hello! im new to this forum and im interest in this . i founf this liquid cool system online heres the link http://www.gaz-on.net/TCS-Thermal-Co...-for?artpage=2
Cooling brain fart
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I went thru the link you provided. I have several concerns:
1. Price, this was listed as a disadvantage but I saw no system price in the documentation
2. It is based on air passing over a radiator to remove heat from a recirculating, closed loop (no additional fluid in or out), coolant.
3. It appears to be designed for brushed motors primarily while a majority fo the FE's use brushless and also water cool the ESC.
I believe the solution is better fitted to vehicles that have a high air flow. In FE's, however, there is minimal air circulation in the hull so the radiator concept would only be margionally effective.
Also consider the removal of heat by the radiator is based on the difference in temperature between the air (say 75 degrees) and the coolant (say 100 degrees). This is not a big difference. However by using ice/water solution exchanger instead of an air driven radiator, the temperature difference is between the ice water (say 35 degrees) and the coolant. This higher delta Temperature is critical for high values of heat removal from the coolant.
Since I am not sure of the price of the referenced air radiator cooling system, I can not compare it to the price of the small electric pump (about $10) and small ice/water cooling tank (nitro fuel tank about $5). This dos assume the motor has a coolling jacket and the ESC has water cooling provisions.
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as far for the price its cost 180 for brushless and 150 for brush heres the link http://www.tcscooling.com/priceandavailabi.html its include everything from liquid and stuff. just add a gas tank like u said so the liquid can be cool, so its doesnt getting pump back, sorry for my sucks english
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I think you will find that spending extra money for something that is really not set up for our uses will be a waste.
This thread went through very detailed testing in many forms but it came down to cold water thru a pump and using a can cooler on the motor and a good copper plate on the FETS. The numbers can't be beat by any other means.
For the price, the weight and for the cooling action, this one is the one to use.
The other nice thing about this system is you can cool prior to a run and even after. My summers here get to 100 and water is always 90 surface temps.
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I don't agree with the closed loop. You are putting hot water into the source and when the source's heat increases, you're left with no cooling, like a battery. Drained is done.
What I suggest is a small setup atop the rudder, with a coil inside that is surrounded by a freezable gel, similar to an ice pack.
The coil pack could be kept in a cooler at freezing until time to use and quickly installed outside the hull on the rudder and plugged into the normal water pickup.
The water intake remains at constant temps and is cooled by the coil pack and then sent into the hull. This way there is no risk of over temping your cooling source.
Just my .02
I'll make one up sometime. Sounds neat.
Carry on.
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LIST OF GM ENGINES HISTORYLast edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011, 11:03 PM.FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
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We did that...still have mine in the freezer. Should be a pic on one of these threads.
Search questtek's threads and oyu will see that is exacly what we made. I had 3 brass rubes thru mine...slowing the water flow reduced othe output temps but it is heavier.
Give it shot and give us your feeback on this thread.
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Ha! I knew you'd have thought of this already!Originally posted by Jeff Wohlt View PostWe did that...still have mine in the freezer. Should be a pic on one of these threads.
Search questtek's threads and oyu will see that is exacly what we made. I had 3 brass rubes thru mine...slowing the water flow reduced othe output temps but it is heavier.
Give it shot and give us your feeback on this thread.
Have you tried anything with dry ice?FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
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No dry ice. Not sure what would happen.
Did you find the pic of that I made?
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Dry ice is lighter and has a higher cooling capacity. Might solve the weight problem.Originally posted by Jeff Wohlt View PostNo dry ice. Not sure what would happen.
Did you find the pic of that I made?
Drag racers do this sometimes to chill the fuel being delivered to the engine to produce more HP.FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
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Yes but it is the gas that cools...how will you handle this chunk of Ice? Get it wet and it begins to create gas and bubble like crazy.
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Typically a "coil in cooler" setup, where tubing is coiled in a cooler like container and just pass the fluid through the coil. The caution would be freezing lines if too much dry ice. That would be catastrophic.Originally posted by Jeff Wohlt View PostYes but it is the gas that cools...how will you handle this chunk of Ice? Get it wet and it begins to create gas and bubble like crazy.
The wheels are spinning.FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
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Look at post #52 It worked well and slower water flow makes it colder.
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Ideally, we should be using the outside airflow to cool the ESC's. Like a plumbed CPU cooler with the heat sink sitting atop the boat somewhere. It doesn't make sense to try to dissipate heat in a sealed hatch.
Something like this; where the ESC is inside and the heatsink is out in fresh air and is plumbed into the hull.
FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
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Originally posted by FighterCat57 View PostIdeally, we should be using the outside airflow to cool the ESC's. Like a plumbed CPU cooler with the heat sink sitting atop the boat somewhere. It doesn't make sense to try to dissipate heat in a sealed hatch.
Something like this; where the ESC is inside and the heatsink is out in fresh air and is plumbed into the hull.

That is a great idea. Heat pipes!
Chief
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