Thanks Tony...I'm not using an inline set up. Its a traditional offset hardware set up. I'm running a Fullers super strut and bracket, and the mini speedmasters rudder with the 2" set back.
Trey
Hi Trey! Ok, I finally got the super strut and bracket and speedmaster mini rudder. Looking into the x642 prop and tapered nut, but what flex cable/drive cable did you use? Can I use the old one? Also did you have to drill new holes for the strut and bracket? I just tried to eyeball the alignment and they did not seem to fit exactly. Thanks for all the help. I can't wait to get it all installed.
Hi Trey! Ok, I finally got the super strut and bracket and speedmaster mini rudder. Looking into the x642 prop and tapered nut, but what flex cable/drive cable did you use? Can I use the old one? Also did you have to drill new holes for the strut and bracket? I just tried to eyeball the alignment and they did not seem to fit exactly. Thanks for all the help. I can't wait to get it all installed.
Tony
I am using the same hardware that Trey used, when I installed my strut, I simply used the top 2 holes from the factory mount, and drilled 2 new holes for the bottom. The strut bracket will cover the unused old holes. I think Trey had a new hull to work with so he was able to mount stuff pretty much where he wanted. I think I mounted my rudder a bit wider than he did as well.
Actually, even though I picked up the hull new, it was pre drilled with all the hardware holes which stunk, but I did exactly what obrien said, mounted the strut with the top holes, marked the bottoms, drilled them then mounted the rudder where I felt it'd work best. Only thing important about rudder placement it to be sure when the rudder is at full left turn it wouldn't hit the largest possibble prop you'd run which would be in the 45-47mm range at best.
good luck, and post some picks when its installed.
It doesn't bolt straight on, but its an easy fit. The top holes of the strut line up, so its easy enough to mark the bottom holes then just eye up a place to mount the rudder where it clears the prop at full left turn and mount it up.
Hey guys...had a chance to run the boat this morning...ran two props, the modified 1742 I'd been toying around with and another 642. The 1742 is a no go...even with a move back on the CG, the boat doesn't lift like it should. So I threw the 642 on there, and got 45.9mph out of it. I must admist, I have myself a bit stumped. Even with the 642, I originally ran almost 49mph with, I've yet to see another run that fast. In my absence from the hobby for a few years, I have lost some edge on the battery game,I'm obviously not up to lipo lingo yet, but I do have a quiestion about the newer 4200 nihm cells. Back when we were running the 2400 nicads, and the 3000 nihms, you could literally beat the crap outta the cells, with little maintinance and the batteries would run the same after each charge, even with repetative charges daily. Are these new 4200s different? Should I be entirely discharging after each run or can these handle the half chage storage then recharge them? I do recall the 48 mph run was with the batteries fresh off the charger, and they went in the boat hot, and came out even hotter. But the boat was ballistic. So tell me, do I break out the old bulb discharger and be nicer to my batteries or was my 48 mph a freak run?
Oh yeah...lol...in my gread to go faster, I ordered a new motor for the boat the other day...NUE 1515 2D. Still hoping to break 50 on the 10L and 12 4200s first though.
My best run was also with the batteries having been off the charger for just a little while. I let them cool down a bit before beating on them. From what I understand with the Nimh batteries you don't have to completely discharge them before recharging them. But I may be wrong on that.
I'll get some, but I can tell you its just a stock x642 that I sharpened and balanced, no trickery at all. The prop I ran today is just one I pulled off my no step 2 P mono. For the life of me I can't find the actual 642 I had on when I went 48. If there was any difference between the two though it was pretty minimal, maybe I removed a tiny bit more leading edge during sharpening, but that would be all.
Take the tongue off one of the 642s, and that boat should wake up. My boat went from 37 mph to 48-49 range before I changed the hardware. Another thing I noticed the other day, that I haven't had a chance to confirm yet, is that th boat seems to run better if the prop is finished with 500 grit sand paper vs being polished. I have to do some more testing before I can confirm that though.
I'll get around to trying the de-tongues 642 soon, and about the 500 grit props, I'll agrre with you on that one. Although I never get mine beyond the wet sand 600 grit step due to laziness, I have been told back in my real bass boat days that the dulled finished props did work better in performance applications...hence the Mercury chopper and clever props that were only available from mercury with a matt finish.
for best results, run the cells hot off the charger. for best cell life, do not run them down below .95v per cell, yes you can top them up w/o having them fully discharged. if cell temps go over 150F...you prolly have damaged them. hth
rex
trey I think up to a cerain point the rough finish works best on props, but once you really start seeing high speeds, the polished is better. If you look at any of the fast 100+ mph boats, they will pretty much be all polished. especially up over 150 mph
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