The best way for boat retreival
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That wouldn't pick up a lipo. A gas turbine helicopter.
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A larger version of this ?Originally posted by Bduncan View PostI still think large scale turbine rc helicopters with a sling are fastest and most efficient way to retrieve boats.
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I still think large scale turbine rc helicopters with a sling are fastest and most efficient way to retrieve boats.
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I would think that the best way is to have someone else get it for you


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Fishing pole and hooks installed on the hull is the way I'm going. I have a pontoon boat also.
rc boat 001.JPGrc boat 002.JPG
I also have on the hatch that I use for lifting from hull.
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I'm working on modifying one of those now. The controller has simple on/off (not proportional) skid-steer control. The receiver and 2-motor controller are a single integrated board. The advertised range is 100 ft, which seems about right based on my testing. I'm rigging it up to work with a receiver and battery I have and a couple of 10-dollar brushed ESCs I ordered from Hobby King.Originally posted by Bduncan View PostYou think this would work with mods.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sadxG-1...oeA&autoplay=1
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You think this would work with mods.
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I didn't mean your rescue craft as "contraption", I meant if anyone had used wireless FPV, wanted to know how far they transmit.
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I'm sure you install a FPV system....expensive. It's easier if you can line up the boat to be rescued between yourself and the "rescue contraption"Originally posted by tlandauer View PostThis is a nice set up, since my sight is so bad, is there any wireless video one can rig up? How is the range on these contraptions? If I can see the image on a remote monitor, then I can line up the fork.
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there are two options here.Originally posted by Cooper View PostAnd one option for those with no roof rack or means of transporting a large cumbersome kayak I have seen the foldable ones. Don't know the $ as I would think a bit pricey. I've seen them with an aluminum frame with a flexible material to go on the outside. And they look very sturdy. I believe they were made/marketed for the back woods explorer. And to be of fairly robust building materials yet light weight and packable. Thus not worrying about pokeing a hole and causing a loss of buoyancy. And not needing power or air inflation device.
1. do what i did. Buy a roof rack on craigslist. with Thule racks, the only thing that differs from car to car is the foot pack. i bought my entire rack on craiglist, then i just went to thule and bought the foot pack to fit my car, and put them into my rack. the new foot pack was around 75 bux, and the roof rack i got for 90 used. a new roof rack, without the foot pack sells for around 300 base model. so i saved quite a bit of money.
2. the other option is to get the cheap foam block kit that straps to your roof. its designed for canoes and such. you can then strap a kayak up there. they're very affordable and do the job fine.
if you research and bargain shop like i do you can get an entire setup roof rack and all for just over the price of a new rtf. truck owners got it easy lol
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This is a nice set up, since my sight is so bad, is there any wireless video one can rig up? How is the range on these contraptions? If I can see the image on a remote monitor, then I can line up the fork.Originally posted by Rocstar22 View Post1300kv Outrunner on 2s2p with 45mm plastic prop. Does not work well if your boat is nose up.

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The kayak is also nice because you pull it out of the water immediately so you limit the exposure to water and corrosion potential that could short out components. I hear too many stories of guys waiting 30 min to a few hours waiting for a boat to drift in, that's only going to allow water to permeate further into the motor and ESC.
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I'm building one simular to this but I'm putting two 69mm EDFs 3850kv outrunners on it with a rudder. I'll post pics when I get it done I think it should work pretty good.Originally posted by Rocstar22 View Post1300kv Outrunner on 2s2p with 45mm plastic prop. Does not work well if your boat is nose up.

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