rpm setup that I ran a lot. I didn't have a failure because I caught it beforehand. I now run 8mm shafts in everything that I can if it's fairly long. Not trying to scare you buddy, just want you to be aware. I think you'll be fine on 6s for a while but I'd take the rotor out after a couple runs and see how it's looks. You'll notice if it's contacting. If it is, pm me and I'll tell you what motor to get next that is cheap and will make that boat fly.

[kfxguy]

Btw, I was in the shop last night and totally forgot to take pics of the hatch. My son is out of school today, I'll get him to send me some.

[arrover]

Thanks for the info on the hatch strengthening. I should have said that last night.

I did see the 20v rating on this motor before I bought it but decided to try it anyway. We'll see what happens. I'll be sure to keep you guys updated. I haven't run it enough to be able to give you any good data but I will as soon as I have time. I will probably reduce the timing to 0 and try that. Thanks!

[kfxguy]

Thanks for the info on the hatch strengthening. I should have said that last night.

I did see the 20v rating on this motor before I bought it but decided to try it anyway. We'll see what happens. I'll be sure to keep you guys updated. I haven't run it enough to be able to give you any good data but I will as soon as I have time. I will probably reduce the timing to 0 and try that. Thanks!

Here's what I do and I've had no issues doing this:

Sf escs with auto timing feature, d or y wind I set to auto. It's faster that way. (Speed wise) and motor runs cooler
Other esc's: d wind I set to 0 usually and no more than 2. Y winds in run 7-15 degrees. If your over on your timing, the motor and esc may run hot or hotter than normal. I would not continue running it this way. That motor should not get hot or even very warm pushing this boat.

[kfxguy]

This is what I did at the pins and bolt. I also added two layers of black fiberglass not shown

[arrover]

Thanks for the timing info and the hatch pics!

I had an extremely short amount of time to run the boat tonight right before it was totally dark. Probably not the best to be running in such low light but I hadn't been able to use the boat in a few days and I wanted to try it. I set the timing to 0 last night. I tried a ABC 1817 prop first and got 54.6mph BUT the SeaKing 180 esc went into protection mode about 2/3rds down the very first pass. Since I had such little light left I put on a ABC 1916 and it ran 55.4mph and it also went into protection mode 2/3rds of the way through it's first pass. I have the ESC low voltage cutoff set at 3.4V (the same as the stock ESC). Could the cells be drawn down under that in one run and then recover between runs? My wires are still long and I think I may need a capacitor bank. Are there any cap banks that are "plug and play"? I've still got a lot of testing to do but the strange thing is that I had less problems with the stock ESC. No temp readings because there wasn't time for things to get hot. I almost didn't post this but I figured someone might need the info if they are thinking of buying a new motor/esc.

[paulfromtulsa]

Thanks for the timing info and the hatch pics!

I had an extremely short amount of time to run the boat tonight right before it was totally dark. Probably not the best to be running in such low light but I hadn't been able to use the boat in a few days and I wanted to try it. I set the timing to 0 last night. I tried a ABC 1817 prop first and got 54.6mph BUT the SeaKing 180 esc went into protection mode about 2/3rds down the very first pass. Since I had such little light left I put on a ABC 1916 and it ran 55.4mph and it also went into protection mode 2/3rds of the way through it's first pass. I have the ESC low voltage cutoff set at 3.4V (the same as the stock ESC). Could the cells be drawn down under that in one run and then recover between runs? My wires are still long and I think I may need a capacitor bank. Are there any cap banks that are "plug and play"? I've still got a lot of testing to do but the strange thing is that I had less problems with the stock ESC. No temp readings because there wasn't time for things to get hot. I almost didn't post this but I figured someone might need the info if they are thinking of buying a new motor/esc.

Were your batteries fully charged when it went into lvc? That motor can pull a lot of volts while in full throttle . When i had that combo in mySpartan it hit lvc very early. When i was monitoring the voltage it would pull the voltage from 3.8v per cell to 3.4 under full acceleration. I finally had set the lvc to 3.0 to get more run time. When the boat hit lvc the actually voltage of the batteries were around 3.3v. Hope this helps

[kfxguy]

I'm down for the count. I reinforced my hatch. I guess it was so much stiffer that it broke the hull. It broke the pin holes in the front and then ripped a big chunk out the back. I was just about to order a motor for it. Not sure what I'm going to do at this point. It's way too much work to fix and I can't afford another hull. Ultimately my fault, had I taped it down it likely wouldn't have done that. That's what I get for being lazy. Was only going 36-38mph and I was in some rough water. I guess it was the perfect hit. Bummer.

[arrover]

Dang that is a bummer. Really sorry to hear that.

Thanks for the info Paul. Yes the batteries should have been fully charged but maybe I screwed up my charging sequence and didn't actually charge them. I doubt it but I'm going to retry when I'm not so pressed for time. If it happens again I'll probably lower the LVC and test it.

[paulfromtulsa]

Dang that is a bummer. Really sorry to hear that.

Thanks for the info Paul. Yes the batteries should have been fully charged but maybe I screwed up my charging sequence and didn't actually charge them. I doubt it but I'm going to retry when I'm not so pressed for time. If it happens again I'll probably lower the LVC and test it.

If you batteries were fully charged there's no way it would of hit lvc. I would check your voltage next time. If your lvc is set to 3.5 it wouldn't be a surprise if the actual voltage of your batteries were around 3.8 because of the voltage drop under a load

[montymike]

Try putting timing back the way it was,

[arrover]

Thanks guys. When I put the batteries on the charger last night they were around 12.25v and the charger put 750mah back in so I think they were charged before the runs. I'll play with the timing and LVC and get it figured out.

[Darin Jordan]

If you batteries were fully charged there's no way it would of hit lvc. I would check your voltage next time. If your lvc is set to 3.5 it wouldn't be a surprise if the actual voltage of your batteries were around 3.8 because of the voltage drop under a load

I wouldn't be surprised if the v/cell was pulled even lower than that.

What was the temperature of the cells when you put them in the boat?

I didn't see... what cells are you using?

[arrover]

The cells are Turnigy Heavy Duty 3S 5000mah, something like 60-120C. Their starting temp was probably in the 65-70 degree range. I have not had trouble with these batteries in the past, including the first test run with the new motor/ESC and x452 and 1915 props that ran 59.5ish. The props I tried last night should be harder to turn so I'm thinking it's either a voltage drop problem or the 0 degree timing.

[arrover]

Had just a tiny amount of time to test the boat before dark (dang it's getting dark early...). I dropped the low voltage cutoff to 3.2v and the boat ran normally. I ran the same props as last night and the ABC 1916 ran 61.4. The ABC 1817 ran 60.0 on the same batteries, partially depleted. Temps were a little on the high side. It feels like these props are still a little much even with the bigger motor. I'll try some more conservative props next. It's interesting to note that these two props both ran about 10mph faster with the new motor/esc combo.

Motor - 115
ESC - 110
Motor bullets - 160
caps on esc wires - 130
batts 110, 115

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