How is she coming bud?
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Originally posted by srislash View Post
All work, no play!
Thanks for asking, need to drill the tear drop holes for the pick up, but didn't want to screw up so waiting to have quality time.
Too many boats, not enough time...
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Oh, I hear you on that one. Nice thing about these is that they can wait and they don't take up the driveway up on blocks or anything(I used to play with cars/4x4's).Originally posted by tlandauer View Post All work, no play!
Thanks for asking, need to drill the tear drop holes for the pick up, but didn't want to screw up so waiting to have quality time.Comment
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Got a bit of time today ( yesterday
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Shawn, I have to thank you for your help and especially with the idea of the water pick ups.
I wanted individual cooling for the two ESCs but the TFL dual p/u rudder not only is too long and wide, but it is ugly, IMO anyway.
My next move was going to install the ride pad p/u, but the hull is somewhat small and I did not want to make a square opening on the pads and then find out some nasty surprises later. At this point I asked Shawn what would be the logical step and he pointed to a couple of his builds and some other ideas from other people. Here was my "practice run" on two different sizes, 5/32 and 3/16. This is nothing new for you experienced guys, but was a new lesson for me
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DSCN7341.jpg DSCN7344.jpg DSCN7350.jpgDSCN7358.jpg DSCN7357.jpg
I settled for 5/32 because i can bend the brass tube by inserting a discarded .150 cable. I will step up to 3/16 once the p/u is inside the hull.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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I epoxied some 3mm thick G-10 FG plate for support inside:DSCN7347.jpg , here is a mock up:DSCN7351.jpgDSCN7354.jpg
Due to the low over hang and my unwillingness to cut up the hull, the standard servo in its mount would mean that I have to bend the rudder push/pull rods at an angle greater than 45* ( Been advised to keep these bends less than that to prevent deflection) in order for them to meet the servo arm/horns. DSCN7365.jpg , after some research, I will use Futaba's S9551 low profile servo, a bit expensive, but every bit helps.DSCN7367.jpgToo many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Gathering some measurement and idea for a low profile mount. I will use the aluminum lateral from the TFL mount, i think...
DSCN7366.jpgToo many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Looks good Tim. 5/32 will be plenty of cooling tube. I have trimmed those CF sides down on those servo mounts to get them squated down better. The sanding disc comes in handy there. There is also nothing wrong with making your own side pieces.
Where did you get your G-10?
Ps, I am glad to be of help my friend, thank you.Comment
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Tim, why not lay the servo down on its side to avoid the excessive pushrod bend. Just use two cheap servos, one on each rod. Looks like you have the room.
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Thanks! I think I got the FG G-10 here(it's been awhile, never have good memory): http://www.mcmaster.com/#grade-g-10-phenolic/=vg7cf6Originally posted by srislash View Post
I would need to cut half of the side plate and loose the bottom portion, either I cut two strips of CF or FG to beef it up or do a mount from the ground up. Got sometime to think it over.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Fluid, thanks for your input, my initial thought was to have a servo lay down on its side, and just have the other rod as a cosmetic idle arm. Using two servos would have been a great idea but honestly I wasn't smart enough to think about that in the first place....Originally posted by Fluid View Post
Will see how it goes after I cut some plates, it does look like there is more room in the picture than there is in reality when I placed two servos there now.
Thanks for selling the hull to me, hope you don't mind my butchering up this hull...
Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Well, I forgot to mention that I had already ordered the servo before reading these posts this morning, so I went ahead and made a hybrid mount, retaining TFL's aluminum lateral support.DSCN7373.jpg
I tried cutting down the original, here is how they look:DSCN7368.jpg
It sits much lower in the hull:DSCN7374.jpg DSCN7375.jpgToo many boats, not enough time...Comment
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How should I attach the "legs" on the mount?
I don't feel comfortable mounting the thin rail onto the floor, I thought of adding some extra material for the epoxy to grab. I didn't want to drill a roll of holes as I am wearing out my drill bits ( 2 sets already) on the CF plate.
I don't know which way will be better and more practical:
DSCN7370.jpg DSCN7371.jpg
Picture 1 is prettier, but not so crazy about the 90* attachment .
Picture 2 allows good attachment to the rails and still provides a bigger area on the bottom for epoxy.
Any suggestions are appreciated!Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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How about small pieces of cloth on the inside corners Tim. I have yet to bust any of my servo mounts out and I don't even do the cloth as mentioned. I have cut down the stock mounts or made my own with new little holes for epoxy flow thru.
PS: and you know I DO blow things over.Comment
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Originally posted by srislash View Post
Thanks!
I will have to wait for the servo to come and do a mock up, I cut the plates according to the spec found on the Futaba web site, and I did it pretty tight, don't know if there is any clearance inside the rails. Can always shim it up with washers.
I guess I think I am building a bridge all the time, good thing I am not building a plane...
Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Do you have a cutoff wheel Tim? Just sanding that servo mount should be fine, but if you're not comfortable with it and don't want to drill holes you could score a line down the side. Go up maybe 1/8" from the base and score a horizontal line with a cutoff wheel. It doesn't have to be very deep, just .010"-.020" would be enough to give your epoxy something extra to "bite" onto. When you glue it in just epoxy right over the top and slightly above your scored line.Comment
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