Cooling brain fart

[domwilson]

Another alternative... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pipe

[Ken Haines]

Ice Canisters

Any type of tank container with the pre-installed cooling coils surrounded by water.
Keep this cooler velcro mounted so that you can take it right from the freezer to the boat, install it before each run. Have several all made up and frozen and just plug in the newly frozen cooler in for the next run. Even open loop would provide extra cooling.
Ken

[crabstick]

how about this,

The copper coils mounted to a copper plate that is through the hull

a. flush with a ride pad on a cat
b. flush with the surfaces on a vee.

I guess the main thing is getting the heat exchange plate in contact with water 80% of the time.

I have just sketched up a design of a through hull cooling plate, will transfer it to the pc and upload a bit later

[Jeff Wohlt]

Good idea, Ken. As long as enough pressure is coming from the rudder water it should work well. Simple and easy and use alum tubing KS. The more tubing the better and I know these are almost 3 feet of alum that I have made for motors.

Better than water>>>>>> break apart or cut the crap in the cooling things from what they sell for coolers (bags or the plastic hard kind and I have both in the freezer now) and put that in the box...it is slimey thick and stays frozen longer that ice.

Need to go to walmart anyway....I will buzz by the tupperware department and there are many other little boxes that can work. Sealing them up forever should be easy.

[sailr]

Wow! We must dub thee "Keeper of the Smoke" if you get that to work! Can't wait to see more!!

You can count on me for help.....I have all the Eagle Tree monitoring equipment needed. I am working on an option that will solve the heating problems of ESC's that does not involve a pump, fan, Peltier cooler, keel cooler, dry ice or ice canister. I purchased 4 large 200 amp Mystery controllers to test the concept. Will keep the forum posted.......when the ESC's arrive.

[questtek]

Good idea, Ken. As long as enough pressure is coming from the rudder water it should work well. Simple and easy and use alum tubing KS. The more tubing the better and I know these are almost 3 feet of alum that I have made for motors.

Better than water>>>>>> break apart or cut the crap in the cooling things from what they sell for coolers (bags or the plastic hard kind and I have both in the freezer now) and put that in the box...it is slimey thick and stays frozen longer that ice.

Need to go to walmart anyway....I will buzz by the tupperware department and there are many other little boxes that can work. Sealing them up forever should be easy.

I am just posting a new thread on ESC cooling...the moderator is reviewing it now. It should help answer all your questions and possibly even provide some helpful suggestions. It is only a start........there lots of improvements that can be made. Proper ESC cooling is a project worth a bit of thought time!

[Jeff Wohlt]

Check it out

Well, her eis what I did.

Mini Cooler pack 4 x 2x 1" .97 at walmart

5/32 brass pipe. left over stuff

Silcone tubing...left over stuff

Drilled a bit smaller hole for the pipes and they seem to be sealed without glue at this point...remember, this stuff is thick and not water.

3 pieces of 6" brass.

Will it work....hell if I know but it looks cool! After frozen I will run it thru the pipes at a maintained water temp and see what it comes out at. Also, we are not looking for fast flow...just a small trickle coming from the exit.

[NorthernBoater]

I was thinking maybe we could use pass the water tube through a heat sink that has a peltier cooler attached to it. Cool the water before it hits the motor or ESC. An some either put a big heat sink inside the boat or mount the heat sink on the deck of the boat so air can cool it.

[domwilson]

When funds become available, I plan on purchasing another Himodel 200a ESC. I plan on running a peltier on top of the OSE cooling plate and on that the stock heat sink from a Himodel 200A ESC. I bet that will be cool running ESC.

[Steven Vaccaro]

Well, her eis what I did.

Mini Cooler pack 4 x 2x 1" .97 at walmart

5/32 brass pipe. left over stuff

Silcone tubing...left over stuff

Drilled a bit smaller hole for the pipes and they seem to be sealed without glue at this point...remember, this stuff is thick and not water.

3 pieces of 6" brass.

Will it work....hell if I know but it looks cool! After frozen I will run it thru the pipes at a maintained water temp and see what it comes out at. Also, we are not looking for fast flow...just a small trickle coming from the exit.

Jeff thats pretty large.

Did you ever see these?

[Jeff Wohlt]

This was my first attemp and a very easy one, I might add. Took all of 10 minutes to make. I was going to cut it open and slip the coil in and then seal it. It is less than palm size. I will also get a real size...I guessed at that when loooking at it.

It was a concept only but I might put it in my MM today and go run it. I may just take some readings from it as water passes thru and see if it even cools the water....if it can take 80 degree water to 60 I would be happy.

I still think the ice water with small pump is the key. You can turn it on prior to running and continue it even after the run. Ice water can stay cold for some time.

THe peltier is a great option. But you need 12v. The small fuel pump for rc runs on 6 or 12 volt.

Weight is not an issue at this point. It may weight 8 oz...or about the same as a gps I use. This is for bigger setups and boats.

[crabstick]

I would avoid the Peltier.

I will scan my sketch and upload soon, Ive redesigned my plate...

[norbique]

Finally, I read through this thread. I must say the first thing that came on my mine when I reached the part where some of you mention using small electric pump was the same what Crabstick advised later in the thread. A closed loop cooling system. My addition to Crabstick's idea is: what if you make the heat exchanger part so that it has small fins running lengthwise (not a flat piece of copper) on the bottom of the hull, so not adding too much drag, yet adding more water contact/heat transfer area?!

The peltier isn't good in my opinion for more reasons:
1. cost
2. it consumes a lot of electric energy from your batts.
3. since 99.9% of the fast electric boats have closed hulls, heat produced by the peltier will heat up the closed space of the hull. If you say this is good for the lipos, I can accept that, but you're still heating the air inside the boat = heating motors, ESC and everything inside.

[domwilson]

The cost is not that prohibitive.. http://cgi.ebay.com/1pc-12706-Thermo...item3a53b6f9c9

This is just one example. Current draw is around 6 amps. I don't think heat inside the hull would be a problem if you water-cool the "hot" side with a cooling plate. Thus making the "cold" side even cooler.

[6S HYDRO]

Are you sure you dont have to make the hot side hotter to make the cool side colder?