Supervee27 ?

[m4a1usr]

I took my SV27 out for it's first run today . Everything went great there was no water in the hull . The motor temp was to high for my liking . So i think a better water jacket & water pick are the first upgrade i will make . I slide the lipo about a inch past the mount . But the boat seemed a little hoppy , unless thats just the way they run . Maybe i need to slide them a little farther foward . The water had a slight ripple & the air temp was about 58 - 65 degrees . I did have to adjust the rutter linkage just a little . All in all everything went great .

What prop are you running? Too hot a motor could mean alot of things but it might be the stinger and rudder are not set correctly. As far as adding a water pickup,..dont. You dont need anything hanging off the transom or some addition to your stock water pickup in the rudder. Open the water inlet hole in your rudder. Make it bigger. Do not add anything to increase drag. The water coming in from the water pickup is more then enough to do the job.

Check your hardware first. Make sure your stinger is set to neutral, then ensure the rudder is at the same angle as the transom face. Trim tabs are an extension of the bottom ride surface. So neutral too. Now adjust your center of balance so the hull rides evenly and doesnt dolphin or porpoise. The guys who designed the boat did a darn good job of making it a good entry level setup.

You have a very well thought out design and equipment so make it work right. I know guys who are getting very respectable speeds out of their boats and other then adjustments and improving production imperfections they have not done anything other then add a decent prop. Heck, look at the stock class in NAMBA. Those guys are screaming and no additions!

John

[rchippie]

What prop are you running? Too hot a motor could mean alot of things but it might be the stinger and rudder are not set correctly. As far as adding a water pickup,..dont. You dont need anything hanging off the transom or some addition to your stock water pickup in the rudder. Open the water inlet hole in your rudder. Make it bigger. Do not add anything to increase drag. The water coming in from the water pickup is more then enough to do the job.

Check your hardware first. Make sure your stinger is set to neutral, then ensure the rudder is at the same angle as the transom face. Trim tabs are an extension of the bottom ride surface. So neutral too. Now adjust your center of balance so the hull rides evenly and doesnt dolphin or porpoise. The guys who designed the boat did a darn good job of making it a good entry level setup.

You have a very well thought out design and equipment so make it work right. I know guys who are getting very respectable speeds out of their boats and other then adjustments and improving production imperfections they have not done anything other then add a decent prop. Heck, look at the stock class in NAMBA. Those guys are screaming and no additions!

John

John im still using the stock prop . I used a pencil on the bottom of the hull to check the stinger . The gap is the same from one end to the other . So the stinger is good . I just checked the trim tabs with a pencil on the bottom of the hull . The gap go wider as it got father away from the transom . So i adjusted them so the gap is the same all the way across. the rudder looks good .


I just enlarged the hole in the side of the rudder . I checked the brass fitting on top of the rudder . It was pluged with silicone or glue that was used to seal the fitting . I cleaned it out & blew air tru it . there is no restriction at all now . It flows real good . Also is the small hole on the bottom of the rudder supposed to be pluged or open ?. I broke the fitting that goes in the top of the rudder . Hopefully i can get it out with a easy out . If not i'll have to buy a new rudder .

[m4a1usr]

John im still using the stock prop . I used a pencil on the bottom of the hull to check the stinger . The gap is the same from one end to the other . So the stinger is good . I just checked the trim tabs with a pencil on the bottom of the hull . The gap go wider as it got father away from the transom . So i adjusted them so the gap is the same all the way across. the rudder looks good .


I just enlarged the hole in the side of the rudder . I checked the brass fitting on top of the rudder . It was pluged with silicone or glue that was used to seal the fitting . I cleaned it out & blew air tru it . there is no restriction at all now . It flows real good . Also is the small hole on the bottom of the rudder supposed to be pluged or open ?.

Ensure the hull is laying flat on a good smooth surface in the correct ride configuration. The hull has steps so dont worry about it running too wet if you have gotten the basic mechanics set right. The tip of the nose, from the top side of the hull, measured down to the table should be about 2 3/4". Thats the right way it should run. Not nose up on its tail. This is the reference that you need to make your adjustments from. Make sure your trim tabs are down even with the bottom of the hull. I have played/owned at least 5 SV27's and not one of them with the stock tabs had the trim tabs down low enough. I had to slot the holes to bring the tabs down enough. Like I said before. They should be set to neutral.

The hole in the rudder is too small IMO and should be drilled out a bit. It should be nice and open. This can be a task but its not beyond most. The stock opening is 062". I like to open them up to .089". Round the bottom of the rudder too. It should not be squared. A gentle radius is good. Make the entire face sharp. Not a knive edge but sharp.

