Darin's Voracity "Race-Prep" - Taking it "One-Step-Beyond"

[Old Vetter]

Darin, I would like to change the water outlets on my motor cooling sleeve to 90 degree fittings. Could you tell me what size threads to get? Thanks for all the info!

[Tamelesstgr]

Darin,

Where your stuffing tube passes through your flood tube inside the hull, how did you decide to secure/seal that joint? Thanks for the heat shrink tip, I am using a proboat strut on my deep-vee and was wodering how to seal where the stuffing tube enters the strut as well. Didn't want to epoxy the stuffing tube into the strut. I think on my dad's Blackjack 29 the stuffing tube is just held in position by the strut.

Ken

[lucdesorel]

how did you make to get the mount out of it in the first place??? what method and tool did you used?

[Darin Jordan]

how did you make to get the mount out of it in the first place??? what method and tool did you used?

From the very first post...

Pliers and a chisel and a lot of time and I have most of the 3D Printed structure out. Need to go over it with a sanding disc to carefully grind away the remnants and get the hull smooth again. Delicate operation to keep from going down into the hull structure. And, want to keep from warping the glass.

Warning... you are HIGHLY at risk for damaging the underlying fiberglass if you attempt this. Mine did not come through undamaged, but it's all damage that I expected and was willing to fix. Be aware of that before you dive in here...

[Banzee]

What is the Best way Darin to remove the battery tray without damaging the Hull ?

[Darin Jordan]

What is the Best way Darin to remove the battery tray without damaging the Hull ?

I have no idea. They are glued in pretty heavily, and even being careful, as I was, I still damaged the hull (cracks in the exterior, etc...

I went into this knowing I'd have to do some repair/blueprinting on the bottom.

My advice on these would be to run them as is. They've been pretty nicely laid out. IF you need to get the CG back more, it's better to just add some weight to the back of the hull. You're most likely overpowered anyhow, so the extra weight will only help.

[Banzee]

I have no idea. They are glued in pretty heavily, and even being careful, as I was, I still damaged the hull (cracks in the exterior, etc...

I went into this knowing I'd have to do some repair/blueprinting on the bottom.

My advice on these would be to run them as is. They've been pretty nicely laid out. IF you need to get the CG back more, it's better to just add some weight to the back of the hull. You're most likely overpowered anyhow, so the extra weight will only help.

My voracity is all stock électronic except the receiver , just asking if i want to put cf inlay cuz mine crack under !

[Darin Jordan]

My voracity is all stock électronic except the receiver , just asking if i want to put cf inlay cuz mine crack under !

When I removed mine, I used a very sharp wood chisel and a hammer to get the majority of it out. Then I used a 2" sanding disk on a high-speed drill to work it all down. Lot's of mess/dust, and it really is a delicate process to get it down to bare glass without breaking through or cracking the outer paint coat.

Clearly it can be done, however. I'm just not sure that you can actually buy just the inner insert (haven't looked)...

[Banzee]

I don't if you can see , but all the bottom of the hull got crack in the gelcoat , i just want to try to reinforce her to stop that !! Sorry , if you feel i'm off topic , just tell i will remove the post ! I'm agree that is a very delicate process to execute ,but you give me some tips ! Thank's ! I will take a look at !!


2016-07-03 12.59.34.jpg

[lucdesorel]

hi! i can see that you are using 2 pack of 3s lipo, is it better to put 2 pack of lipo 3s like you do or 2 pack of 6s? and why?

[Darin Jordan]

hi! i can see that you are using 2 pack of 3s lipo, is it better to put 2 pack of lipo 3s like you do or 2 pack of 6s? and why?

Funny you should ask...

The boat is designed to run a pair of 3S packs in SERIES, making for 6S total at whatever mAh packs you are using.

I just placed an order for a pair of 4000mAh 6S packs, which I'll run in parallel. We'll see if I can get the boat to balance properly with those. Even with the 3S packs, I think the cells have to be all the way back, so more weight might not help. If I have to, I'll add lead to the rear of the boat to get the balance point aft enough.

[lucdesorel]

Funny you should ask...

The boat is designed to run a pair of 3S packs in SERIES, making for 6S total at whatever mAh packs you are using.

I just placed an order for a pair of 4000mAh 6S packs, which I'll run in parallel. We'll see if I can get the boat to balance properly with those. Even with the 3S packs, I think the cells have to be all the way back, so more weight might not help. If I have to, I'll add lead to the rear of the boat to get the balance point aft enough.

well its not about weight but more about energy, volt and amp.... my friend run in with 2 packs of 6s and it run great... just wanted to know if it was better one way or the other... more or less heat...etc... you should become facebook friend with us... you could see our video of our voracity and zelos too..

