CF Rigger Build

[ghostofpf1]

Thanks for the input Ghost.

NP...I have some experience with laying up vacuum bagged glider wings with carbon fiber and glass along with some in kevlar.Also a few self made parts for various projects utilizing CF and glass using foam as the mold substrate .
I can't stress enough the importance of heat during the post cure for nice crisp parts.I recently made a nice thick ~3/16" CF sheet to cut a turn fin bracket out of for my predator rigger and forgot to turn on the lamps in the curing box.The result was an apparently cured part that was so soft it could be readily twisted out of shape by relatively gentle pressure.Your resin of choice should come with recommendations regarding curing temps.
You'll find that by cutting your material at a 45 deg bias it will go around corners more readily
HTH
Steve

[j.m.]

Some epoxies do need a heat cure, but others (usually less expensive lam resins) can fully cure at room temp. I'm not saying that heat doesn't hurt, but if you don't have room for a hot box, you should use an epoxy that doesn't require a heated cure.

[Meniscus]

OK, here's an update. The first picture is the raw tub. The second is the basic shape, but has not been smoothed and measured for even dimensions. Note that the front, top will have slightly more angle once it is smoothed.
12-21-08_1033.jpg12-21-08_1218.jpg

[Meniscus]

Next question: How do you cut material such as carbon fiber, ballistic, kevlar, twaron, spectra, etc.? I have cut with a razor blade over many passes in the same spot (12-15 passes) and I've tested the material to see how it lays up. Right now, I need some direction as to how everyone else cuts their various material.

I can't cut with any scissors (industrial or standard), does not cut with wire cutters easily, does not work with Dremel (shreds). So how is everyone else cutting these materials? Next, I think I might take a torch to it! LMAO

Thanks in advance for the input!

[ghostofpf1]

I use scissors that are made for kevlar and have serrated edges so the cloth doesn't slip out of the jaws. Regular serrated scissors may work if you have them at hand already.
hope this helps
Steve

[Meniscus]

hmmmm....I'll have to try that. What about kitchen shears for meat prep? (thinking of what I have immediately available)

I didn't know they have specialty scissors. It looks like I may have to find those.

[Diegoboy]

It is looking very good! Get this thing pond ready already.

[Ub Hauled]

Ben, how fast are you planning in going? I noticed that you have a ncie wedge on the bottom of the hull... that will generate heaps of lift... maybe something you should take under consideration.

[Meniscus]

You mean you didn't see the wings? J/K

I know. I'm thinking that when I create the adjustable front boom, I can adjust the amount of downforce with a adjustable wing on the front. By doing it this way, I'll have the option of more or less lift and can adjust for different COG or different batts. Maybe too much adjustment, but I'll learn.......eventually. LOL

As a final thought, I also have the consideration and adjustment so that I can ensure that the tub doesn't drag while getting up on plane. Maybe I'm silly.

Thanks for noticing and bringing that to my attention.

[ghostofpf1]

hmmmm....I'll have to try that. What about kitchen shears for meat prep? (thinking of what I have immediately available)

I didn't know they have specialty scissors. It looks like I may have to find those.

Try the serrated meat shears first.Failing that these are what you're looking for...http://www.acp-composites.com/acp-ta.htm
I have the 8" multi use shears and can vouch for them cutting light kevlar fabrics in the sub 2 oz range but not sure how long they'd hold up to thicker stuff as the handles are composite and they'd likely flex too much.I use them to cut up to 5.7oz carbon fiber twill with no problem but kevlar is just tougher.
hope this helps
Steve

[Meniscus]

Great info! Thanks.

I think this project will be on temporary hold while I'm rebuilding my truck. Its amazing how a $30 oil pump can bring everything to a halt without warning. No tick, no chatter, or anything, just died when the engine seized due the bearing overheating against the crankshaft. No oil, heat, that's it.

So I'm just bought $1,134 in parts to do the rebuild. At least I know enough to replace the clutch and so forth while I got the engine out! LOL

[Flying Scotsman]

Great info! Thanks.

I think this project will be on temporary hold while I'm rebuilding my truck. Its amazing how a $30 oil pump can bring everything to a halt without warning. No tick, no chatter, or anything, just died when the engine seized due the bearing overheating against the crankshaft. No oil, heat, that's it.

So I'm just bought $1,134 in parts to do the rebuild. At least I know enough to replace the clutch and so forth while I got the engine out! LOL

Ben, Oh my God. What make and year?

Douggie

[Meniscus]

'01 Dodge 1500, 318 w/ M/T, 109k miles.

You should have seen the list that I walked into the parts store with. I am doing everything while the engine is out. That's why its so much. I just can't see putting the engine back in, without doing some things. Its just too easy at this point.

You can see some pictures here

[Meniscus]

Alright, in your personal opinion, what is the preferred water pickup for a rigger such as mine?

In the rudder? Above and behind the prop, in the wash? In a sponson? offset from the hardware mounted against the transom? Another idea?

For the record, I'm not entertaining placing the water pickup in the sponson for this build, nor placing in the bottom of the tub in the back as I'm hoping to have as little as possible on the water's surface. I just want the prop in the water, not the tub.

[Meniscus]

Anyone?