ML Boatworks 1/8th Scale 171 Extreme Build Miss Elam

[Speed810]

Finally back on track

Well still not feeling completely up to par, but had to get out there and get some work done since all these parts started coming in.....

Finished the bottom sheeting on the port sponson....now to add the trailing sheeting.
Finished doing some preliminary filling on the starboard sponson and completed the reinforcement and sealing of the inside of the sponson. Used West System epoxy along with glass cloth on the ride pad area and used to carbon fiber veil material to help along the sponson sides. Working with these materials was actually very easy and seemed to really make that sposnon rock solid.

Cut and fit a 1/8" piece of aluminum plate for the transom. Measured and laid out the rudder, wing support plate and water inlets. Drilled and mounted the rudder assembly and water inlets.

Also cut the 1/4" aluminum back plate for the turn fin. Just waiting on some information on location for the turn fin. I think I have it figured out, but want to be sure before drilling holes...LOL

Hope to have more done tomorrow.

Mike

[Speed810]

Pictures of some of the transom work.

[don ferrette]

Also cut the 1/4" aluminum back plate for the turn fin. Just waiting on some information on location for the turn fin. I think I have it figured out, but want to be sure before drilling holes...LOL
Mike

More pics are now en route to your email inbox.

[Speed810]

Thanks Don..... Gottem!


Was starting to look at weight and balance on this boat....WOW.! What is the avaerage weight that your 1/8 scales have been coming in at? (Batt, included) Right now I am possibly looking at right around 13.5 to 14 lbs. Seems like that is really heavy. Of course I'm used to picking up my little UL-1 all the time...LOL

Thanks

Mike

[T.S.Davis]

That's pretty good actually. My T Plus is a leviathan.

[785boats]

Mike.
My U-95 is just a smidge under 15lb, & my U-36 Lauterbach is 13.75lb. Both on 8s1p ready to run.

[Speed810]

Thanks Terry and Paul....Guess I'm not sitting to bad then on 10S1P and the bigger 6000Mah. Guess we'll see where it falls whne everything is painted and hardware attahced.

Terry any word on the Feb. meeting for MMEU?

Mike

[Speed810]

Making more progress

Making progress....earlier this week finished the port sponson work. The trailing sheeting and the re-enforcement glassing on the inside are complete. Completed the initial work on the front canard system with 5/32 brass tubing and 5/32 rod as the hinge points on both sides of the center section and each sponson. Just some finish sanding and I'll be close to assembling the sponsons to the center section.

Once the motor mount arrives I'll start getting the center section laid out for the mount, stuffing tube and battery lay out. Then be bale to lay out the additional bulkheads and compartments for the center section.

If anybody sees anything that I may have missed before assembling the sponsons to the center section please feel free to let me know......

The finish on this boat will be in the Da-Glo Orange, but having a difficult time finding the right color. Anyone know of a good auto paint shop that can mix for this color? Been hunting all over the place and no luck yet.....

Also not sure if I am balancing this boat right, but I have been using a 3/8 steel rod directly under the back of the sponsons and adding/deleting weight as needed to get the proper CG. Has anyone got any other systems they use to balance their boats?

Appreciate the information

Mike

[don ferrette]

The paint code for the day-glo orange is House of Kolors NE-103.

[Speed810]

Thanks Don.....Did you just have that laying around or what???....LOL


(Actually was just looking it up and I see a NE-503, but no 103. Think its probably the same one?)

[Speed810]

Some work done this weekend

Finally able to get back out to the shop and get some more work done.

Most of Friday night and Sat. spent on the sponson shoes. Decided to get the lightest hard wood possible (Poplar) and cut and shaped the shoes, then epoxied them in place to the sponson. Actually I think they came out looking pretty good after the final sanding.

Sponson Shoe 1.JPGSponson Shoe 2.JPG


Most of today was spent on some center section hardware installations. Mounted the servo tray and servo for the rudder and completed all the linkage connections. Will still need to install a push rod support toward the rear to eliminate most of the push rod flex. Also routed and installed some aluminum water coolant lines for the motor and ESC. The motor mount is about complete and should have that next week so I can start on the motor installation and driveline.

Servo 1.JPGServo 2.JPGServo 3.JPG


I'm at the point of permanently epoxying the sponsons to the main center section....So hopefully that gets done tomorrow. Then add the flotation to the center section.

For some of you guys that have completed an 1/8 scale....when it comes to the top sheeting. It was suggested that I sheet the top in 2 separate sheets to meet in the middle of the boat. Now I can see where that would probably be easier and it would certainly make things stronger by tying in the center section and sponson side.
This also seems to have some draw backs when trying to cut straight lines for the various compartments and hatches. Anyone have a preference or different ways they do this. I know looking at Don's boat that the sponsons tops were done first and then the center section was finished off, making it look like it made things a bit easier to make the hatches and hatch wells.

Appreciate any ideas you guys may have.

Mike

[Speed810]

Also completed the ETTI ESC modification today. That was real interesting....LOL The nipples were removed and then came the task of drilling out the heat sinks to accept the 5/32 brass tubes. Well I didn't think that I could free hand drill the heat sinks out so thought lets use the drill press.....WRONG!!!! Don't even try this....I don't know what I was thinking. Anyway the first hole I was drilling I accidently got the heat sink off center by a tad and it started popping through the top of the heat sink. Immediately stop and went with the hand drill. Much better control and finished everything with the hand drill...as long as you take your time and keep it centered its really not that bad. Even with the small poke through, I don't think its much of a problem and it will still function quite well. I used some thermal silver epoxy to install the brass tubes and their done. You'll have to use a small round file to work the heat sink holes so the brass slides in a bit easier. Make sure to rough up the brass and clean it well before epoxying in place.

You'll see me Oopps below that I put a small bit of epoxy over that area that broke through.....

ESC 1.JPGESC 2.JPG

[785boats]

Mike.
With the servo rod, I have in the past epoxied a length of carbon fiber tube over it from just befor the servo horn along to the bellows. They don't flex then.

I like to cut the hatches out of the deck before I glue it on. I cut them so that the edge of the deck covers 3/4 of the stringer & the hatch then sits on the ply frame of the tub.
Here's one I've just cut out ready for install. The center section on the one in the photo has to be separate, as there is a small step between the sponson & the tub.
But in your case you could cut the sponson skin wide enough to reach the stringer leaving the lip for the hatch to sit on. Then small pieces could be added across the tub at the front & at the transom for the ends of the hatches to be taped to. A small lip of ply or a 1/4" sq stock is usually glued underneath for the end of the hatch to rest on.

[don ferrette]

I know looking at Don's boat that the sponsons tops were done first and then the center section was finished off, making it look like it made things a bit easier to make the hatches and hatch wells.

Actually the center sections were done first before the sponsons went on. Then both sponson tops were fitted, trimmed to shape then epoxied in place, 4 pieces made the job much easier.

[785boats]

The 4 pieces certainly look easier for that particular hull Don.