[Darin Jordan]

Hey gang... anyone who might have followed this thread... Found out 2 things from racing it at the 2016 NAMBA FE Nationals.

1) Dynamite 160A ESC has a 180A "Safe Mode" limit. When you hit 180A, it engages "safe-mode", and you are now stuck in "limp-home" mode. Will get you back to the dock, but not at any kind of speed. Only way to reset is to remove power and rearm. Cost me several laps off Offshore, as I'm pretty sure that the motor could have handled the additional Amps. Not sure if this can be disabled. That said, the ESC is ROCK solid and performed great, so this IS a nice fail-safe to have for sport boaters who may not have the tools to tune to the levels racers do.

2) NEEDS BIGGER TURN FINS! At racing speeds, if you want to keep the boat cornering at high-speed, you need much bigger turn fins. The ones I added in this thread are NOT adequate. I need to make some new ones, but in the meantime, I dug these out of my spares box and did a makeshift fix, which allowed me to run WOT through the entire Offshore course. Had I done this earlier, I think I would have placed much better in the class, and might have even won it.

20160811_200755.jpg 20160811_200805.jpg

Finally, I ran the boat on a pair of 4000mAh 6S packs in parallel. The extra weight helped a lot. Batteries were placed about 1" forward in the battery trays, and the balance seemed about perfect.

Just wanted to provide a little feedback. Boat definitely handles race conditions great, once setup as described!

[Banzee]

Hey gang... anyone who might have followed this thread... Found out 2 things from racing it at the 2016 NAMBA FE Nationals.

1) Dynamite 160A ESC has a 180A "Safe Mode" limit. When you hit 180A, it engages "safe-mode", and you are now stuck in "limp-home" mode. Will get you back to the dock, but not at any kind of speed. Only way to reset is to remove power and rearm. Cost me several laps off Offshore, as I'm pretty sure that the motor could have handled the additional Amps. Not sure if this can be disabled. That said, the ESC is ROCK solid and performed great, so this IS a nice fail-safe to have for sport boaters who may not have the tools to tune to the levels racers do.

2) NEEDS BIGGER TURN FINS! At racing speeds, if you want to keep the boat cornering at high-speed, you need much bigger turn fins. The ones I added in this thread are NOT adequate. I need to make some new ones, but in the meantime, I dug these out of my spares box and did a makeshift fix, which allowed me to run WOT through the entire Offshore course. Had I done this earlier, I think I would have placed much better in the class, and might have even won it.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]145701[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]145702[/ATTACH]

Finally, I ran the boat on a pair of 4000mAh 6S packs in parallel. The extra weight helped a lot. Batteries were placed about 1" forward in the battery trays, and the balance seemed about perfect.

Just wanted to provide a little feedback. Boat definitely handles race conditions great, once setup as described!

Did you notice any difference with the 6s in parallel compare to the 3s in serie for the power and punch ?

[properchopper]

Hey gang... anyone who might have followed this thread... Found out 2 things from racing it at the 2016 NAMBA FE Nationals.

1) Dynamite 160A ESC has a 180A "Safe Mode" limit. When you hit 180A, it engages "safe-mode", and you are now stuck in "limp-home" mode. Will get you back to the dock, but not at any kind of speed. Only way to reset is to remove power and rearm. Cost me several laps off Offshore, as I'm pretty sure that the motor could have handled the additional Amps. Not sure if this can be disabled. That said, the ESC is ROCK solid and performed great, so this IS a nice fail-safe to have for sport boaters who may not have the tools to tune to the levels racers do.

2) NEEDS BIGGER TURN FINS! At racing speeds, if you want to keep the boat cornering at high-speed, you need much bigger turn fins. The ones I added in this thread are NOT adequate. I need to make some new ones, but in the meantime, I dug these out of my spares box and did a makeshift fix, which allowed me to run WOT through the entire Offshore course. Had I done this earlier, I think I would have placed much better in the class, and might have even won it.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]145701[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]145702[/ATTACH]

Finally, I ran the boat on a pair of 4000mAh 6S packs in parallel. The extra weight helped a lot. Batteries were placed about 1" forward in the battery trays, and the balance seemed about perfect.

Just wanted to provide a little feedback. Boat definitely handles race conditions great, once setup as described!

I tend to agree...........

andy cyberstorm 2004 enlarged rear.JPG