Darin's Top Speed 2 FE Conversion...
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Did you get it? They are alot of fun to run,and fun to build.!!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUteIPgYuAE Crappy video of mine.
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ok thanks!! Im trying to win one on ebay, and if so Ill be following pretty much the setup
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Originally posted by calcagno45 View PostDarin, in this picture, can you tell me what sizes of tubing did you use? Thanks
I don't really remember... I think the water lines are 5/32"... The three for the ESC wires are "big enough to fit the contacts w/ shrink through", and kind of the same deal on the steering... They were all just bits and pieces from my brass tubing box...
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Darin, in this picture, can you tell me what sizes of tubing did you use? ThanksAttached Files
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Out Board
Originally posted by pmisuinas View PostWell, I have a really basic question since I can't seem to find it searching on my own...
Where did you guys get your outboards? The only thing I can find is the Aquacraft EP-1 and Graupner--is this what you are using with different motors? TIA...Pete M
try this link as it is a REK unit for 89.99 fuller Hardware
The rest is up to you
Also follow all the Build links
Good luck.
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Well, I have a really basic question since I can't seem to find it searching on my own...
Where did you guys get your outboards? The only thing I can find is the Aquacraft EP-1 and Graupner--is this what you are using with different motors? TIA...Pete M
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After I install the new jack plate I want to give the the TS2 with SV guts another try without moving the battery box... I think I will get more adjustment. Used a X642 the first trys and actually thought there might be a better choice of props. Anyone can suggeat one that will keep the nose up better. Maybe some type of 3 blade or...?
If this dont work then I will just have to tear into rebuilding the boxes so I can move the packs back farther.
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Carol,
Here is what I did... If you intend to use that stock REK mount, I think you may want to think about lopping the top off of that mounting section there at the back... I think there is wood structure underneath... I've seen others cut it down then just cap it with a piece of ply... I never considered these clearance problems because all of the mounts I use have backset...
If you don't want to cut on the hull... maybe go get yourself a Dubro 3.5 mount, which will set the motor back a tad and give you some steering clearance... and better handling...
Looking at your pics again... I'd say just trim down the top of the transom cap and glue a piece of ply on... that should get you the turning clearance you need... Kind of like the second pics of Fast Guy's yellow TS-2 shown on the first page of this thread... ( http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2001BatBox.jpg )Attached FilesLast edited by Darin Jordan; 03-11-2008, 10:25 AM.
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re :
Here's what I did. Made the aluminum plate to keep the stress off the composite ears. Get a high torque servo !Attached Files
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Here are pics of what I was talking about earlier. One shows my mounting. The centerline of the prop is 1/8 inch from the bottom of the sponsons when it is in a completely nuetral position as per directions but you can see in the other picture this leaves the steering arms below the transom. A 3/16 spacer only gives a very marginal clearance over the transom.
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Did anybody else use the complete Ray Fuller's outboard kit? I mounted mine and used the the swivel plate and shims that came with it and had no trouble getting my prop level and at the right height according to the TS2 setup instructions in the manual, but that leaves the steering arms below the transom. I changed my 3/16 motor spacer from one under the motor to one between the motor mount and lower unit and cleared the transom a little bit but I will still have to use ball links or something to bring my steering linkage high enough to make a working connecion to the servo. Has anybody else encountered this or do I have an unseen major screw-up going on? What did others do? Thanx ahead.
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