With the Hydra water jackets this makes a very nice combo, well done
Mhz mystic 114 build
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Way more progress than me though. Looking clean in there.
Here's a tip for the tape at the end of your rudder cables. Go to the bicycle shop, and get genuine Shimano cable crimp ends. The shifter cable diameter ones. I say Shimano, because the non-shimano ones are thin-walled crap.
Or, if ya do the non-Shimano ones, they can come in colours. Then just glue them on instead of crimping.
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You read my mind, I was already planning on hitting up a bike shop this weekend. Didn’t know Shimano ones were better, thank you.Originally posted by BUMBLESPECIMOODA View PostWay more progress than me though. Looking clean in there.
Here's a tip for the tape at the end of your rudder cables. Go to the bicycle shop, and get genuine Shimano cable crimp ends. The shifter cable diameter ones. I say Shimano, because the non-shimano ones are thin-walled crap.
Or, if ya do the non-Shimano ones, they can come in colours. Then just glue them on instead of crimping.
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It's doesn't have to be Shimano, you're after that specific shape and fit. Bumble is right, they're way better. Think soup can sliding over an identical sized cylinder vs. a wool hat over your fist. They both stop the cable end from fraying, but one is a precision fit and looks like it too.Originally posted by PlayerUnknown069 View PostYou read my mind, I was already planning on hitting up a bike shop this weekend. Didn’t know Shimano ones were better, thank you.Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
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The seam
I can't shrink down small enough to get inside the boat, to do a propper lamination to join the hull & deck.
So, I made the seam outside of the hull & deck.
Aluminum tape was used to lay-up against. A 2-layer, 6oz. carbon was used for the seam-fitting skins. These were then reinforced with 4-more layers.
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The Alu tape removed, and acetone-wash to de-gum the areas where the tape was.
Then the outside of the ridgid seperate seam, will be sanded rough for secondary bonding.
It will bond into the hull first, then the rest of the fitting out of the components, floatation, bulkheads, etc. When all done, the deck will be bonded into place.
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If I produced mystic hulls, the seam engineering would be revised, to make joining the hull & deck easier for the techs joining the two, and the outcome would be far better than what is the standard now. Probably internal rubber bladder, to mash the reinforcement onto the hull & deck seam.
I donot blame the techs @ MHZ for shoddy work, I blame the moldseam engineering, that lead to the techs doing the best they can, with what they have.
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Yes, it was molded of the inside of the hull & deck.
The edge of the seam piece will have a gentle rounded or champfered edge. It will go with my "Foot" theme, as you-all will see with my other pieces.
Here's a rendering:
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I might even add 2-layers on the outside of the seam too. Then It truely will be smash-proof.
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A very interesting way of addressing the seam issue, right Ryan? Should be beautifully solid.Originally posted by fweasel View PostWow, that's cool. So you used the hull as a mold to make your seam layup? Will it sit on the surface like a belt line? Will it get blended into the body lines with filler afterwards?
Great work Bumble
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