Adjusting the LVC on the RTR Revolt 30

[Fluid]

The AQ 60A controller is clearly under-rated, since I run it in applications pulling well over 80 amps with no problems. Sure, it is not as linear as some other controllers and the LVC is a bit on the low side, but it is one of the few ESCs which are actually waterproof. In spite of claims to the contrary, ESCs like the Swordfish can be damaged/destroyed if they get wet. The way the AQ 60A controllers are made, it is almost impossible to destroy them with water.

While I have not tried it, it may be possible to run an external LVC with the AQ controller. Cheaper than a new ESC and it would cure that complaint....if it works.



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[BHChieftain]

I second Fluid's comment... I have a demanding OPC tunnel, and I use the UL1 motor in it. My seaking 120A ESC could not handle it-- caps fried. Replaced it with the "lowly" Aquacraft 60A ESC and it works great.

I just had a new p-spec limited hydro built by Randy at BBY, using UL1 motor it. Fastest boat in my fleet. Uses the AQ 60A ESC. I also like the fact that is is super water resistant.

Chief

PS, use a timer... you should be calculating how much capacity is left in your packs and bring the boat in when you are at 15-20% remaining. LVC is designed to be a safety net and if you are hitting it at all you are running the boat too long.

[rickwess]

PS, use a timer... you should be calculating how much capacity is left in your packs and bring the boat in when you are at 15-20% remaining. LVC is designed to be a safety net and if you are hitting it at all you are running the boat too long.

Or I could program my LVC to 3.2V/cell and make life so much easier.

Like I noted above, LVC voltage is my biggest issue. There are always compromises with stock electronics to achieve cost goals. If it was programmable for LVC, it'd be running it until it died.

[jetskier]

There are always compromises with stock electronics to achieve cost goals.

that goes with aftermarkets too. stretching the profit margin. that's why it's all made in China or better.. engineer in the US and made in China.

[tlandauer]

I second Fluid's comment... I have a demanding OPC tunnel, and I use the UL1 motor in it. My seaking 120A ESC could not handle it-- caps fried. Replaced it with the "lowly" Aquacraft 60A ESC and it works great.

I just had a new p-spec limited hydro built by Randy at BBY, using UL1 motor it. Fastest boat in my fleet. Uses the AQ 60A ESC. I also like the fact that is is super water resistant.

Chief

PS, use a timer... you should be calculating how much capacity is left in your packs and bring the boat in when you are at 15-20% remaining. LVC is designed to be a safety net and if you are hitting it at all you are running the boat too long.

This is very good info for me, not about the LVC, but about the robustness of the AQ ESC, I too have problems with my Tunnel on the caps of Seaking 120 ESC, added a cap pack, was great, now I have a second Tunnel, ML PS-295, will be hard to add a capbank due to different set up.
It is funny, never had a broblem with the Seaking 120 ESC on all my other boats, but I think for some reason with the driving style ( more part throttle thru the turns) the ESC is working harder.
Guess I will be buying a AQ ESC after all.

[BHChieftain]

Or I could program my LVC to 3.2V/cell and make life so much easier.

Like I noted above, LVC voltage is my biggest issue. There are always compromises with stock electronics to achieve cost goals. If it was programmable for LVC, it'd be running it until it died.

(I made a similar comment on a different thread, sorry if I"m repeating myself...)
I don't think voltage is a reliable way to determine remaining pack capacity. If you are trying to target 20% in reserve to avoid over-discharge damage to the packs, then it will be very hard to find a reliable voltage that correlates to that 20%. It is much more accurate to measure runtime and measure actual MAH put back into the packs.

Chief

[Doby]

(I made a similar comment on a different thread, sorry if I"m repeating myself...)
I don't think voltage is a reliable way to determine remaining pack capacity. If you are trying to target 20% in reserve to avoid over-discharge damage to the packs, then it will be very hard to find a reliable voltage that correlates to that 20%. It is much more accurate to measure runtime and measure actual MAH put back into the packs.

Chief

Exactly..Its an unreliable way that gives a false sense of security....

[mannytx1]

100_0302.jpg100_0303.jpg100_0304.jpgHi, Mike grimracer zaborowski
I think there are serious problems with the design of the rudder, the water pickup hole is very high, need 1 inch below ( the water pickup hole should be no less than one inch below the keel) very small rudder, a minimum recommended length is 1 times the diameter of its support below Lx 15% 30”x15% = 4,5” minimum. (REVOLT 30 ONLY 4")
LVC not protects the batteries
thank you very much

Manny

[Doby]

How is this a serious problem??? Where do you get your formulas from?

[jetskier]

again..I'm still new to RC Boating. My Revolt turns like it's on rails, motor and ESC is always just warm. compare to my SV27 where is turns like a jacked up 4X4, motor and ESC is always hot. both running on single 4S lipo

[Doby]

Some people look for problems that don't exist.

[GixerGuy1978]

Yes, it seems timing is important. I'm going to finish the season with the stock ESC and keep it to around 5 minutes. Next spring I'll probably get the bug to upgrade some parts and an adjustable ESC is on my short list. Two friends in our club have ProBoat Mystics. This is how there ESC's work. If they happen to run too long and the boat stops they let it sit for approximately one minute and then it will run again very slow, but enough to get to shore. I'm guessing it's because the LVC is set higher and the batteries can recover slightly, but this is a guess on my part. I could be all wrong, but would like to experiment, it’s a hobby, right.

Ok guys, the HK Nano-tech's have a longer power voltage/amp consistant curve before they just drop out. And they really drop out! So much so that the AQ ESC is going into this shut down feature instead of just the LVC feature. The traits of these nano-techs in general are just the problem you are having with the studder bump feature of the AQ ESC. And I agree, the LVC may be set too low with this particular ESC, and that combined with the nano-tech's not really restablishing a returning voltage bounce high enough to copy what other guys are being able to do, and that is to wait a bit and they'll re-arm themselves and they can bring their boats to shore. AQ ESC are great for P-class racing as I've been using them for years with no issues, but as always, you have to monitor temps of both your motor and ESC to keep everything in check/balance for a reliable power system. That and time your runs so that you don't get into this 'dead in the water' problem.

[Bomber Z]

Back in the day we used a stop watch to clock how long the boat has run.

[Bomber Z]

SV 27 was built to use 2 batteries. That's why It handled like a 4x4 using a single batt. The centerline becomes off balance with a mm of battery being to one side or the other. Up grade to both turn fin's and trim tabs the SV27 handles as well as the Revolt.

again..I'm still new to RC Boating. My Revolt turns like it's on rails, motor and ESC is always just warm. compare to my SV27 where is turns like a jacked up 4X4, motor and ESC is always hot. both running on single 4S lipo

[Bomber Z]

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...shld-32&cat=52
These have worked for me. Run on the SV27 45amp ESC with lipo batt no problem...