Well I think I am going to give up on the surge flusher for now.
I took it out to the lake this morning and the drive shaft fell out along with my new metal prop. guess I should have tightened the nut on the shaft hanger better.
New Hobby King Cat (Surge Crusher)
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I used actual fiberglass bondo resin. I would imagine a good epoxy wold reinforce the area as well. Just not sure how permanent the bond would be.Originally posted by hpipro4 View Postyea replaced the stock servo when i got the boat. hate using no name brand servos they tend to tweak alot so i slapped on a nano futaba s9550 frm my tc5.
looks like ill be using my castle bec then!
oh by the way when you reinforced the motor mount, did you use epoxy or resin?
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yea replaced the stock servo when i got the boat. hate using no name brand servos they tend to tweak alot so i slapped on a nano futaba s9550 frm my tc5.Originally posted by FighterCat57 View PostThe T180 has been the most reliable ESC I've owned, although you might consider an external BEC. Less heat created in the ESC. Surprisingly the BEC creates quite a bit of heat.
The melting is from very high amp setups, I think you'll be ok in this little hull.
Looks like you've replaced the stock servo. If not, watch out, it overheated a BEC on me and melted the ESC trying to center itself on the bench.
looks like ill be using my castle bec then!
oh by the way when you reinforced the motor mount, did you use epoxy or resin?
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Yeah, I thought so, until I started learning about heat dissipation on a sealed compartment. The BEC isn't water cooled and tends to get hot under normal use... if over loaded... well... you know the drill. Sucks to loose an $80 ESC because its BEC was overloaded.Originally posted by ray schrauwen View Post...and people think I'm a bit nutty for NOT using on board BEC...??? This is good to learn early.
I now factor it in to each project. I'd rather lose a $15 BEC and have separate heat to worry about.
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...and people think I'm a bit nutty for NOT using on board BEC...??? This is good to learn early.
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The T180 has been the most reliable ESC I've owned, although you might consider an external BEC. Less heat created in the ESC. Surprisingly the BEC creates quite a bit of heat.Originally posted by hpipro4 View Posthaha i know...but love esc tuning lol
The melting is from very high amp setups, I think you'll be ok in this little hull.
Looks like you've replaced the stock servo. If not, watch out, it overheated a BEC on me and melted the ESC trying to center itself on the bench.
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ESC is overkill but, I like that.
They come programmed properly just setup your throttle & go. The Defaults & auto settings work well I find.
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thanks! yea for sure i will reinforced the motor mount better after seeing them crack.Originally posted by FighterCat57 View PostNicely done!
Now reinforce the motor mount so it doesn't crack the hull. =)
If you push on the motor you will see that the hull bottom flexes between the motor and the sponson. This is where it cracks. After what I saw yesterday, it's pretty much a guarantee that it will crack.
I just used some fiberglass strips and laid them between the mount and the sponson to stiffen the area up. We'll see how it works.
Again, very well done! I love those T180 ESC's. They can pull enough current to melt Castle 6.5mm bullets on the motor side. Cool stuff. That should be a rock solid setup if the motor doesn't overheat. =)
was kinda disappointed about how big the esc was but hope its worth the money. programming it is abit tricky w/o using the programmer they make but got it down quick using the manual n transmitter.
wow! really they melt 6.5mm bullets? crap!! im using 4mm bullets come stock with the motor. i guess ill give em a try see wat happens.
its a turnigy b36-56 2600kv motor http://hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store...idProduct=6527Originally posted by Graeme View Postvery nice what motor you got in that bad boy?
I should have mine back together tomorrow I hope
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I like to epoxy a piece of 3/16 ply down and even wider to disperse the weight to the sponson tunnels but that was on ABS hulls...my MM has it as well.
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very nice what motor you got in that bad boy?
I should have mine back together tomorrow I hope
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Nicely done!
Now reinforce the motor mount so it doesn't crack the hull. =)
If you push on the motor you will see that the hull bottom flexes between the motor and the sponson. This is where it cracks. After what I saw yesterday, it's pretty much a guarantee that it will crack.
I just used some fiberglass strips and laid them between the mount and the sponson to stiffen the area up. We'll see how it works.
Again, very well done! I love those T180 ESC's. They can pull enough current to melt Castle 6.5mm bullets on the motor side. Cool stuff. That should be a rock solid setup if the motor doesn't overheat. =)
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I *think* the Speedmaster sport 20 will work, but don't have one in hand to verify; http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...Sport-20-strutOriginally posted by GP73 View PostGood to know, I was trying to look for water coming out at high speed but that thing was way to fast... :)
I'll be keeping an eye on your Surge "Flusher" project... You're so mean to her... :)
I guess I will have to replace the whole drive shaft/strut assembly like you did, I'm going to wait for that kit you mentioned in the build log, any suggestion for a strut replacement from OSE?
Thanks!
The stock strut will work with a new brass tube and liner as mentioned previously though.Last edited by FighterCat57; 07-20-2010, 11:15 AM.
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Good to know, I was trying to look for water coming out at high speed but that thing was way to fast... :)
I'll be keeping an eye on your Surge "Flusher" project... You're so mean to her... :)
I guess I will have to replace the whole drive shaft/strut assembly like you did, I'm going to wait for that kit you mentioned in the build log, any suggestion for a strut replacement from OSE?
Thanks!
Originally posted by FighterCat57 View PostYeah, the rudder pickup works best at speed. 20+ and you should see a nice flow. I just ran mine this morning and there was a good flow coming out.
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