*** NEW *** Pro Boat Veles 29 Catamaran

[Rafael_Lopez]

At least your flex didn't fall apart!!

Call product support and ask for a replacement. Unfortunately things happen in mass production. The part number is PRB282048.

Here is the 70mph run. The boat still needs a little tweaking.The temps are higher than normal because this run was right after my initial all stock 60mph run and the rain was about to start back, so I couldn't wait as long as I would like to have before going back out. "warranty is up"!!! (as Chris says). I got to thank him again as well....Thanks to Chris for the Awesome Prop that helped me get in the 70+mph club again with another stock boat.

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Wow, that's way more than I ever expected to see from this boat in stock form. Honestly, my focus when I designed the hull was on creating a boat that would handle corners and speed and be 100% different than the V3 29" hull. I was never too interested in top speed capable with the stock system. Good job!!

[kfxguy]

Yes, when I get home this afternoon. I do know that the bolt holes are exactly the same as the Geico v3 if that helps any until I get in front of the boat. I believe the width of the strut pad is slightly wider than the Geico's pad but the holes are the same.

Thx. Just pm me if you don't mind

[MADRCER]

Wow, that's way more than I ever expected to see from this boat in stock form. Honestly, my focus when I designed the hull was on creating a boat that would handle corners and speed and be 100% different than the V3 29" hull. I was never too interested in top speed capable with the stock system. Good job!!

Thanks Rafael!

[ysae]

Madrcer - happy to see you got one of the first veles 29's since you post and video your boat. Been enjoying all the runs.

[martin]

Yes, I believe so. I had a slight conservative battery placement and lower than I like to run strut position on this run because I was a bit gun shy because of some 60mph bow lift that I had experienced on with another set up earlier and I didn't feel like possibly having to rescue it in the rain.. lol! I might not attempt another all out hard run until I have some insurance in the form of an upgraded cable though.

Nice run, what was the strut height in relation to the bottom of the sponsons & was it a negative angle on the 70mph run. Many thanks.

[Rafael_Lopez]

For those who don't have the boat and are curious, I set the strut even with the last step, out of the box. As you can imagine, the flat bottom strut does indeed act like a trim tab and is an integral part of keeping the boat stable in a straight line. The ride pads run the full length of the hull, unlike the V3 29" hulls. Each step drops down 2mm. This also makes the hull able to handle higher speeds without flipping backwards. Out of the box, I recommend running the packs as far back in the trays as possible, and moving them forward as necessary. This helps the boat run on 1/2 the middle pad and rear pad, which yields the best straight line performance as the front end airs out. If you intend to run a larger prop on less voltage, you will have to lower the strut or the prop will be too high and will cavitate; too much of the prop will be out of the water. Its a very easy boat to tweak because it needs very little adjustment to see a change.

Hope this helps.

[kfxguy]

For those who don't have the boat and are curious, I set the strut even with the last step, out of the box. As you can imagine, the flat bottom strut does indeed act like a trim tab and is an integral part of keeping the boat stable in a straight line. The ride pads run the full length of the hull, unlike the V3 29" hulls. Each step drops down 2mm. This also makes the hull able to handle higher speeds without flipping backwards. Out of the box, I recommend running the packs as far back in the trays as possible, and moving them forward as necessary. This helps the boat run on 1/2 the middle pad and rear pad, which yields the best straight line performance as the front end airs out. If you intend to run a larger prop on less voltage, you will have to lower the strut or the prop will be too high and will cavitate; too much of the prop will be out of the water. Its a very easy boat to tweak because it needs very little adjustment to see a change.

Hope this helps.

If you lower the strut with a bigger prop won't more prop be in the water? Am I missing something? And by adding a bigger prop won't more prop be in the water with no changes?

[flattrack]

Hey Rafael, I was curious why the steps appeared more shallow on Veles compared to the MG V3 hulls. I know there is quite a bit of controversy on steps and their affect on speed. Was in your take on this?

Also, interesting to see that a flat bottomed strut is used. I thought flat bottomed struts were mostly for older hydros that needed the stern lift. However, I can see where maybe a cat could benefit if it's "flightly" in the nose. This makes me want to flatten the strut on my MG V3 to test it.

