Miss Geico dialed in- strut modification

[CHIEFY_44]

the biggest thing to do with this hull to stop the bounce is blue printing the hull, I have tried everything in the past and the biggest change was when I blueprinted the hull made all the edges to 90 deg and razor sharp, I also used a rudder offset and angle the rudder forward this helps with the bow ride height, I also use 2x4s in p, I personally cannot see the advantage of having any extra cells infront of the motor its dead weight and just slows your boat down and I am sure its this extra weight that is helping pyro's boat run flat, but how much speed is he losing carrying the extra cells. My MG runs great tlaunder has seen it running and i'm sure he will back me up on this, I run my MG in prod class with a aquqcraft 2030kv motor and the same 2x4s in p on a x442, and when i'm just messing about I put a castle 1515 1y in it with a m445 and it flies, if you can get this boat to around 50mph it just flattens out and flies. There is a video on here somewhere take the time and look for it and you will see what I mean

[hydro_pyro]

Looks can be deceiving. I'm using the same overall COG as many others who are running a pair of 3s packs. I have blown over three times using this COG. It's NOT bow-heavy. I have tried it more forward, and it tends to plow the front end at lower speeds.

The strut mod helps lift the stern, so the tunnel is not constantly trapping and "burping" air pockets out the back, which is the hallmark of catamaran porpoise in the 1:1 world.

[CHIEFY_44]

Pyro I am NOT saying the mod doesn't work, what I am saying is the weight of the extra battery has to be slowing your boat, I have done that mod myself you have to to move the strut up as far as you need to and have +/- angle adjustment on the MG v1. The other thing is every hull is different, your setup might not suite my hull and vice versa, there is loads to take into consideration when setting up a boat. For me IMO carrying that much extra weight does not make sense, there again when I'm racing I want to run as light as possible

[tlandauer]

the biggest thing to do with this hull to stop the bounce is blue printing the hull, I have tried everything in the past and the biggest change was when I blueprinted the hull made all the edges to 90 deg and razor sharp, I also used a rudder offset and angle the rudder forward this helps with the bow ride height, I also use 2x4s in p, I personally cannot see the advantage of having any extra cells infront of the motor its dead weight and just slows your boat down and I am sure its this extra weight that is helping pyro's boat run flat, but how much speed is he losing carrying the extra cells. My MG runs great tlaunder has seen it running and i'm sure he will back me up on this, I run my MG in prod class with a aquqcraft 2030kv motor and the same 2x4s in p on a x442, and when i'm just messing about I put a castle 1515 1y in it with a m445 and it flies, if you can get this boat to around 50mph it just flattens out and flies. There is a video on here somewhere take the time and look for it and you will see what I mean

The first time after my blue printing the ride pad, i thought to myself, big deal, now let's see if it really makes a difference. I was speechless the moment I pulled the trigger. I have also found that dead weight infront of the motor is useless, I put a heavy 5000mAh nicad stick, the boat still bounced.
My mistake is not doing a 90* on the back of the ride pad, after seeing how great yours was running, i will go back and redo them the future.

[BHChieftain]

Pyro I am NOT saying the mod doesn't work, what I am saying is the weight of the extra battery has to be slowing your boat, I have done that mod myself you have to to move the strut up as far as you need to and have +/- angle adjustment on the MG v1. The other thing is every hull is different, your setup might not suite my hull and vice versa, there is loads to take into consideration when setting up a boat. For me IMO carrying that much extra weight does not make sense, there again when I'm racing I want to run as light as possible

Hi Chiefy_44
Where in CA are you located? I'm in San Jose,

(the other ) Chief

[CHIEFY_44]

Hi chief I live in Rancho Dominguez just off the 91 fwy

[hydro_pyro]

Pyro I am NOT saying the mod doesn't work, what I am saying is the weight of the extra battery has to be slowing your boat...

If it's slowing it down, then why am I running close to 60 mph on a stock motor and ESC? The third pack is NOT for dead weight, it's a third 2s pack wired in series for 6s total. It does not run bow-heavy this way-- I have seen three blow-overs with this center of gravity, but rarely any bouncing.

When I run 4s (two packs), I put the side packs slightly more forward and it still runs nicely, with a high-flying bow, and no bounce.

6s:


4s:


If anybody is wondering... I made the pair of spacers in the photo from thick commercial rubber roof sheeting. Each one is a rectangle of flat rubber with the motor wires threaded through three tight holes. This keeps the stock motor bullets cooler, and keeps them from making contact with anything if the heat shrink gets hot enough to soften. Works great.

[BHChieftain]

Here's another video from a run we did yesterday-- since blueprinting brought the nose down I was able to set the strut completely neutral, no negative angle. The bottom of the propshaft is even with the sponsons (just put the boat on a flat table, and set the strut so everything was level). So bottom line-- if you blueprint with 90 angle off the sponson, you could skip the strut mod altogether.

Chief

[iop65]

runs great!
hope to achieve the same !

[maxmekker]

Yeah that was super to watch, great Place to run to. Love those Places were you get a bitt above water Level.

[skeeler]

Very informative thread. Subscribed.

[BHChieftain]

I'm pretty sure that's all high-quality aluminum, but I could be wrong. Aluminum tends to wrap itself around the Dremel bit, clog up the abrasive surface, and sort of "burn" away while you're grinding... This can make it more difficult than some other materials.

I used a spiral-fluted metal cutter bit, and finished with a small stone bit.

Hi,
I made this mod for a few customers and this time used a rattail file to widen the strut slot-- much easier than the dremel.

Chief

Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk 2

[Speedracer128]

I can't see a link to video. But that is impressive to have am MG near 60 with stock motor.

[BHChieftain]

I have a Word doc that has both Miss Geico and Blackjack mods and setup I have made documented, and also has a great overview on prop selection. I have not yet updated it with the blueprinting process, but I will get around to it this winter.
If anyone would like a copy of it, please email me at jqhydro@gmail.com

Chief

[96motorhead]

Has anyone ever done the strut mod and put the steep angle on the OSE shaft? I ask because I did it to my stock blackjack flex shaft and the shaft sheared after 1 lap or 10 seconds on the water. I got an upgraded OSE shaft but I'm afraid to put that steep of an angle on it as I don't want to go swimming again.lol