Originally posted by lenny
View Post
Your MG that started off as a hull
Collapse
X
-
With the advent of Zenoah's new 20cc engine, I think now the Komodo can run using gas power!
I read of one early user who adopted it in his 33" boat! It looks to be the perfect gas power plant for 35"-40" boat hulls.
If FE BL motors are going for the bigger gas hulls - now gas engines could go for smaller FE hulls!
Attached Files
Comment
-
I've been thinking about this too Mac! The new Zenoah G200PUM is said to be made of magnesium thus makes it light and another plus for a FE Hull to Gas convertion. I don't know the exact dimensions but it looks relatively smaller than the rcmk 254 evo as shown in a photo in this build thread where Dasboata installed one in a Titan-40 which is infact a 33" Deep-V hull.Originally posted by macdon View PostWith the advent of Zenoah's new 20cc engine, I think now the Komodo can run using gas power!
I read of one early user who adopted it in his 33" boat! It looks to be the perfect gas power plant for 35"-40" boat hulls.
If FE BL motors are going for the bigger gas hulls - now gas engines could go for smaller FE hulls!
My Aquacraft SV27's old Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoTm4Btz41Q
MHZ Micro Iceberg, Skunksworks Gen2 Cat twin, Aquacraft SV27, SM29 1515 sold.
Comment
-
Shawn already has a Twin BL powered Komodo. I saw another one being built with a single BL motor. I hope there will be a Komodo with a Zenoah G200pum. Hehehe!My Aquacraft SV27's old Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoTm4Btz41Q
MHZ Micro Iceberg, Skunksworks Gen2 Cat twin, Aquacraft SV27, SM29 1515 sold.
Comment
-
For that, i have a strong feeling that the first gas Komodo will be coming from either one of us! Hahaha!Originally posted by tagasagwan View PostShawn already has a Twin BL powered Komodo. I saw another one being built with a single BL motor. I hope there will be a Komodo with a Zenoah G200pum. Hehehe!
Weird thou - i emailed Gizmo and asked when he'll be getting his stocks of the new Zen g20s, then he replied and said he wont be carrying it. Yikes!
Comment
-
If only Gizmo will carry the G200 it will be a little more affordable. Hmmmm I wonder if our buddy Johnny can get this one?lols!Originally posted by macdon View PostFor that, i have a strong feeling that the first gas Komodo will be coming from either one of us! Hahaha!
Weird thou - i emailed Gizmo and asked when he'll be getting his stocks of the new Zen g20s, then he replied and said he wont be carrying it. Yikes!My Aquacraft SV27's old Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoTm4Btz41Q
MHZ Micro Iceberg, Skunksworks Gen2 Cat twin, Aquacraft SV27, SM29 1515 sold.
Comment
-
Well, all is not loss as Im sure there would be other sellers and its not like the G20 would be our regular staple anyway - unless of course if your path would be leading to smaller boats in the future.Originally posted by tagasagwan View PostIf only Gizmo will carry the G200 it will be a little more affordable. Hmmmm I wonder if our buddy Johnny can get this one?lols!
It does open up new options in our hobby!
Comment
-
Hey Mac,
Is this what I need for my pipe ?
Comment
-
Yes, #6 90 degree header is what you need to keep the pipe running straight to the back.Originally posted by lenny View Post
However, please check the distance of the header from engine to 90 degree bend. You might need something that is longer.
Here's what you do:
- place your motor without any exhaust system in the middle between the 2 wooden railings.
- with your detached tune pipe, lay it down on the left side interior of the boat
- the fattest portion of your tune pipe is called a "belly" - when it is layed down on the left side along the wooden railing, tape it down on the boat (or shim it with something) to have 1/4"-1/2" gap between belly and wooden railing. This is because if the belly is too close the wooden railing - it will melt the lip of your radio box. The radio box's lip rests on top of the wooden railing, so if the belly of your tune pipe is touching it - it will melt the radio box.
- when the tune pipe is laid down with the proper gap - measure from the front pipe to the engine. That is the length you would need for the header before it bends the 90 degree.
I hope my explanation above is clear, but will attach 2 pics below for you to see what Im talking about.Attached Files
Comment
-

I for got that this is what Joe had in this thing.
big cat twin.jpgc6e4eafc-6218-10d6.jpg
Hey Mac,
Today I modded the pipe by cold bending it out a little bet.
I think it looks pretty good now,
It's just all laying in the rails and motor not mounted yet,
Not to sure on the CG yet.
But the motor is setting in between the old mounting holes of the twin motor setup in the last pictures,
I think it should be ok like this, Just may need a pipe hanger or stop added some where on it.
Also was thinking of putting the gas tank I have in the bulk head hole in front of the motor,
I need to open that hole up anyway to fix the bow right, And reinforce it the best I can.
big gas cat 009.jpgbig gas cat 011.jpgbig gas cat 010.jpg
Comment
-
A typical deep vee header provides a result of 90 degree setup which makes your tune pipe parallel with the wooden railings - I was actually surprised when I saw your first few pics of a deep vee header that seemed to result to 100 degree, but I didnt say nothing. Yes bending it a bit is perfectly ok but didnt suggest it as I didnt know how comfortable you might feel doing it - but now I can see that you've gone ahead and did it with success! Good job buddy!Originally posted by lenny View Post
I for got that this is what Joe had in this thing.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]92569[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]92570[/ATTACH]
Hey Mac,
Today I modded the pipe by cold bending it out a little bet.
I think it looks pretty good now,
It's just all laying in the rails and motor not mounted yet,
Not to sure on the CG yet.
But the motor is setting in between the old mounting holes of the twin motor setup in the last pictures,
I think it should be ok like this, Just may need a pipe hanger or stop added some where on it.
Also was thinking of putting the gas tank I have in the bulk head hole in front of the motor,
I need to open that hole up anyway to fix the bow right, And reinforce it the best I can.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]92571[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]92572[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]92573[/ATTACH]
All good info and learning experience!
Comment
-
Thanks,That cool.
It worked out good than.
Gas cat 4.jpg[/ATTACH]big gas cat 002.jpgbig gas cat 009.jpg
Comment
-
Yes sir! By the looks of that last picture it seems you did a fine job of bending it - I just hope you didnt bend it while it was connected to the engine ....lol!Originally posted by lenny View PostThanks,That cool.
It worked out good than.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]92604[/ATTACH][/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]92605[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]92606[/ATTACH]
Yup, there are various shapes of headers depending on your application - there's the typical "L" shape that comes in 90, 100 and 105 degrees, the "deep vee" headers like yours, "wrap to center" and even "wrap to front".
The purpose of the bends is to provide the ample distance that the exhaust gas needs to travel in relation to the type of tune pipe based on the physical allowable space inside a hull. You cant just slap a tune pipe to a header and be done with it as a properly tuned exhaust will provide you the max potential power of your motor while an improperly setup exhaust will rob you of it.
A modified engine would always be more critical to tune than a stock engine would. Over here, we try to keep the 13"-13.5" distance measured from engine exhaust port to the middle of the "belly" of the tune pipe. For stock, start with probably 14"-15".
Measurement should be made in middle of the pipe - so as a guide, cut a string to your preferred length gently placing it on top of the header and leading towards the belly of the tune pipe. The end of the measured string should end exactly on the belly of tune pipe.
Comment

? ONLY IF THEY WORK 

Comment