[MADRCER]

There is a 45 minute "Veles live chat" question and answers video on Pro Boat's Facebook page that explains the differences between the Geico and Veles. If anyone wants more info between the two and why the Veles is designed the way it is. A lot of people's wonders will be answered in the video.

https://www.facebook.com/OfficialProboatModels/

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Flattrack in order to grind enough off the Geico strut to make a difference you would be well into the bushings. I don't recommend that. Also, if you are running the Geico strut flat on the table you most likely have a slow wet AMP hungry boat, if it's in stock form. The flat Veles strut width is quite a bit wider than the standard round strut. So the smaller round strut wouldn't work too well for a whellie bar ... lol.

[Rafael_Lopez]

If you lower the strut with a bigger prop won't more prop be in the water? Am I missing something? And by adding a bigger prop won't more prop be in the water with no changes?

That's the intent. A surface piercing prop will always find it's center line in the water, but if you try and take off with a large prop, set too high, all it will do is suck in air and causes the boat to putt around and never get on plane; cavitating. So you either lower the strut or you will have to hand toss the boat and pin the throttle and hope you never have to get off the throttle enough for the boat to jump off plane.

[fweasel]

A surface piercing prop will always find it's center line in the water

A detail I did not know, and helpful in understanding what is actually happening when adjusting strut and prop heights. Thanks!

[Rafael_Lopez]

Hey Rafael, I was curious why the steps appeared more shallow on Veles compared to the MG V3 hulls. I know there is quite a bit of controversy on steps and their affect on speed. Was in your take on this?

Also, interesting to see that a flat bottomed strut is used. I thought flat bottomed struts were mostly for older hydros that needed the stern lift. However, I can see where maybe a cat could benefit if it's "flightly" in the nose. This makes me want to flatten the strut on my MG V3 to test it.

The steps are shallow because they are actual steps. The V3 hulls has wedges instead of steps and they all lay flat against a flat surface. That's great for skimming across the water, it's what causes the drift effect in those boats, but not great for all around performance.

Steps allow the hull to aerate between the steps causing less surface tension with the water, resulting in higher speeds. This is why this boat, out of the box is much faster than the V3 hull. The motors are both 2000kv. The small diference in wattage is wont come in to play until you load the motor up more. This is not my take, it's a fact which I found through studying boat hydro dynamics.

A flat bottom strut is for tunnel hulls, regardless of age or design, though some may benefit from it more than others. It's a trim tab and like all tabs add length to the hull and make adjustments more precise. The hull didn't need it, but I thought it was a unique feature, unlike anything on the market. It also makes tuning very easy. A little negative or positive goes a long way, and making products user friendly is what progression is all about. It also allows the hull to be aired out more and I feel is key to people seeing 70 out of the stock boat without it getting flighty or out of shape.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Opps, double post.

[flattrack]

Rafael, I remember in the FB live chat, there was mention of stepping down each step by 2mm. Does this mean the boat, while level on a table, will sit on rear step only with the remaining forward steps not touching the table (assuming something is supporting the front)? I'm just trying to understand what you mean between real steps and "wedges". Us cheap Miss Geico guys are looking for every advantage we can squeeze. Maybe somebody can post a side view of the Veles with a straight edge on sponsons?

[MADRCER]

Rafael, I remember in the FB live chat, there was mention of stepping down each step by 2mm. Does this mean the boat, while level on a table, will sit on rear step only with the remaining forward steps not touching the table (assuming something is supporting the front)? I'm just trying to understand what you mean between real steps and "wedges". Us cheap Miss Geico guys are looking for every advantage we can squeeze. Maybe somebody can post a side view of the Veles with a straight edge on sponsons?

The boat rest on all pads, it's just that the front portion of all the pads that step down but level back out. See photo of mine.

If anyone is wondering I didn't get to do a 4s run today because one of my zippy's went bad apparently during storage. One cell was at 2.4 volts and wouldnt charge up. I tried to hot flash it as a Nimh but still nothing.

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