HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build

[boredom.is.me]

That's a great suggestion on the case. I saw some pretty decent cases locally. I'll check those out first.

I cut everything on an older variant of a Shark CNC. I would really like to upgrade to a stiffer machine, but $$$.

I shortened the wire on the servo which helps a lot.

[Tamelesstgr]

My GOD that thing is clean, great detail

[boredom.is.me]

Haha thanks. Keeping it clean is the main goal. Each and every piece in this build has gone through at least three design iterations just to find (what I think is) the optimal setup.

The led bezels, revised cooling tube holdrrs, and "wire keepers" will be here on Saturday....tomorrow. I have to dye everything black, then will use silicone to secure everything.

I need to make some type of stand to get a reliable CG reading.

The only components needed are the speed controllers. The batteries I have aren't the best, but they will work for now.

I don't see this thing pulling that much current. I'm still doing my deciding on that. I can't trust SF, but they have the best form factor. The Fly/Raider 150 has a good form as well, but may not be enough. The T180 has proven to be a very reliable ESC, but man is it heavy and bulky.

[grsboats]

Boredom the 180 V3 is smaller than the previous V2 and is a good option for your set up..btw nice work involved in this clean project.Gill

[golfito]

Beautiful job!
I have both esc, flycolor and t180. Do not check your weight with a scale. But the t180 v3 itself is rather heavier. But it is smaller than the flycolor. If you want I look for a photo comparing them.

[boredom.is.me]

Thanks guys.

It would appear as though someone got a hold of all of my information and placed an order for two T180's and a programming card. Oh well, guess I might as well use them when they get to my address that was stolen from me. I should be more careful.

The only thing left is flotation and props. I'll be starting with a pair of cnc X445.

[785boats]

Don't you hate it when people do that to you.
At least they sent them to the right address eh!

I'm using a pair of the T180 v3 ESCs in my twin mono. They tuck up out of the way quite easily.They are handling the CNC 4614/3 blade props easily. although it must be said that the T600 outrunners are only 1330kv, not 1580kv like yours.

Looking forward to seeing this boat on the water.

[boredom.is.me]

I'm really curious to see how far I can go with this setup. My spacing between shaft centers is 55mm, but I only ever planned on maxing props at 50mm.

I didn't like the antenna options out there, so I made my own. It isn't threaded, but should be fine.
The wire holders are on top.
The watercooling tube holders.
LED bezels...

Those tiny impellers are for my 10mm jet drive, that's sitting on the side.



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[boredom.is.me]

All nice and black now. They took the dye surprisingly well. #stealth



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[fweasel]

Those turned out great. Are they nylon?

[boredom.is.me]

So not great news, but not bad either. They turned out to be a solid grey. It seems they were only black because they were wet. I may try spraying them clear. That should give them the black look. It's actually kind of interesting. The color is really determined by "orientation" during the print. Some sections are pure black, while others are just grey, but it's all uniform. This is the material. https://www.shapeways.com/materials/...detail-plastic

Next dilemma; I only have one antenna, but I've always liked the look of two. I feel like a single just makes the boat look like a toy. I may go with a second as a dummy.

I still haven't tabbed the front of the hatch. As soon as that is done, I'll start getting the paint job figured out. As you guys can see, I like very simple and straight forward. The flame and lightning paint jobs look really sick, but aren't me. I was thinking a white bottom with a blue-ish grey side and top. Possibly some red accents I got the decals in both silver and white. BUT on the other hand, I just had a "brilliant" idea of large print digital camo wrapping it. Decisions...

[TheShaddix]

Looking super clean! I never liked the look and color of kevlar, but in your case it works very well. Goes without saying, your work is really clean and precise. It's quite rare to see that in this hobby. Usually people slap things onto the hull just to get it going, with yellow epoxy runs everywhere, etc. Also, I think having 2 antennae will make the boat look even more like a toy. How about some sort of a flush type of antenna? Or do you really need a lot of range?

[boredom.is.me]

Much appreciated. Everything I build (plane, boat, heli, whatever) is an extension of me and an opportunity to do something different. That's my thought process.

Immediately after your post, I started scheming different antennas. I went with your idea first by having just a bar sitting either on or directly behind the canopy bulge. The second idea was a knife blade (think Spektrum Dx2e/Dx4c). Both options would have to be at least 35mm long to accommodate the exposed end. The third idea was to make an easily removable bracket inside the hull itself. It would extend the antenna under the canopy which does not have any carbon in the layup. The major downside is that it defeats the aesthetic work I put into the interior. I'm curious to know how much range would be lost by laying it flat.

[TheShaddix]

What radio do you use? With my futaba I use an air receiver, it gets a lot of range and just needs to have the exposed end sticking out, flat or vertical it makes little difference. By the time the boat is far enough to be out of range, you can barely see it anyway. I just use a water outlet instead of an antenna post since I transport them in a bag, so I can't have anything stick out too much. I still use a plastic straw tube but it's about 2" long, 1" into the hull. To be frank, it looks tacky and definitely ruins the aesthetics. You can get away with that on a cheap boat, but not a high end build like yours. But i've thought about making a flush "fin" type of antenna like you mentioned. I think that would be the best option. I just don't know yet how to make that blend in and not look like an afterthought.

[boredom.is.me]

What radio do you use? With my futaba I use an air receiver, it gets a lot of range and just needs to have the exposed end sticking out, flat or vertical it makes little difference. By the time the boat is far enough to be out of range, you can barely see it anyway. I just use a water outlet instead of an antenna post since I transport them in a bag, so I can't have anything stick out too much. I still use a plastic straw tube but it's about 2" long, 1" into the hull. To be frank, it looks tacky and definitely ruins the aesthetics. You can get away with that on a cheap boat, but not a high end build like yours. But i've thought about making a flush "fin" type of antenna like you mentioned. I think that would be the best option. I just don't know yet how to make that blend in and not look like an afterthought.

And my eyesight isn't exactly excellent for someone my age. I'm still going to play around with the fin idea. I'm using a Spektrum Dx4c. Well I just got it last week to replace the older Dx2e that I gave away.



I drilled two 3mm holes in the canopy for pins. I'll slide 3mm CF rod into 1/8" id something. I have aluminum, but it's really soft. Brass is the next option, but will it corrode as soon as it touches salt? It's going to be running in fresh, but I do plan on taking it back home to the VI for a summer. With that said, stainless becomes another option. I would most likely have to order it though. The final option would be plastic. (I know I'm over thinking it......again.)

The reason for allowing a slight play is to help with getting a proper seal when installing the hatch.

For the seal, I am planning on using 1/8" thick x 1/4" wide foam weather stripping. I'll apply it as tight against the side walls on the hatch opening as well as an offset strip on the hatch itself. That way, it should be seal to seal and not "I hope the hatch presses in enough".



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