New Hobby King Cat (Surge Crusher)

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  • Graeme
    replied
    Well I think I am going to give up on the surge flusher for now.
    I took it out to the lake this morning and the drive shaft fell out along with my new metal prop. guess I should have tightened the nut on the shaft hanger better.

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  • FighterCat57
    replied
    Originally posted by hpipro4 View Post
    yea replaced the stock servo when i got the boat. hate using no name brand servos they tend to tweak alot so i slapped on a nano futaba s9550 frm my tc5.

    looks like ill be using my castle bec then!

    oh by the way when you reinforced the motor mount, did you use epoxy or resin?
    I used actual fiberglass bondo resin. I would imagine a good epoxy wold reinforce the area as well. Just not sure how permanent the bond would be.

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  • hpipro4
    replied
    Originally posted by FighterCat57 View Post
    The T180 has been the most reliable ESC I've owned, although you might consider an external BEC. Less heat created in the ESC. Surprisingly the BEC creates quite a bit of heat.

    The melting is from very high amp setups, I think you'll be ok in this little hull.

    Looks like you've replaced the stock servo. If not, watch out, it overheated a BEC on me and melted the ESC trying to center itself on the bench.
    yea replaced the stock servo when i got the boat. hate using no name brand servos they tend to tweak alot so i slapped on a nano futaba s9550 frm my tc5.

    looks like ill be using my castle bec then!

    oh by the way when you reinforced the motor mount, did you use epoxy or resin?

    Leave a comment:


  • FighterCat57
    replied
    Originally posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    ...and people think I'm a bit nutty for NOT using on board BEC...??? This is good to learn early.
    Yeah, I thought so, until I started learning about heat dissipation on a sealed compartment. The BEC isn't water cooled and tends to get hot under normal use... if over loaded... well... you know the drill. Sucks to loose an $80 ESC because its BEC was overloaded.

    I now factor it in to each project. I'd rather lose a $15 BEC and have separate heat to worry about.

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  • ray schrauwen
    replied
    ...and people think I'm a bit nutty for NOT using on board BEC...??? This is good to learn early.

    Leave a comment:


  • FighterCat57
    replied
    Originally posted by hpipro4 View Post
    haha i know...but love esc tuning lol
    The T180 has been the most reliable ESC I've owned, although you might consider an external BEC. Less heat created in the ESC. Surprisingly the BEC creates quite a bit of heat.

    The melting is from very high amp setups, I think you'll be ok in this little hull.

    Looks like you've replaced the stock servo. If not, watch out, it overheated a BEC on me and melted the ESC trying to center itself on the bench.

    Leave a comment:


  • hpipro4
    replied
    Originally posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    ESC is overkill but, I like that.

    They come programmed properly just setup your throttle & go. The Defaults & auto settings work well I find.
    haha i know...but love esc tuning lol

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  • ray schrauwen
    replied
    ESC is overkill but, I like that.

    They come programmed properly just setup your throttle & go. The Defaults & auto settings work well I find.

    Leave a comment:


  • hpipro4
    replied
    Originally posted by FighterCat57 View Post
    Nicely done!

    Now reinforce the motor mount so it doesn't crack the hull. =)
    If you push on the motor you will see that the hull bottom flexes between the motor and the sponson. This is where it cracks. After what I saw yesterday, it's pretty much a guarantee that it will crack.

    I just used some fiberglass strips and laid them between the mount and the sponson to stiffen the area up. We'll see how it works.

    Again, very well done! I love those T180 ESC's. They can pull enough current to melt Castle 6.5mm bullets on the motor side. Cool stuff. That should be a rock solid setup if the motor doesn't overheat. =)
    thanks! yea for sure i will reinforced the motor mount better after seeing them crack.

    was kinda disappointed about how big the esc was but hope its worth the money. programming it is abit tricky w/o using the programmer they make but got it down quick using the manual n transmitter.

    wow! really they melt 6.5mm bullets? crap!! im using 4mm bullets come stock with the motor. i guess ill give em a try see wat happens.


    Originally posted by Graeme View Post
    very nice what motor you got in that bad boy?
    I should have mine back together tomorrow I hope
    its a turnigy b36-56 2600kv motor http://hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store...idProduct=6527

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff Wohlt
    replied
    I like to epoxy a piece of 3/16 ply down and even wider to disperse the weight to the sponson tunnels but that was on ABS hulls...my MM has it as well.

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  • Graeme
    replied
    very nice what motor you got in that bad boy?
    I should have mine back together tomorrow I hope

    Leave a comment:


  • FighterCat57
    replied
    Nicely done!

    Now reinforce the motor mount so it doesn't crack the hull. =)
    If you push on the motor you will see that the hull bottom flexes between the motor and the sponson. This is where it cracks. After what I saw yesterday, it's pretty much a guarantee that it will crack.

    I just used some fiberglass strips and laid them between the mount and the sponson to stiffen the area up. We'll see how it works.

    Again, very well done! I love those T180 ESC's. They can pull enough current to melt Castle 6.5mm bullets on the motor side. Cool stuff. That should be a rock solid setup if the motor doesn't overheat. =)

    Leave a comment:


  • hpipro4
    replied
    my new setup! still need to do test runs...

    turnigy b36-56 2600kv
    turnigy 180amp esc
    turnigy 2s 7.4v 4000mah 30c
    octura x440





    Last edited by hpipro4; 07-22-2010, 02:36 AM.

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  • FighterCat57
    replied
    Originally posted by GP73 View Post
    Good to know, I was trying to look for water coming out at high speed but that thing was way to fast... :)

    I'll be keeping an eye on your Surge "Flusher" project... You're so mean to her... :)

    I guess I will have to replace the whole drive shaft/strut assembly like you did, I'm going to wait for that kit you mentioned in the build log, any suggestion for a strut replacement from OSE?

    Thanks!
    I *think* the Speedmaster sport 20 will work, but don't have one in hand to verify; http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...Sport-20-strut

    The stock strut will work with a new brass tube and liner as mentioned previously though.
    Last edited by FighterCat57; 07-20-2010, 11:15 AM.

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  • GP73
    replied
    Good to know, I was trying to look for water coming out at high speed but that thing was way to fast... :)

    I'll be keeping an eye on your Surge "Flusher" project... You're so mean to her... :)

    I guess I will have to replace the whole drive shaft/strut assembly like you did, I'm going to wait for that kit you mentioned in the build log, any suggestion for a strut replacement from OSE?

    Thanks!


    Originally posted by FighterCat57 View Post
    Yeah, the rudder pickup works best at speed. 20+ and you should see a nice flow. I just ran mine this morning and there was a good flow coming out.

    Leave a comment:

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