H&M Intruder twin build

[tlandauer]

Hi Keith, Thanks for chiming in!
Yes I do have a cut off wheel and I know what you mean! Thanks! I didn't want to drill holes because may be I am using the wrong drill bits, they all get dull after three or four holes, and I use Milwaukee and DeWalt good drill bits...
Sorry to drift off topic, may be I can be enlightened a bit here.

[srislash]

Do you have a cutoff wheel Tim? Just sanding that servo mount should be fine, but if you're not comfortable with it and don't want to drill holes you could score a line down the side. Go up maybe 1/8" from the base and score a horizontal line with a cutoff wheel. It doesn't have to be very deep, just .010"-.020" would be enough to give your epoxy something extra to "bite" onto. When you glue it in just epoxy right over the top and slightly above your scored line.

Good plan for that extra measure Keith.
Tim, I have been using Milwaukee titanium bit with good luck.

[Fella1340]

You should look up drill bit sharpening on YouTube. With a little practice you will find it easy enough. Light pressure when drilling, let the drill bit do the work will also prolong the drill bit edge. The Milwaukee and dewalt drill bits are of average quality. Some lots are better than others, the older ones being much better than what's available today. Titanium coating is better as a marketing campaign than actual drilling. After the first few holes the titanium is gone of the cutting edges and your basically left with a shiny drilling no better than the uncoated ones. Anyways, a cheap bench grinder and learning to sharpen drill bits will save you money and a lot of grief in the long run. Once you get basic sharpening skills down you can start adjusting cutting angles best suited to the material. Once you can do your own sharpening it really makes drilling any material an easy task and is worth the time spent learning!

[tlandauer]

Thanks Fella1340,
I agree, it is always good to have that skill, it occurred to me as I was driving to Home Depot at 10:00PM last night to buy replacement drill bits. lol...
I might have been doing a wrong, but I thought I did let the drill bit "bite" first before giving slight pressure, I start the pilot hole with a special tool, then always use 1/16 , then step up to whichever size I need. On these CF plates, I dull the drill bits after several holes. Stupid question: I know they are harder then FG, but is the carbon /graphite very abrasive?
Yes, I use these so-called Ti-coating drill bits, they are the only ones I see.

[tlandauer]

Good plan for that extra measure Keith.
Tim, I have been using Milwaukee titanium bit with good luck.

I must be doing something wrong....
Thanks, glad to know that if handled properly they work.

[Fella1340]

For holes 13mm or so or and under you just need to drill your pilot hole (2-3mm or whatever you got) and then your finished size. Easing up on pressure as it's ready to exit the Cf will stop it from grabbing. A water based coolant helps lot to, I have used oil based coolant in a pinch but it can be messy. If your using 4-5 different drills sizes to get to a 13mm (or whatever) it will dull the drills very quickly. They don't like it when all the pressure is out on the very edge of the drill, heat builds really fast and ruins the edge. If it's sharp it will also tend to grab. I'm going on here a bit long but I've drilled countless holes in just about everything as a part of my day job. If I'm using a drill press I will rarely use more than a pilot hole and finished drill size in anything up to 5/8" or so(keep the drill lubricated). Occasionally a third drill might be used if thecmaterial is giving me trouble. I'll stop now!

[tlandauer]

For holes 13mm or so or and under you just need to drill your pilot hole (2-3mm or whatever you got) and then your finished size. Easing up on pressure as it's ready to exit the Cf will stop it from grabbing. A water based coolant helps lot to, I have used oil based coolant in a pinch but it can be messy. If your using 4-5 different drills sizes to get to a 13mm (or whatever) it will dull the drills very quickly. They don't like it when all the pressure is out on the very edge of the drill, heat builds really fast and ruins the edge. If it's sharp it will also tend to grab. I'm going on here a bit long but I've drilled countless holes in just about everything as a part of my day job. If I'm using a drill press I will rarely use more than a pilot hole and finished drill size in anything up to 5/8" or so(keep the drill lubricated). Occasionally a third drill might be used if thecmaterial is giving me trouble. I'll stop now!

Thank you for the knowledge! Appreciate your time. I will pay more attention and correct my technique so to speak!

[Heath M]

One of these might last you longer than standard drill bits http://www.bunnings.com.au/drill-bit...40250_p6350059
or even a set of these http://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-gla...-pack_p6360184 for smaller holes.

[tlandauer]

One of these might last you longer than standard drill bits http://www.bunnings.com.au/drill-bit...40250_p6350059
or even a set of these http://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-gla...-pack_p6360184 for smaller holes.

Interesting products, I now some people use step drill bits.
The high speed steel should be better, none of the drill bits i bought actually says that. Although I think they are. I agree with one post that says the quality is not as good as the old ones. I have no problem with any other boat related usages except when it comes to drilling on CF. It is the tip that gets dulled and I think heat is to blame. The new ones gets to work and the CG dust piles up immediately around the hole, then after a few holes I see less and less dust until it just sits there.

[Heath M]

Try drilling on slow speed to keep the heat down, i know this works best when drilling stainless.

[srislash]

Try drilling on slow speed to keep the heat down, i know this works best when drilling stainless.

Ditto.

[Fella1340]

Something to consider is purchasing a "drill doctor". They take the mystery out of sharpening drills and are easy to use. A regular high speed drill bit can be sharpened dozens of times (likely much more), add up all the dull drills you have and the value of having one will be very apparent. If buying drill bits they range in quality from high speed steel, coated high speed steel like titanium (the benefit of titanium only lasts till it's dull, it's just a regular drill after resharpening, cobalt (good value for a tough drill), then carbide (to brittle for hand drills but long lasting). They all get dull eventually so I just stick with my dormer high speed drill bits for Cf.

[tlandauer]

Try drilling on slow speed to keep the heat down, i know this works best when drilling stainless.

Ditto.

Thanks, I shall remember that, appreciate your advice!

[tlandauer]

Something to consider is purchasing a "drill doctor". They take the mystery out of sharpening drills and are easy to use. A regular high speed drill bit can be sharpened dozens of times (likely much more), add up all the dull drills you have and the value of having one will be very apparent. If buying drill bits they range in quality from high speed steel, coated high speed steel like titanium (the benefit of titanium only lasts till it's dull, it's just a regular drill after resharpening, cobalt (good value for a tough drill), then carbide (to brittle for hand drills but long lasting). They all get dull eventually so I just stick with my dormer high speed drill bits for Cf.

I hear you! I understand now the various steels that are used in making drill bits! I will look into the "drill doctor", good thing I saved all the dull ones!

[tlandauer]

My sincere apologies to those of you who have given me input on how to attach the servo mount. But I can't get this idea out of my head , not because I don't value your collective opinions. DSCN7376.jpgDSCN7380.jpg
The low profile servo came today, it sits nice and low with the rods attached for a mock up: DSCN7390.jpgDSCN7400.jpg
ready for JB Weld:DSCN7403.jpg