Cooling brain fart

[DyrtyByrd]

problems? how so? i would think the higher flow rate would be better for cooling, i would not consider doing this in a smaller hull say under 30" but in your 30" and up hulls running hot set ups or multiple items that need cooling could possibly benefit from the increased flow the only problem i see is duty cycle for the pump im not sure if they are meant to be ran constantly for 10 min. or whatever your runtime would be i guess you could have it switched through your transmitter.....
deffinitly doable inmo

[slash24]

did anybody ever try out that swifer pump? if so how did it work out. i would like to give that a go and throw a radiator in to just make a continuous circuit.

[chopslap]

i agree! Where can I find an acceptable priced 6V 12V dc pump?

http://www.sdshobby.net/electric-plastic-gear-pump-for-smoke-system-p-2158.html

[norbique]

Welcome to OSE chopslap, and thanks for the link, this is worth a try!

[chopslap]

Welcome to OSE chopslap

Thanks

After reading this thread, this is what I have come up with for the mini rigger I have just started to build: Make the skid(?), that covers the stuffing shaft, out of aluminium and solder tubing to it. There we have the heat exchange.

I have some of those pumps, they use a 380 size motor, it would be easy to use a much smaller motor and chop up the pump, reducing its size. There we have a pump.

Off track somewhat;

My original intention for the mini rigger, was to use an outrunner and air cooled esc. Is it alright to waterproof the esc with laminating epoxy? The radio gear will go into a waterproof box. Then again, both the servo and receiver cost less than $10, maybe I will just dunk them into the epoxy and put some grease around the output shaft.

[ManuelW]

mhh followed this thread quite some time:
Why to invest so much time and effort into the cooling of the components? You discuss about cooling 1000W within a few minutes! I have a completely different view, because dissipated heat of the components is just wasted energy from the battery and absolutely decreasing efficiency. Thats why I do on myself and also recommend to chose/use setups which don't get that hot even at high currents! Sure I try to make the normal water cooling circuit as effective as possible and if engines are available with fan I'd also go this way. In the HPR 135 Lightweight I built I use 2x 8S 5000 mAh 45C Lipos and completely empty them in 3:00min resulting in an average power of ~3000W per engine with peaks of 11.000W per engine. But the ESC's and the motors are choosen that way, that they don't reach more than 55°C. That may be an extreme example but you can scale it down to any other boat. If you have to cool away 1000W and maybe even use additional power for a pump and additional weight for heat exhanger, 2nd cooling circuit and so in - imagine how much faster and more efficient your boat could be without the additional weight and if you use this power just for propulsion.

Just a few cents from my side to think or discuss about!

Best regards,
Manuel

[Jacked1]

I just saw this and didn't read the entire thing but one thing I always thought would be cool is to replace the heatsink on the esc with a small aluminum box filled with ice. No tubes or pumps or anything.

I never attepted it tho because of the condensation that would be on the box would likely drip down to the esc.

Another thing I thought of was having a CO2 BB gun cartridge that you could dump though the esc cooling block, but I shot this one down in my head too because the air pressure in the boat would increase and possibly blow off the hatch of the boat.

Another thing that I am acutally doing with my 55" build is use an esc box and fill it with chilled mineral oil and submerge the esc's. The mineral oil is less likely to arc than air as well and won't let O2 to the esc if something gets too hot. And it will also cool the caps.

[norbique]

Doesn't the mineral oil dissolve certain plastic parts of the ESC?!

[Jacked1]

Not that I know of, I have seen entire computers submerged in mineral/vegatable oil for cooling.
It is also used (reffered to as transformer oil) to submerge transformers and high voltage switches to keep them from arcing.

[norbique]

Good, I know tranformer oil. :) I just didn't know mineral/vegetable oil has similar characteristics.

[Jacked1]

Yupp I am going to look for actual transformer oil eventhough I have heard it was the same as mineral oil just to make sure. A few oz shouldn't be too expensive.

[properchopper]

mhh followed this thread quite some time:
Why to invest so much time and effort into the cooling of the components? You discuss about cooling 1000W within a few minutes! I have a completely different view, because dissipated heat of the components is just wasted energy from the battery and absolutely decreasing efficiency. Thats why I do on myself and also recommend to chose/use setups which don't get that hot even at high currents! Sure I try to make the normal water cooling circuit as effective as possible and if engines are available with fan I'd also go this way. In the HPR 135 Lightweight I built I use 2x 8S 5000 mAh 45C Lipos and completely empty them in 3:00min resulting in an average power of ~3000W per engine with peaks of 11.000W per engine. But the ESC's and the motors are choosen that way, that they don't reach more than 55°C. That may be an extreme example but you can scale it down to any other boat. If you have to cool away 1000W and maybe even use additional power for a pump and additional weight for heat exhanger, 2nd cooling circuit and so in - imagine how much faster and more efficient your boat could be without the additional weight and if you use this power just for propulsion.

Just a few cents from my side to think or discuss about!

Best regards,
Manuel

Thank you, Sir ! Configure one's setup to operate within acceptable operating temperatures and the need for all this extra plumbing becomes unnecessary. Just tune for maximum efficiency - cooling overstressed/overheated components just band-aids wasted power.

[Jacked1]

Thank you, Sir ! Configure one's setup to operate within acceptable operating temperatures and the need for all this extra plumbing becomes unnecessary. Just tune for maximum efficiency - cooling overstressed/overheated components just band-aids wasted power.

There is nothing wrong with thinking out of the box.

[Rumdog]

It's kind of useless though. Why run such an improper setup that you need to re think the entire process of simple water cooling?

[Jacked1]

I am thinking more of just different ways of cooling personally. Not really needing to cool more because of a crappy setup.
If I did the same thing on every one of my builds, I would no longer have any interest in building.