***NEW*** Pro Boat UL-19 30" Sport Hydro

[ray schrauwen]

Thanks for posting! Nice to see them side by side.

[Darin Jordan]

The Pro Boat prop has slightly less pitch than the ABC 1716.


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Most likely because it's more similar to a 1715...

[MADRCER]

Most likely because it's more similar to a 1715...

Thanks for clearing that up Darin. I saw a post on FB and Rafael stated it was similar to the 1716. The 1716 works great on my Geico set up with the 3831 motor. I'm going to run the stock s&b prop soon to see how well it does prepped and compare the results. Thanks again to everyone involved with Pro Boat for continuing to bringing us good RTR products.

[dasboata]

Also, keep in mind... I'm NEVER going to attempt to recommend a prop that'll give you the "best speed". Maybe I can make it work, but maybe you can't. It's not as simple as just bolting a pinion gear into an RC Car. If I suggest a prop, and you end up burning up a power system, then I'm the bad guy, because you did everything "just right" and it was my prop recommendation that was the problem.

So, the props I would recommend are for "normal" sporty running. If you want to race GPS readouts, you'll have to build up your prop inventory from there.

Sorry, just being prudent, based on past experience.

so true me either !!! I quickly put marks stock SS prop on my pitch gauge came up with 2.50 of pitch

[Rafael_Lopez]

Seems like some marketing bozo threw "6s compatible" in there... the stock motor clearly is not the right speed for 6s. Man, I run a 1250kv in my 8s setup... BTW, it's not the size of the motor that makes it cell compliant, it's the kv. The size comes into play when you run larger props. It kinda looks like to me the stock motor should be a 4072 or equivalent. 36 seems a bit wimpy...

The manual was updated because the boat is intended to be run on 4s, being that it fits the P-LTD class, but the electronics are 6s capable. The issue is that people never think of propping down and then complain that there is a heat issue or blow up the electronics. The recommended packs are 2, 4s packs, it's on the box and in the manual. The optional packs are 6s as is a smaller prop, also in the manual, in the parts list. I rewrote the manual so that it was 100% clear on what to expect and to prevent people from over heating or blowing up their electronics by running the stock prop on 6s.

[CraigP]

Thanks Rafael, that's good info. Still think the motor is a bit small, but understand that brings other factors into consideration. It's my understanding the boat is quick stock, so that's where folks should start...

[Rafael_Lopez]

Darin has proven the boat will swing an 1815 or 1816 (cant remember) on 4s and get 53 mph. It may even swing an 1819 and get closer closer to 55+. To me, that's where a P-LTD boat should be speed wise, to be competitive. Why didn't we include a prop closer to 18XX instead of one close to the 17 series? Because people would have thrown 6s at it and definitely burned stuff up. When you're in our shoes, you learn that you have to put competitive products on the market but also do your best to protect people from themselves; unfortunately.

[dtacmed]

My 1st hydro. Running stock on 4s and got 46 mph. Now to figure how to balance and tune it for a little more speed

[CraigP]

Let us know what you find out! I'm curious....

[Rafael_Lopez]

46 is great! I was seeing 44-46 depending on water conditions when testing with a raw prop.

[CraigP]

The video on that boat is just bloody awesome! Proboat did a great job! I'm not sure how you and Darrin are connected to them, but if you're part of the product development, I say job very well done. It's a boat to be proud of, for sure!

I got to tell you, I got a couple of the vertical stabilizers from the UL-19 to put on my DFVortex 34. Here's a pic..

[dtacmed]

46 is great! I was seeing 44-46 depending on water conditions when testing with a raw prop.

Very Impressed so far (except for a prop shaft flex cable separation) . To this point my BJ-29 V3 has been my favorite of my 7 boats but this one may just pass it. Great job Quality build really a nice package.

[dtacmed]

Can someone tell me where or how to determine the correct balance point on the UL-19 Thanks Again !

[Darin Jordan]

Can someone tell me where or how to determine the correct balance point on the UL-19 Thanks Again !

Well, you're limited somewhat on this boat do to the restrictive movement in the battery trays. Only so much wiggle room.

I'd say basically push the batteries ALL the way forward in the trays and run it. Ideally, the "correct" balance point should be about 1" aft of the sponson ride-surfaces, but I'm not sure that's achievable with the stock battery trays, and it'll likely be a little further aft.

Generally speaking... if the boat is flying off the water (speed dependent, obviously), then your balance point is too far aft, assuming correct strut position. IF it's running very wet (lots of weight on the nose) and not coming anywhere near getting loose, then move the batteries back to loosen up the front end (get more air under it).

[CraigP]

Well, you're limited somewhat on this boat do to the restrictive movement in the battery trays. Only so much wiggle room.

I'd say basically push the batteries ALL the way forward in the trays and run it. Ideally, the "correct" balance point should be about 1" aft of the sponson ride-surfaces, but I'm not sure that's achievable with the stock battery trays, and it'll likely be a little further aft.

Generally speaking... if the boat is flying off the water (speed dependent, obviously), then your balance point is too far aft, assuming correct strut position. IF it's running very wet (lots of weight on the nose) and not coming anywhere near getting loose, then move the batteries back to loosen up the front end (get more air under it).

This is good, basic advice for all hydros. Weight and strut are critical adjustments. Take time, do one change at a time. When working on strut, move in very small increments. This is the most sensitive adjustment. Make sure the bottom is f your turn fin is parallel with the bottom of the boat. Then rotating it CW should hold the right sponson down more. CCW should make it raise. You gotta be patient and change each tuning point one at a time until you learn what your hull likes!