HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build

[boredom.is.me]

I have a lot to learn but you can be sure that I am. I'll probably redo the transom backing plate since I messed up the two upper holes on the transom side. All I need is to just put nuts, but I don't plan on half-@$$ing it.

I can also use the two "pass through" holes as a mounting platform for something else so we'll see.
I wanted to do this for a few reasons.
1) Everything will stay parallel during install.
2) It provides a better bond of clamp on the mounting points.
3) I shouldn't need lock nuts.

I will also cut 2mm depron gaskets to fill any gaps and help seal it.

[boredom.is.me]

I have the original version which is no longer shown. The machine is made for very light duty work. Even hardwoods would stress it. I got this one for a steal, but if I could make my money back on a new build I would, but I can't afford to sink $2k into it with no return. The mark up on these machines are asinine. I'm sure I can build the Shark for $1000, but they want to charge $2,500 (or something like that). I get that they have design time and a few resources in it, but it's not something that calls for that extreme of a price. Not only that, but it was designed by engineers. I went to school for engineering and let me tell you that that is not good. Anyone who actually uses a tool will find it's flaws way quicker than a CAD program will. But I learned enough off of it to know what not to do.

I've been designing my own. Here are 1x2, 2x2, and 2x4, all of which actually exceed nominal travel by about 4" on x/y axis. Integrated vacuum table, proper spindle, proper ball screws, some day...

Ok I'm finished ranting.

[Tamelesstgr]

Wow, that is quite a difference, I looked up that machine, it's not cheap, but is it tailored more towards woodworking?

[boredom.is.me]

Why is your hatch opening partially cut out? Did you opt it like this?

Not at all. The front edge is a safe 9mm at the most narrow part.

In Europe we fit flood chamber to self right the boat, I presume that's why it's not cut out on this boat.


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I didn't even think about that, but who would put a flood chamber on a boat like this?



Here is the difference between a good day and a bad day. Now I just have to tap it. There will be one more similar piece for the rear strut supports. I'm hoping I can trade what I got for the matching set like what's in the picture, but I don't know if they even work on the mono.

produkte_hpr_115_antrieb_1.jpg

[StevenBryant]

In Europe we fit flood chamber to self right the boat, I presume that's why it's not cut out on this boat.


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[Espresso]

Why is your hatch opening partially cut out? Did you opt it like this?

[boredom.is.me]

Thanks. I'm using a CNC shark (which is an utter piece of crap). I tried to apply a two sided bevel which sort of worked. The alignment is very hard to achieve when flipping the model even though it's bolted down and designed as a mirror. It came out usable, but not nearly as nice as it should have been. I'm going to focus on making the other pieces in 1/8" before coming back to the mount.

[Tamelesstgr]

What are you using to machine the brackets, looks darn good by my standards.

[boredom.is.me]

The rudder is on the way.

I started working on some of the mounting hardware. I don't seem to have any luck lately as all of my cuts have completely screwed up lately. The mounting face was the only piece I was able to salvage. I'll try again today. I still have to make a drill jig for the sides of the mount. That is what I'm really nervous above. I haven't done any side drilling yet.

It has also been a week since I heard from Hans. I do a lot of things, but composite body work is not one of them. How do I fill in a 7"x1" recession in the side of the hull? I'm scared of it just peeling away. Quite a few other spots require heavy sanding and filler as well...

http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/Kevon_Ritter/library/boat%20pics?sort=3&page=1

[boredom.is.me]

Out of respect, I will not post any pictures yet. (Ya, I took a crap ton.) For starters, the seams are pretty terrible, at least BOTH of my $76 Daytona 37" from Fightercat were externally better. I thought I'd at least get bolts, nuts, and no rust with my $260 hardware. There was quite a bit more. But like the pictures, I'm going to wait for a response before I expose the actual issues.

What's disappointing me is that I have never heard of a single negative for all the years I've known about HPR. It might not seem like much, but this was honestly one of my dreams from when I first started to venture into boats. It wasn't cheap, but I finally made it happen...I think.

I can't be all negative though. The interior is gorgeous! In fact, it's everything I expected. The hull is also incredibly strong.

[axel]

why?

[boredom.is.me]

I got the hull today. I'm not impressed.

[RunningBeer]

Hi, this is a pic I drew up when I was designing my twin pirate. The small circles are the strut positions exiting the transom at 42mm centers and 55mm centers. The two sets of bigger circles are the two props ( 42 and 55mm). I was either going to do a 4s system with about 42mmprops or a 6S system with the bigger props. If you look at the sketch you will see the larger props go about 5mm deeper....Remember if the struts are parallel, prop depth is kinda dependent on prop size so you want your system to be able to push the props you want. I'm pulling 150 amps max with the 2x4s system and I can fit the rear batt. pack between the tubes. If I built this boat again I would go for 2x 5S and maybe 45mm props. But I am still very happy with itIMGP0796.jpg

[boredom.is.me]

Thank you very much for your input! The hull will be here in a few days. Then I'll be able to get a real perspective.

And like you said, I really want to build it as a twin just for the satisfaction. I'm not looking to race or set any records.

[RunningBeer]

Hi Boredom is me, I have built a twin DF mono with SSS4082 2200KV on 2x 4S. I wanted the motors at 45mm centers so had to make a custom twin cooling jacket and mount. The motor mount I made out of 5mm 100mm ali channel. without the struts going below the water line, you have to work out what size prop you think you can turn with your power. I'm pulling a max of 150 amps on 3 blade 42mm props. with the way the angle works on the hull, you will find that the bigger the props, the deeper they will be in the water, but the further apart they will be. As you have mentioned, the wider out the rudder is mounted, the more effect it has on the hull when turning, and it has to be very long to reach the water turning one way. I made a little mount and attached mine to one of the struts. The twin mono is an elusive beast to get going well but enormously rewarding with sharp turning both ways. You can also run twins quite loose as the torque isn't trying to roll the boat when it leaves the water. There's some photos on my page here of my PirateIMGP0766.jpgIMGP0763.jpgIMGP0771.jpgIMGP0767.jpgIMGP0768.jpg