So 60oz of Epoxy went into the nose, would you mind snapping a picture of that for my reference? I'm trying to understand if it's just one big epoxy "Brick" in there or is it more coating the seams with a void still in the nose? Will you be adding foam flotation?
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NEVER SATISFIED RACING
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Not going to be able to see anything regarding the epoxy. Look at it this way... the first 2" or so of the inside of the nose of the boat is now a solid epoxy block. The rest of the front of the boat is still open.Originally posted by Tamelesstgr View Post
I will be adding pool-noodles for floatation. I try to avoid 2-Part foam if possible. Once it's there, it's there, and if you break the outer layer, it'll absorb water. It also can expand or contract with high-temps, actually drawing the deck or sides of the boat in. Want to avoid that.Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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Understood, thanks!
NEVER SATISFIED RACING
Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6sComment
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Originally posted by Darin Jordan View PostUsed my Mill to open up the hole in the stock water outlet fitting to a full 1/8".
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Finally, mixed up two 30-oz pours of epoxy and milled fiber to reinforce the nose of the hull. Shouldn't be splitting open if it hits a buoy!
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Most people don't realize how much insurance it is to add epoxy in the tips to keep the hull from splitting. To me it's a given on EVERY build I do.
Also this hull seems to be a little nose light anyway.32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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Do you also reinforce the length of the seam down the hull as well?NEVER SATISFIED RACING
Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6sComment
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On some hulls. In this one, that got done a little along the open area (the length of the hatch and to the transom) a couple of posts up.Originally posted by Tamelesstgr View Post
Generally speaking, no.Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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Darin, that's where Tom broke the one he modified for open offshore Atlanta style against the gas leviathans.
He had blueprinted the bottom. Sand fill, sand fill, the usual. More stringer etc. Ran 6s/15,000mah with a 1527/1y and a big fat prop. A LOT of battery weight for this hull. It ran fantastic but as he had not reinforced that seem at the hatch opening it flexed plenty enough to split er open. We actually for a second thought "hatch tape it up and go" for the last heat. haha Too much gear to risk losing though.
It's fixed now but good call on reinforcing a bit.Noisy personComment
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I'm waiting for a new RX to arrive to complete setting up the power system, so I figured it was time to get this dolled up and ready to do some racing. Used a few of the standard Voracity decal package bits, enough to maintain the product identification. The rest is to thank all those who support my racing endeavors.
I painted the tip Safety Orange as kind of a throwback to Offshore Racing, and also because the tip of the boat got damaged during testing and I needed to repaint that part anyhow.
Just about ready to go!
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20160512_035500.jpgDarin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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I like the orange tip!32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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A couple more shots. I know that Pro Boat really isn't in the "race boat" market, but DAMN!! Racing looks GOOD on this boat!
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20160512_035430.jpgDarin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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Darin. Your Voracity looks AWESOMEComment
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Tom had his out last night. Really runs nice with sane mah's on board. Looked better on 8k than 10k.Noisy personComment
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Is he running stock power system??Originally posted by T.S.Davis View Post
A pair of 4000mAh 6S packs in parallel is workable.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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4s2p, 1527/1y. Built a bare hull from scratch.Noisy personComment
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Wrapped the Voracity up last night.
Let's see....
1) opened up the holes in the strut bracket and milled out the strut slot to accept larger M4 sized fasteners.
2) Installed strut, putting some heat shrink over the strut to stuffing tube connection. Helps keep water from climbing up the stuffing tube when sitting idle.
Strut is set dead neutral and about .250" up from the keel. We start there.
3) installed heat shrink on motor wire adapters. Turns out I nailed the wiring order first try. I actually won a 50/50 chance for a change.
4) Installed, bound, and setup RX.
5) Installed the battery straps.
Guess it's time to order a pair of 6S packs and get to testing.
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20160513_202151.jpgDarin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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