Help me build Delta Force 26 Overpowered

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  • dana
    Banned
    • Mar 2010
    • 3570

    #1

    Help me build Delta Force 26 Overpowered

    ok so, my wonderful gf got me a df 26 from ose, and my plan is to put a leopard 4074 2200kv in there somehow. i know this sounds ridiculous…
    i recently read a thread from a while back where one member was doing something very similiar with his df. the thread turned into a nightmare, so please, unless you have positive input, dont post =)
    So, what more can be said here… i have the hull and a motor… should i go with stinger or strut? does this boat need trim tabs to go 60+? turn fins? thanks
  • Make-a-Wake
    FE Rules!
    • Nov 2009
    • 5554

    #2
    I have thought of building a little hot rod myself.........in fact I have a Castle 1515 2200kv laying here.............hmmmmm???

    Go with a 3/16 drive/stinger setup minimum. As far as fins and tabs, you can always run it without first then add them if needed. A boat vet on RCG says that tabs are a "band-aid" for improper setup, but I use 'em on all mine. Should be a fun project.............an x642 keeps poppin in my head...............
    NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

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    • BHChieftain
      Fast Electric Addict
      • Nov 2009
      • 1964

      #3
      Any thoughts about installing a flood chamber? Might save a lot of rescue time.

      Chief

      Comment

      • Fluid
        Fast and Furious
        • Apr 2007
        • 7990

        #4
        The Leopard is the equivalent (well kinda) of a Neu or Castle 1515/1Y, and plenty of 26" boats are running around with that setup. This hull is a fortuitous design which can handle more power than many similar-sized hulls - you picked a good one to "over-power". It surprised me, but other knowedgeable racers have told me the same thing. One DF26 in our club uses the Castle motor and spends far too much time running instead of being upside down - nay sayers need to actually watch a well set-up DF26 run in rough water before they run their mouths (or keyboards).

        By all means go with a strut so you can raise and lower the prop, you will need to have at least 3/8" of vertical adjustment. Tabs may be needed, and you will need to be able to adjust the CG around by at least 1.5". Good luck and have fun.




        .
        ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for

        Comment

        • pyroM!KE
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2011
          • 375

          #5
          Check out my build thread..It might help you out a bit. http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...Cyber-Storm-33 .Im getting 57.4 mph without trim tabs..I have found at these speeds, stable runs are possible with a deep v..You just have to take your time when tuning and understand doing something to change a certain behavior might change something somewhere else..Also..Lay everything out (motor placement,battery, ect..) and find your CG before you start sticking everything down..You want to be able to adj your CG between 28-30%+..Actually I would say between 30-32% at those speeds..My sweet spot is around 31% on my CyberStorm..
          I can from a dead stop just hammer it full throttle and I dont get any unwanted handling..Now at first I couldnt even run 3/4 throttle,but I just took my time every run and got her trimmed out and it runs like its on rails without trimtabs..

          Comment

          • Drax21
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Jul 2011
            • 1021

            #6
            I look forward to the finished product. When I told a boater in the UK to stick a leopard 4074 in his Rocket 26" the other so-called experts said it wouldn't work. Now he has a beast of a boat! Just got to get the balance right.
            Everything that has a beginning, has an End

            Comment

            • pyroM!KE
              Senior Member
              • Jan 2011
              • 375

              #7
              Originally posted by Drax21 View Post
              I look forward to the finished product. When I told a boater in the UK to stick a leopard 4074 in his Rocket 26" the other so-called experts said it wouldn't work. Now he has a beast of a boat! Just got to get the balance right.
              I got some negative feedback as well but in the end I had the same results..

              I agree with the balancing..Mine ran like crap untill I found the sweet spot..Remember, make sure you can adjust around 30%..Because if your cg is off and you have your batts moved to the limit youll have to add weight to get it to balance..You dont want to have to do that..

              Comment

              • BHChieftain
                Fast Electric Addict
                • Nov 2009
                • 1964

                #8
                Originally posted by Fluid View Post
                The Leopard is the equivalent (well kinda) of a Neu or Castle 1515/1Y, and plenty of 26" boats are running around with that setup. This hull is a fortuitous design which can handle more power than many similar-sized hulls - you picked a good one to "over-power". It surprised me, but other knowedgeable racers have told me the same thing. One DF26 in our club uses the Castle motor and spends far too much time running instead of being upside down - nay sayers need to actually watch a well set-up DF26 run in rough water before they run their mouths (or keyboards).

                By all means go with a strut so you can raise and lower the prop, you will need to have at least 3/8" of vertical adjustment. Tabs may be needed, and you will need to be able to adjust the CG around by at least 1.5". Good luck and have fun.




                .
                I can't really tell if that comment was directed at me but I am not being a naysayer... I have 3 monos with flood chambers and my comment was just a suggestion to consider a flood , especially if the purpose is to *overdrive* the boat... I enjoy being able to toss the boat around at times without worrying about it flipping.

                Chief

                Comment

                • Fluid
                  Fast and Furious
                  • Apr 2007
                  • 7990

                  #9
                  I can't really tell if that comment was directed at me but I am not being a naysayer...
                  Get a grip, it isn't about you. The OP clearly stated he didn't want any negative posts like the previous thread he referenced, so I was trying to preclude some negative comments in this thread with my post.

                  Remind me now - was yours a negative post?


                  .
                  ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for

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                  • dana
                    Banned
                    • Mar 2010
                    • 3570

                    #10
                    So, if I'm to use a strut, I need to have some length of Teflon between the end of the stuffing tube and beginning of the strut? Like the impulse yes? What other way can it be done and still retain a large up down adjustability....
                    Fluid, I actually chose this boat as my project based on some comments you had made about it on another thread. After a little research I had to try myself -)

                    Comment

                    • pyroM!KE
                      Senior Member
                      • Jan 2011
                      • 375

                      #11
                      The only way you could do it with a strut is run a flooded stuffing tube to have adjustments..But I suggest using a stinger..you shouldnt have to adj more than a couple degrees negative or positive and if you do something is way out of whack....There are many different ways to get your transom deeper or shallower...Thats the only thing adjusting the strut would do..
                      Go with a stinger..

                      Comment

                      • dana
                        Banned
                        • Mar 2010
                        • 3570

                        #12
                        I see what you mean mike, but consider the fact that this thing is gonna have some serious power. Maybe more adjustability is not a bad idea. We'll see, I'm still shopping around to see what's out there.

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                        • dana
                          Banned
                          • Mar 2010
                          • 3570

                          #13
                          also im thinking about battery configuations. i could go 4s1p with one 4s pack up front or two 2s packs on either side of the motor, OR, one 4s pack and two 2s packs in series then parallel for 4s2p. confused… im thinking two 2s packs, and buying hyperion packs to run it. that motor, on my cheapo sky lipos when i was running 4s1p, were getting real hot…. decisions decisions...

                          Comment

                          • LarrysDrifter
                            Big Booty Daddy
                            • May 2010
                            • 3278

                            #14
                            Maybe use two 4s 4000mah packs in parallel?

                            Comment

                            • dana
                              Banned
                              • Mar 2010
                              • 3570

                              #15
                              There just isn't the room unless I stuff them together in front. Prolly not a great idea. This is a very small boat

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