Cooling brain fart

[FighterCat57]

Here's another idea, run fresh water through the heat pipes! You could also put the heat exchanger portion in a sandwich Tupperware container and fill it with ice. That would certainly dissipate a large amount of heat!

I really think using heat pipes and heat sinks as well as running water through them could dissipate 1000watts of energy in 5 minutes. Containing the coils in ice water or iced gel would only improve on that.


The heat is dissipated through the cooling fins, the water helps cool the fins... like a radiator with a constant supply of ambient or cool water.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835118037

[Jeff Wohlt]

You just won't find anything smaller and more effici than the ice water system. I will be trying one this summer. A small cooler with a few chunks you can throw in the water res would be easy....leave it run while changing packs or whatever...

If you are set on a fin system I would mount it in the hull bottom to get splashed but again....you are now coolign it with 90 degree water or in the air at almost 100 degrees. No point if you can't supply cold water.

Did you read the tests questek did on the other thread? It is well worth reading and noting the numbers.

[FighterCat57]

You just won't find anything smaller and more effici than the ice water system. I will be trying one this summer. A small cooler with a few chunks you can throw in the water res would be easy....leave it run while changing packs or whatever...

If you are set on a fin system I would mount it in the hull bottom to get splashed but again....you are now coolign it with 90 degree water or in the air at almost 100 degrees. No point if you can't supply cold water.

Did you read the tests questek did on the other thread? It is well worth reading and noting the numbers.

Combine the two, not a substitute, but a compliment. If you get ice water to the cooling fins and then through the heat sink the effective radiant cooling coefficient is increased. (utilizing the fins as the primary heat exchange) The key is to have the fins directly attached to the cooling plate.

The other thing I would really like to try is the heat pipe with remote heat sink mounted on the exterior of the hull. This way the outside moving air would help cool the unit.

All fascinating stuff. I wonder how many calories it takes to melt a handful of iced cubes and how many calories of heat are actually given off during a race?

Link to other thread please. =)

[FighterCat57]

On the other hand adding the fins might actually dissipate the cold water capacity quicker!

BTW- I'm really anxious to see what comes of the ice water cooling setup.

[questtek]

You just won't find anything smaller and more effici than the ice water system. I will be trying one this summer. A small cooler with a few chunks you can throw in the water res would be easy....leave it run while changing packs or whatever...

If you are set on a fin system I would mount it in the hull bottom to get splashed but again....you are now coolign it with 90 degree water or in the air at almost 100 degrees. No point if you can't supply cold water.

Did you read the tests questek did on the other thread? It is well worth reading and noting the numbers.

I certainly agree with Jeff. We both did a lot of design and testing on various cooling systems and the one he metioned with small chunks of ice and a water circulating pump worked just great. Again, you can follow the details of our experiments at:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...light=questtek

Good Luck!

[FighterCat57]

I certainly agree with Jeff. We both did a lot of design and testing on various cooling systems and the one he metioned with small chunks of ice and a water circulating pump worked just great. Again, you can follow the details of our experiments at:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...light=questtek

Good Luck!

Thanks for the link, that thread rocks!

Sorry for joining in so late and re-stating the already done.

[FighterCat57]

Hey Jeff, have you looked in to endothermic reactions? There's some combinations of ammonium chloride (similar to cold packs) that might last hours rather than minutes... Perhaps an ammonium chloride injection system into the water cooling system. Senses temp and injects more ammonium as needed.. That would be one hell of a closed loop setup!

[Jeff Wohlt]

I have not but bet it is cold!

[norbique]

adding some salt to the ice lowers the temp even more.

[ray schrauwen]

BUt, corrosive....

[madgadget]

dry ice, that's what I may try.

[DyrtyByrd]

why not just use the pump with no tank to continuously run fresh water through the system while running and while idle i would think with positive vaccum on the pick up you could also move it up some to lessen drag and still keep water flowing
also if you run in a hot climate like i do the ambient temps of your equipment could range from 70 to 100 degrees while the water we run in is quite cooler think of this example: if your hands are cold in the winter and you use cold water to wash them it feels warm because its not as cold as your hands, wouldnt it translate te same on the warm side, if your motor is hot lets say 105 if you use 70 degree water to cool it would eventually balance out to 70 plus or minus a few degrees witch is deff not a harmful temp for our equipment i think the real problem is volume of water not temp and i think the pump would work just fine with out alot of clutter in your hull, just my 2cents

[norbique]

i agree! Where can I find an acceptable priced 6V 12V dc pump?

[DyrtyByrd]

im not sure i have some at work but they seem too big maybe a small window washer pump?

[CornelP]

Robbe and Graupner have some pumps for scale models. Window washer has a very big flowrate, it will just generate more problems.