ML Boatworks 1/8th Scale 171 Extreme Build Miss Elam

[Todd Fleury]

You will need to go with 2 5s 5000mah packs. Order from mojo racing products. You can't race with over 12000mah total.

[Speed810]

You will need to go with 2 5s 5000mah packs. Order from mojo racing products. You can't race with over 12000mah total.

Hey Todd ...I read that...maybe I misinterpeted it. The total capacity would still be only 8,000Mah sense they are being hooked up in series. Now if I was looking at hooking them up in parelle then I would be in trouble.

Did I mis-read that...are they actually saying you can't have more than 12,000Mah on board no matter how they are hooked up?

Interesting???
Courious to the answer.....:)

Mike

[T.S.Davis]

Mike, I think Todd's been drinking. Haha

(2) 5s/8000 in series is 10s/8000. We'll below the 12k limit. 8000's are likely huge though. Consider 5s/6000 from mojo. That's what I run.

If those 8000's are max amps I would not recommend them.

[Todd Fleury]

Terry's right, my bad. I was paying more attention to my adult beverages.

[don ferrette]

One thing I have seen on other builds is that it appears that where the stuffing tube comes up thru the hull that some are using like an 11/32 brass tube section as maybe a strengthening section and then running the 5/16 stuffing tube thru that. But yet I see some that just run the 5/16 up through the hull. Can anybody shed some light on this or am I just seeing things in the photos....LOL Mike

Mike,
I always use a shaft log glassed and epoxied in to the hull, in this case an 11/32" for the 5/16" stuffing tube to slide thru. This allows both permanent alignment and easy replacement should the tube get damaged and that does happen (more pics on the way to you). In the attached pic the stuffing tube did get trimmed back slightly after final install.

[don ferrette]

Mike, I think Todd's been drinking. Haha

(2) 5s/8000 in series is 10s/8000. We'll below the 12k limit. 8000's are likely huge though. Consider 5s/6000 from mojo. That's what I run.

If those 8000's are max amps I would not recommend them.

Terry is spot on here, I recently did a minor "mod" to fit a pair of GP 6000 5S packs in mine, I would recommend you go the same route-

http://giantpowerlipos.myshopify.com/collections/4s-14-8v-4-cell-maximum-performance-65c-130c-lipo-batteries/products/5s-18-5v-5-cell-6000-mah-65c-130c-maximum-performance-lipo-battery

[don ferrette]

Terry's right, my bad. I was paying more attention to my adult beverages.

Always post BEFORE the buzz sets in!

[Speed810]

HAHAHA!!!! Gosh I thought maybe somebody spiked my water I was drinking in the shop....LOL

All good information guys....Those 8,000Mah would be quite a tight squeeze and I was also concerned on the extra weight too...Terry. If I can get done with a good 6-7 laps and have about 30% left that will work for me.

Don....glad I checked on the stuffing tube log...that makes great sense. When I get this ESC in I'll have too get with ya on the cooling mod you guys are doing. I know Doug kind of summarized, but its not going to make total sense until I get to look at it and see what needs to be done.

Thanks again guys....Have a good night!

Mike

[Chilli]

As far as ESC's, I ran the Swordfish 240 w/cap bank last year on a 8S rigger with a 1527 1Y and it ran well all season. That being said, Jay has mentioned guys he runs with have had problems with the Swordfish,

Don recommended I try the Etti 220 HV for my scale. John Finch has been running one in his boat and it's been working great. Steve did get a couple in stock a few days ago. I just snagged one so only one is left in stock.

If you go with the Swordfish, get the LCD box for programming. The card is a turd IMHO and I don't mind programming manually.

[T.S.Davis]

Jay has mentioned guys he runs with have had problems with the Swordfish

Had 2 of these in my box. Where they stayed after I gave up on ever getting them to work. I tried to get hobbywing to build a 200 amp HV and they're not interested. I might try the Etti too.

There are guys that run them trouble free too so who knows.

[Speed810]

Morning guys...Glad I went with the ETTI 220 HV. Now it will be a matter of taking a look at the cooling setup. Don and Doug Smock both modifies the cooling system somehow to make sure it was cooling adequately. Doug kind of explained it, but need to see it first to make sense of it. I guess I wonder if they made any upgrades knowing the cooling system needed modified.???

Mike I also picked one up just a few days ago from Steve. Already been shipped....:)

Well back out to the shop and see what I can finish up today.

Mike

[don ferrette]

The "mod" to the ETTI is to address the only weak point we have seen, the cooling nipples are so close together and very fragile. Take all four nipples off, CAREFULLY drill out the aluminum cooling logs and fit 5/32" brass thru the now drilled out logs, you can use some thermal epoxy if you want to further secure the tubes. Also USE THE CAP BANK that comes with the ESC, can't stress this enough. Once you get through the somewhat tedious programming blips and bleeps (estimated time of completion is 2 Mojitos) you'll find that the Etti ESC is pretty rock solid.

[Doug Smock]

Once you get through the somewhat tedious programming blips and bleeps (estimated time of completion is 2 Mojitos)

I have found that .5mg of Xanax helps with the above process. If you don't have any on hand perhaps a good stiff margarita or a couple of shots of Fireball will assist you in not throwing the ESC or yourself out the window. "Be sure you're on the ground floor when attempting to program this control" should be in the instructions.

It's really not quite that bad, I was spoiled by the Castle Link.


Doug

[Speed810]

Hey guys.....yep heard that a pitcher of margaritas might be in the future when doing this.....LOL. Kind of surprising they haven't produced a programmer yet!! But there really doesn't appear to be that much to program...there a lot of Car/Truck stuff on there we don't use.

Don....Thanks for the information...You can possibly expect an email if I have a question but it appears that the Mod is not that difficult...just a bit time consuming. The project itself has been pretty time consuming, I'm pretty happy with the way things are turning out.

Going to start adding a bit of Bondo glazing filler to the sponson today or tomorrow. Just to fair and fill in the overlaps etc. Now my understanding is that you can put small corner fellets in but want to really keep everything as straight cornered as possible, especially around the ride pad.

Be laying the glass cloth up on the inside of the sponsons today.

Later guys

Back to work!!!!!


Mike

[Speed810]

Well got the starboard sponson sheeting completed, except for the top of course. The port sponson is coming along nicely. Wasn't able to get out there to do much today...was feeling a bit under the weather. Did get some sanding done on the bondo filling compound that I used on the strake line and up around the nose section to fair in some areas. I have used this compound before on my aircraft and it sands very nice. It indicates that it is totally water proof so shouldn't have a problem with the boat, plus it all will be coated with an epoxy finish.

Would be interesting to hear some of the other finishing methods that you guys use for the boats. (fillers, epoxy resins, primers and the finishing paints.)

Did get the Virginia Craftsman turn fin from Dick yesterday and it looks beautiful....Just had to line it up on the sponson heel to see what its going to look like.....

Have a good one!

Mike