New Hobby King Cat (Surge Crusher)

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  • sailr
    replied
    The strange thing is that the instructions you showed that discusses lubricating the shaft tells you to do just what I said, remove the strut! Oh well.

    I have 5 of their boats. They ALL work this way. I have had two of the Surge Crusher boats. They work the same way. I have replacement flexshafts. They are square on both ends. one end slips into the coupler at the motor end and the other end slips into the captive prop shaft. By removing the strut, you can pull the cable out.

    Originally posted by electric View Post
    It is. I had a boat once that has what you are thinking of. This one is very different from that. I first thought it was two piece deal with a square shaft at the strut end going in to a seperate square solid shaft in the strut. This one is not that way. The really wild thing is the work they had to do to mill this slight reduction in the shaft to keep the shaft from falling out of the rear strut of the boat since it is not secured at all going into the collet. I guess they figured they would "solve" the two piece shaft issue, but what they created is just odd.

    The bummer is, if you want to make it "standard" will will have to not only get a new shaft, you will also have to purchase a collet.

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  • electric
    replied
    Could not get to the pond this afternoon. I should be able to run it tomorrow and get some data on the boat.

    Leave a comment:


  • NOZ69R
    replied
    Originally posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    This is where they all come from, these boats that is...

    Here is an upgrade version....



    Should never show me a box that it came in.....lol....
    Does't that look SUPER and crazy fast.

    Cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • ray schrauwen
    replied
    Just replace it, sounds nasty....

    Leave a comment:


  • electric
    replied
    Originally posted by sailr View Post
    Right, it will not go through the strut. You sure the flexshaft isn't square on both ends? One end slips into the coupler, the other end slips into a captive prop shaft. If you will pull the strut, you should be able to pull the prop shaft away from the flexshaft and then remove the flexshaft. How do I know? I had one of these same boats about two years ago.

    What you describe sounds really strange!
    It is. I had a boat once that has what you are thinking of. This one is very different from that. I first thought it was two piece deal with a square shaft at the strut end going in to a seperate square solid shaft in the strut. This one is not that way. The really wild thing is the work they had to do to mill this slight reduction in the shaft to keep the shaft from falling out of the rear strut of the boat since it is not secured at all going into the collet. I guess they figured they would "solve" the two piece shaft issue, but what they created is just odd.

    The bummer is, if you want to make it "standard" will will have to not only get a new shaft, you will also have to purchase a collet.

    Leave a comment:


  • ray schrauwen
    replied
    This is where they all come from, these boats that is...

    Here is an upgrade version....



    Should never show me a box that it came in.....lol....

    Leave a comment:


  • sailr
    replied
    Right, it will not go through the strut. You sure the flexshaft isn't square on both ends? One end slips into the coupler, the other end slips into a captive prop shaft. If you will pull the strut, you should be able to pull the prop shaft away from the flexshaft and then remove the flexshaft. How do I know? I had one of these same boats about two years ago.

    What you describe sounds really strange!

    Leave a comment:


  • electric
    replied
    Originally posted by sailr View Post
    You take the strut off and pull it out the back!
    Chuckle. I dare you too!! What prevents this from happening is there is groove cut in the shaft that prevents it from going through the strut out the back!!!! The reason for this is the shaft at the motor side is not held in by anything. It is a square shaft "floating" inside the collet. Told you it was weird...

    Believe me, I pulled on it hard and thought..hmmm. Then looked at the directions and went out the other way. Once I saw what they had done to the shaft and how it all mounts in there, I was amazed.

    I have dealt with two piece shafts before, but never anything strange as this. Not sure why they keep trying to invent new ways to do this... Someone send them shaft assembly..

    Leave a comment:


  • sailr
    replied
    You take the strut off and pull it out the back!

    Originally posted by electric View Post
    Finished setting up the boat for testing tomorrow. The first thing I am going to do is attempt to describe the drive shaft assembly. Strangest thing I have seen in a while. Here are the facts:
    1. The drive shaft has to be pushed out toward the motor not pulled out.
    2. There is a collet, but it has a hex to screw it to the motor shaft, but the metal drive shaft has a square end and it freefloats inside the collet.
    3. To grease the shaft you will have to take off the entire prop assembly, remove the motor and slide it out foward.
    4. The good news (looking for the positive) is it was already greased and it does appear to work quite smoothly.
    5. Not sure how much grease you would need anyway since it is entirely plastic shaft underneath.
    6. I took a picture of the shaft besides and SV shaft (bottom) and a larger (can't remember the diameter 3/16 I think) shaft above.
    7. The motor did "sound" really smooth and nice and everything armed properly.

    Leave a comment:


  • electric
    replied
    Originally posted by hpipro4 View Post
    hey electric which turnigy lipo are you running?
    2s, 40c, 5000mah. The problem with these batt's is the huge wires come out the side of the lipo and this causes you to need more width. Not the end of the world, but just creates some hassles sometimes.

    Leave a comment:


  • hpipro4
    replied
    hey electric which turnigy lipo are you running?

    Leave a comment:


  • electric
    replied
    Given there is no rain. Tomorrow I will have the data. Speed, Temps, amps..etc...
    The batteries don't fit all that great, but the turnigy's have that issue in most boats. Also, the rudder set up will need some work. It will turn right, but not much to the left. The push rod is binding and will need some work, but ran out of time tonight. Tomorrow I will be sure and only go right, I think I have enough left to counter any torque efffects.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • electric
    replied
    Here is diagram showing the drive shaft has to be pushed foward. By the way the instruction manual is very clear and well done. There are some close ups of the motor as well. Thought I would show you the size difference compared to a UL-1. Also notice the "Shine" coming off of the UL-1 in comparison. The Surge has a dull finish. I also should mention that I float tested it and there were NO leaks.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by electric; 06-24-2010, 10:36 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • electric
    replied
    Finished setting up the boat for testing tomorrow. The first thing I am going to do is attempt to describe the drive shaft assembly. Strangest thing I have seen in a while. Here are the facts:
    1. The drive shaft has to be pushed out toward the motor not pulled out.
    2. There is a collet, but it has a hex to screw it to the motor shaft, but the metal drive shaft has a square end and it freefloats inside the collet.
    3. To grease the shaft you will have to take off the entire prop assembly, remove the motor and slide it out foward.
    4. The good news (looking for the positive) is it was already greased and it does appear to work quite smoothly.
    5. Not sure how much grease you would need anyway since it is entirely plastic shaft underneath.
    6. I took a picture of the shaft besides and SV shaft (bottom) and a larger (can't remember the diameter 3/16 I think) shaft above.
    7. The motor did "sound" really smooth and nice and everything armed properly.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • electric
    replied
    Re-read what I wrote last night(was pretty tired when I wrote it up), but still feel it is pretty accurate assesment. I guess you could say from two feet away it looks like a pretty good boat? I noticed it still looks pretty good in the pictures. Really, for 138 bucks, you get a basic boat, servo, esc, brushless motor, hardware and stand. Still pretty impressive. Now if it just melts down on the first run, not so good a deal. Of course, there is shipping so it is more like 180's. I will get more pics of the motor and do some initial bench testing. Not sure what size the shaft is? How would I measure that? I can take an SV shaft and see how it fits in there...

    On the packaging. Look at the picture. They took the original box and turned it inside out and made it the internal box, and then put a stronger box around that. The deal is there was no gap between the two boxes and almost NO stuffing. I was really surprised it came in one piece.
    Last edited by electric; 06-24-2010, 11:21 AM.

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