Build pics of my Aeromarine Titan 33

[coppellmaniac]

I'm new...so just getting into this but can you explain the painting process. What kind of base? top coat etc and did the body shop do all the spraying?

[forescott]

I would drop that prop size down to a 440 or 442 before you run that new motor, and make sure that cable spins real easy by hand before tightening the coupler. Get the coupler nice and tight too! My flex shafts slide up towards the motor sometimes when I don't get the coupler really tight. When I bring it in, the drive dog is right against the strut.(not good!) Keeping my fingers crossed!! Good luck!

[forescott]

Oh yeah, make sure your getting a good stream of water coming out the side of the hull. You've got 3-coolers on 1-line so there may not be enough h20 pressure to push through all those coolers effectively. Make a couple of close passes on your initial run so you can be sure there is a good amount of water coming out.

[Chuck E Cheese]

yes, make sure you are leaving a gap from the drive dog to the strut. rule of thumb is that the gap should be equil to the diameter of the cable. also make sure that the coupler is not too close to the motor because under load it can also bind there. even if it spins free on the dock, when the torque of the prop the shaft winds tighter and shrinks in legnth.

[Jesse J]

Osh, sorry to hear your motor blues - been there smelt that. I had similar issues with a DF33 and ended up going black...1527 Neu that is. I agree with the drivedog distance for sure, but my guess is you need mo bigga motah. I would think one of those discounted Castle/neu 1520s would be a minimum - that way you can turn a big prop with lots of juice. I haven't had good luck with Feigaos in big models. If it were me, I'd drop one of those 1717s in there then you know you are gonna be OK.

good luck
J

[JMSCARD]

I agree with you jesse... I have a 1521 1y in my df33... stays nice and cool... warmest has been 118 degrees on 6s with a x445... I killed a esc with this motor but only because of a mad hop in the turns before I installed turn fins..... anyhow I love the 1521 on both 5 and 6s.... 6s gets me 60mph while 5s sees just over 50....

I see this is a titan and not a delta force...my bad... but close to the same size hull...guess I need to pay closer attention... I like the color!!!

[OshkoshMono]

Oh yeah, make sure your getting a good stream of water coming out the side of the hull. You've got 3-coolers on 1-line so there may not be enough h20 pressure to push through all those coolers effectively. Make a couple of close passes on your initial run so you can be sure there is a good amount of water coming out.

I was wondering the same thing. I think that water cooled mount is kinda dumb. It's so fat it's hard to get the coupler on the shaft far enough. But ya, the stream isn't great...kinda weak. I thought about adding a 2nd pickup/outlet. I wonder if I'm gonna need to get a whole new mount to fit a bigger motor anyway, but then my flex probably wont line up right....

[OshkoshMono]

Osh, sorry to hear your motor blues - been there smelt that. I had similar issues with a DF33 and ended up going black...1527 Neu that is. I agree with the drivedog distance for sure, but my guess is you need mo bigga motah. I would think one of those discounted Castle/neu 1520s would be a minimum - that way you can turn a big prop with lots of juice. I haven't had good luck with Feigaos in big models. If it were me, I'd drop one of those 1717s in there then you know you are gonna be OK.

good luck
J

Dang, looks like those 1717s are out of stock. Any idea on what new would fit in my mount if any? I kinda wana get rid of the water cooled part of the mount, but not sure how to change that and not have to re-do my flex alignment ( I used a LOT of epoxy).

[OshkoshMono]

yes, make sure you are leaving a gap from the drive dog to the strut. rule of thumb is that the gap should be equil to the diameter of the cable. also make sure that the coupler is not too close to the motor because under load it can also bind there. even if it spins free on the dock, when the torque of the prop the shaft winds tighter and shrinks in legnth.

Thanks for the tip. I think that was part of it, and like Scott said, my flew also migrated into the coupler farther. I tried to tighten the coupler more, then it snapped off and I had to use the dremel cutoff disc to get the couple off the flex shaft.... That was sweet....

[Jesse J]

You should be OK with that mount, most motors are 1" spacing, so you should not be limited much by that. Did you check the Castle site?

[OshkoshMono]

You should be OK with that mount, most motors are 1" spacing, so you should not be limited much by that. Did you check the Castle site?

Oh, ya...duh...it looks like they are available from castle. Only $70..that's cheap. So with the fins on the motor, no water jacket needed? Not sure how to support the back of it though since my mount only fits 36mm motors. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80210
Hmmmm... I feel like I'm trying to do a puzzle with missing pieces.

[OshkoshMono]

Would this be a good (but expensive..) choice? http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...u-1527&cat=117 1.5D 1500 Kv *5mm Shaft
That $70 castle sounds good too...

[forescott]

Ose sells the jackets for the finned castle motors.(you'll have to get in line though!) You may be able to cut and mod your existing rear mount to work for the castle. I like the castle for the price!

[OshkoshMono]

Ose sells the jackets for the finned castle motors.(you'll have to get in line though!) You may be able to cut and mod your existing rear mount to work for the castle. I like the castle for the price!

Ya, thats a great price for a castle! I'm still wondering if I need a new flex cable with a longer stub/prop shaft to reach farther into the stinger strut. The stinger has the brass bushing/bearing with grease holes in it, but the grease holes start about 3/4" in and continue to about 2.5" into the stinger. My octura propshaft only goes in about an inch and contacts only the first grease hole. I'm wondering if the propshaft almost de-stabilizes at high rpm since it's not supported as much as a 2 to 2.5" prop shaft would be, as well as being starved of grease???

[Chuck E Cheese]

did you cut the prop shaft? if not move the drive dog back as farr as possable and it should be ok. i use the hughly shafts which are tapered and only have a small contact and they work fine in the speedmaster stinger.. as long as everything is tight you ony need a small contact. can you wiggle it with your hand?