Darin's Top Speed 2 FE Conversion...

[CarolHazlett]

After seeing the different options I think I will go with the added spacer. Since my hubby has a milling machine he can make the spacer. I chose this way so I could easily replace my motor with a spare at the pond if "stuff" happens during a race. If Bill uses aluminum for the spacer it should be fairly light in weight.

[ice329]

Ran my TS2 today. I tell ya its so stable it seems slow. hahah after all that building...ahhhhh yaaaaaa its ok...hahha I put it up and grabed one of my SV's and had some fun....

I think I may have to readjust the weight a bit, it seems a little nose heavy. Maybe after I adjust it some more I will like it better...

[Darin Jordan]

Ran my TS2 today. I tell ya its so stable it seems slow. hahah after all that building...ahhhhh yaaaaaa its ok...hahha I put it up and grabed one of my SV's and had some fun....

I think I may have to readjust the weight a bit, it seems a little nose heavy. Maybe after I adjust it some more I will like it better...

ICE... Make it LOOSE! The recommended settings in the instructions are too tight for the SV27 setup... Push the motor down some and get that thing running on the very backs of the sponsons... You should be able to approach 40 with it (37-38mph) after some tuning and with the right prop... and depending on which cells you are using (weight is a factor...)...

They are the most fun when racing closely together! NOT so stable then!!

[ice329]

I have to loosen it up. I am a fan of running loose. I have to do some alterations...heheh to get it there. I was using the X642 and the Batterys are real nice its just I tryed to keep the original box and house the packs in there but Its just to much up front. I have to rebiuld that whole thing... uggg Just not in the mood. Maybe the next rainy week. In the mean time I will drop the motor a little and trim it up.

ALSO I want the motor bracket you guys got... I shouldnt have cheaped out with the dubro... what is the name of yours.

[FinzUp]

Hello Darin I just picked up a Top Speed 2 and have been reading your thread. Have you run the REK unit yet and if so how did it work? I have a friend that also just got one and we both are all about SPEED and FE Boats. Can you help us out with some heads up? Thanks Bill G. AKA FinzUp

[Fast Guy]

Read all of Darin's Top Speed 2 FE Conversion and here is a build I did. Brushless Top Speed 2 Should answer most of your questions.

[justneedspeed]

fastguy what kind of outrunner are you using i like that look alot?Also could you post a link if you have one? I cant seem to find it. Thanks

[FinzUp]

Read all of Darin's Top Speed 2 FE Conversion and here is a build I did. Brushless Top Speed 2 Should answer most of your questions.

Thanks for the info we will go & wear it out

[Fast Guy]

fastguy what kind of outrunner are you using i like that look alot?Also could you post a link if you have one? I cant seem to find it. Thanks

I'm not sure if by outrunner you mean the lower as the motor is from a SuperVee and it is an inrunner. The lower leg is an REK from Fullers Fast Electrics

SuperVee Motor

Carbon Outboard Lower.

[justneedspeed]

The outboard runner, thanks man that helped alot

[CarolHazlett]

Did anybody else use the complete Ray Fuller's outboard kit? I mounted mine and used the the swivel plate and shims that came with it and had no trouble getting my prop level and at the right height according to the TS2 setup instructions in the manual, but that leaves the steering arms below the transom. I changed my 3/16 motor spacer from one under the motor to one between the motor mount and lower unit and cleared the transom a little bit but I will still have to use ball links or something to bring my steering linkage high enough to make a working connecion to the servo. Has anybody else encountered this or do I have an unseen major screw-up going on? What did others do? Thanx ahead.

[CarolHazlett]

Here are pics of what I was talking about earlier. One shows my mounting. The centerline of the prop is 1/8 inch from the bottom of the sponsons when it is in a completely nuetral position as per directions but you can see in the other picture this leaves the steering arms below the transom. A 3/16 spacer only gives a very marginal clearance over the transom.

[properchopper]

re :

Here's what I did. Made the aluminum plate to keep the stress off the composite ears. Get a high torque servo !

[Darin Jordan]

Carol,

Here is what I did... If you intend to use that stock REK mount, I think you may want to think about lopping the top off of that mounting section there at the back... I think there is wood structure underneath... I've seen others cut it down then just cap it with a piece of ply... I never considered these clearance problems because all of the mounts I use have backset...

If you don't want to cut on the hull... maybe go get yourself a Dubro 3.5 mount, which will set the motor back a tad and give you some steering clearance... and better handling...

Looking at your pics again... I'd say just trim down the top of the transom cap and glue a piece of ply on... that should get you the turning clearance you need... Kind of like the second pics of Fast Guy's yellow TS-2 shown on the first page of this thread... ( http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2001BatBox.jpg )

[ice329]

After I install the new jack plate I want to give the the TS2 with SV guts another try without moving the battery box... I think I will get more adjustment. Used a X642 the first trys and actually thought there might be a better choice of props. Anyone can suggeat one that will keep the nose up better. Maybe some type of 3 blade or...?

If this dont work then I will just have to tear into rebuilding the boxes so I can move the packs back farther.