what the ??????

[don ferrette]

Ok here's an update finally on the "new can" and my dead 1527 1Y's-

Yes the new can style is here to stay and the old style is basically history, even for most rebuilds. They had one can left of the old version to repair mine or upgrade to the new style, I opted for the new one as down the road that's where we'll be anyways. I guess I'll need to hook up with Peter Z. to see if we can just make some new front plates for his oh so cool mounts.

My two 1527 1Y motors that were both dead will be repaired under warranty, this Lisa @ NEU told me today (is she as cute as she sounds on the phone? ) when she called. The "old style" can motor that was a few months old had a magnet fail and the one that the wires let go after two laps we didn't even get into, Lisa said they'd take care of it. She said it'll be a couple weeks but hey I'm good with that. So yeah the new style we didn't see coming caught us off guard but kudos to them warrantying both motors without any hesitation whatsoever. Hopefully I'll be good to go in a couple weeks.

[Steven Vaccaro]

Cool, I'll try using that extension, thanks for posting the info.

Email her, its quicker.
Email me at the ose products contact page if you want it.

[don ferrette]

I talked to Lisa at Neu motors yesterday to see when my replacement 1527 1Y is being returned to me. Hope I get it before the Nats in June. I called Lisa at this number 1-858-674-2250 x 117, left a message and was called back the next day.

Cool, I'll try using that extension, thanks for posting the info.

[hebner]

I talked to Lisa at Neu motors yesterday to see when my replacement 1527 1Y is being returned to me. Hope I get it before the Nats in June. I called Lisa at this number 1-858-674-2250 x 117, left a message and was called back the next day.

[don ferrette]

Don, Maybe too much timing caused excessive heat. Too much heat caused the wires to become unsoldered.

No the timing wasn't jacked up and that put me down to my last 1527 1y (which BTW performed flawlessly in that and 3 other boats running 8 classes all in one day). The wires came off after 2 laps so I really have a hard time thinking it got that hot that quick especially when the last 1527 ran perfectly in the same hull with no other changes. Don't get me wrong I really like the Neu motors and want to continue using them for sure, just was a major bummer to see this happen to a brand new motor on it's first run on top of having to modify motor mounts to accomodate the design changes that I didn't know about until I opened the box.

I will continue to try to call to talk to someone there and get the motor sent in to be looked at. I just want to get past the answering machine to talk to a live person to let them know it's coming. they must be super busy!!

[BHChieftain]

A Steve Neu sighting! Awesome.

FE racers are a suspicious bunch. Evolution scares the b'geezus out of us. We've been misled once or twice over the years. Couple that with a learning curve and we're not the most trusting bunch.

Keep up the good work sir.

True. My favorite model boat still uses oars (and some weather beaten hamsters).

Chief

[detox]

Don, Maybe too much timing caused excessive heat. Too much heat caused the wires to become unsoldered.

Here is the info you need--for best efficiency use the lowest advance settings for all of our motors--D or Y. If you want a little more speed you can use up to the middle advance settings with the "Y" type motors. Always use the lowest advance with the "D" motors as advanced timing will not give more speed--only more heat. For more on controller settings check this link: http://www.neumotors.com/Site/FAQs_%26_setup.html

Steve Neu

[m4a1usr]

I obtained a late 2010 1515 1Y which had the flexible silicone wires exiting the motor that had the silicone wire insulation SPLIT just as it passed through the hole in the endbell, exposing the conductive wire inside just where it could contact the metal.

I have seen that to Tony. My fix was to remove the bullets and use either a few layers of heat shrink (at least 2 layers of good/decent Polyolefin HS) or I have some flexable fiberglass tubing (thats got a silicone coating on the exterior) meant for HV wiring that I can slide over the motor leads. Its worked so far. But you definately have to slide it into the motor far enough to go past the end bell lead holes. I think the grommet idea seems the easiest for most of us without extensive resources.

John

[T.S.Davis]

A Steve Neu sighting! Awesome.

FE racers are a suspicious bunch. Evolution scares the b'geezus out of us. We've been misled once or twice over the years. Couple that with a learning curve and we're not the most trusting bunch.

Keep up the good work sir.

[properchopper]

We changed to the flex wire to address problems with wire fatigue due to vibration. It costs more but does reduce the returns for broken wires.


Steve Neu

If this step reduces the wire degradation issues, I'm all for it. BUT, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I obtained a late 2010 1515 1Y which had the flexible silicone wires exiting the motor that had the silicone wire insulation SPLIT just as it passed through the hole in the endbell, exposing the conductive wire inside just where it could contact the metal. Lots of insulating epoxy hand-brushed on the bare wire and then silicone squeezed into the hole around the wire should keep a short from happening, but this particular fix has me a bit nervous I'd suggest the insulating grommets that some of my Neu's have to reduce any problems should this "split" occur in other motors being produced.

[Doug Smock]

We changed to the flex wire to address problems with wire fatigue due to vibration. It costs more but does reduce the returns for broken wires.


Steve Neu

[D. Newland]

I've got the new version 1527 1Y in my Q mono and that runs about 130 amps on average. No issues w/it so far. Delta Force 40, 6S2P, X455 cupped at the tips.

[Steven Vaccaro]

Steve sent me this,




1) For the higher winding motors we have changed the flex wire for the motor leads exiting the motor--this reduced broken wires.
2) changed the motor housing design to allow it to be more easily serviced--bearings can be replaced more easily with both the front and back plates being removable with screws.
3) the mounting bolt pattern now matches that of Lenher and others--M3 for the 25mm bolt circle and M4 for the 30mm bolt circle.


The changes above were made to address issues that we were seeing and as a way to make the motors more "user serviceable" to reduce the need to send the motors back for minor repairs like replacing bearings.

We are making the motors in San Diego! We have not out sourced to China the production.

[sneu@aol.com]

That being said, I'm kinda bummed since I recently sold my awesome 1.5Y neu that was built last year for this motor (wanted more KV vs. more prop)... the leads on the old motor do look a lot better.

Chief

We changed to the flex wire to address problems with wire fatigue due to vibration. It costs more but does reduce the returns for broken wires.


Steve Neu

[sneu@aol.com]

Adds to the suspicion that Steve Neu has outsourced his motors to China!

That is untrue. We are making the motors right here in San Diego.

We will look into the wire solder issue and see what the problem is.

Steve Neu