Upgrade to the grim racer metal prop recomended in the manual but an X440/3 does well. You can go up to a modified Octura 646 using the stock motor/ESC combo providing your setup adjustments are done properly. Its been done by some of the guys who race.

Get rid of your stock radio. Too many guys have reported loss of control when the boat gets out of range. Scuff the bottom, helps the top end. A stock SV27 once having had the improvements done will run well into the mid/upper 40's. So its one of the better RTR setups money can buy (speed to dollar ratio).

Let me search for Darins setup thread harder. His and the others commentary is well worth the read.


John

[badag98]

Chippie,

Currently I am using both pick ups, the stock one (rudder) is for the ESC. The added pickup runs to the Motor mount then to the motor jacket. I ran it yesterday, keep in mind it was in the 40's outside and when i was done the motor and the ESC were both cool to the touch.

There is one more thing that i have not done that I am looking at and that is adding another exit port. Right now the lines come back together and exit the stock port. I am thinking about adding one that way both have there own exit and i can tell if one is not putting water out.

[rchippie]

Thank's for the repliys .

I got my rudder problem fixed . I drilled the intake opening a little bigger as mentioned . I also fixed the broken & pluged fitting problem on the rudder . I also slotted the trim tabs as mentioned . So i could get them perfectly flush with the botton of the hull . I also ordered my port side turn fin . It's raining here in largo FL. So i'll have to wait till tommorow to try the boat again .

I just put two layers of fiber glass on each side to strengthen the sides . I also ordered a new water jacket & adj trim tabs .

[m4a1usr]

I just put two layers of fiber glass on each side to strengthen the sides . I also ordered a new water jacket & adj trim tabs .

Good choices. Upgrade to 4mm bullets too if you can solder. The stock 3mm bullets just dont cut it.

John

[Brushless55]

For my SVs on the rudder pickup, I used a point file and opened up the hole a small amount and now my temps have not gotten over 105* on a hot summer day this past year using a CF48 prop and using the stock water jacket

[wizard122]

I agree both set ups look good. I'm thinking about running two water inlets myself The Ammo 2300 runs hotter than the stock motor. I run a Geko 201 gps in front of motor so I guess thats like running some lead in her about 4 oz. My friend just go a radar gun so I'm hoping to get some more speed with out the added weight.

[rchippie]

Good choices. Upgrade to 4mm bullets too if you can solder. The stock 3mm bullets just dont cut it.

John

After talking to jan via email today . He gave me a list of recomended upgrades in order of importance for a non racer . I went with #1 #3 & #5 & #6 . I had all ready done the #2 mod before talking with him. I will do the other mods when i get some extra cash . I work part time at my friends hobby shop . So i can get a lot of my stuff at cost . But some stuff i have to get at other places .

1. hatch seal tape (always tape the hatch down)
2. Velcro. take the batt locators out
3. water jacket
4. antenna mount
5. trim tab adjusters
6. port side fin (not used for racing)
7. thrust bearing and small spacer
8. servo mount

[Brushless55]

I run my SVs stock..
only mod for cooling was opening up the rudder hole with a point file, and using stock water jacket, my temps are very good.
and I use the stock trim tabs, no need for adjusters if the cog is set good

[rchippie]

well the water jacket covers more of the motor than than the stock one . More coverage equals more heat disapation. As for the adj trim tabs . All the SV's i have seen pics of had them . So i figured there must be a reason . Also is that a unlimited hydro in your avatar ?.

[Brushless55]

well the water jacket covers more of the motor than than the stock one . More coverage equals more heat disapation. As for the adj trim tabs . All the SV's i have seen pics of had them . So i figured there must be a reason .

It also depends on flow..
many run out and spend money on things they do not need thinking because its a hop up it is better..
I never see over 105-110* on my motor on a hot summer day. and in the cold my temps are in the 80s
as for the trims, if they are not set right they will cause drag and slow the boat and pull more amps

[rchippie]

It also depends on flow..
many run out and spend money on things they do not need thinking because its a hop up it is better..
I never see over 105-110* on my motor on a hot summer day. and in the cold my temps are in the 80s
as for the trims, if they are not set right they will cause drag and slow the boat and pull more amps

I agree with what your saying . What can i say i also like a little bling .

[Brushless55]

the bling is cool!

[rchippie]

My trim tabs & motor jacket showed today . I have a couple quick ?'s. When the motor jacket is in stalled with the four holes on top ( with the brand in using) . Can i assume i should use two holes that are diagonlly oppsoed to each other ?.



I would also like to know should i adj them to the stock location, were there is about a 1/8 gap across the whole tab when holding a straight edge on the bottom of the hull ?. Or should i adj them so the trailing edge is level with the bottom of th hull ?.