No Problem Tom...
Adjusting the LVC on the RTR Revolt 30
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You didn't open a can of worms Tom.Originally posted by Tom899 View PostSorry if I opened up a can of worms, didn't mean to.
Thanks,
Tom
These guys have been a little cranky lately, not sure what's up with that.
DougMODEL BOAT RACER
IMPBA President
District 13 Director 2011- present
IMPBA National Records Director 2009-2019
IMPBA 19887L CD
NAMBA 1169
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what about lvc alarms ? I bought 2 of these to run my lipo's in our cars which have no lvc for lipo's
so far they work excelent ! seem to start chirping around 3.6 volts per cell !
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270658077401...84.m1497.l2649
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Hi Mike,
Hope you get feeling better soon!
Thanks for the updates. I'll have to keep an eye on my strut and sleeve. I upgraded my flex shaft and brass sleve in the beginning and the sleeve did not fit, too small. I ended up sanding it quite a bit untill it fit. I called Steven at OSE and he didn't know there were different size shafts, he tried one out and found the same thing. He promptly refunded and is working on a solution. The stock one is .214” and the new one is .218”. Nice deal winning the boat!
Tom
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I have the same issue where mine will studder then just shut down as soon as i notice the studder i immediately stop driving and i loose all power to the moto after i let out of the throttle but i still have full steering capabilities. i thought it was a bad esc so i bought another one of the same model but still same problem so im going to buy a new esc and properly program it so then hopefully i wont have these problems. just not sure on what esc to order
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Yes, it seems timing is important. I'm going to finish the season with the stock ESC and keep it to around 5 minutes. Next spring I'll probably get the bug to upgrade some parts and an adjustable ESC is on my short list. Two friends in our club have ProBoat Mystics. This is how there ESC's work. If they happen to run too long and the boat stops they let it sit for approximately one minute and then it will run again very slow, but enough to get to shore. I'm guessing it's because the LVC is set higher and the batteries can recover slightly, but this is a guess on my part. I could be all wrong, but would like to experiment, it’s a hobby, right.Originally posted by Napalm View PostI have the same issue where mine will studder then just shut down as soon as i notice the studder i immediately stop driving and i loose all power to the moto after i let out of the throttle but i still have full steering capabilities. i thought it was a bad esc so i bought another one of the same model but still same problem so im going to buy a new esc and properly program it so then hopefully i wont have these problems. just not sure on what esc to order
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Yes this is true. But, the engineer in me wants more tweeking and adjustments for trial and error and maybe I'll learn something along the way.Originally posted by Mike CarusoYes Tom only a hobby. Keep it fun...not a PITA. You could save money and by a timer and set it for 5 mins.
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Old thread but still valid.
I don't even have a Revolt officially yet (should arrive in 2 hours), but I've already bought a Seaking ESC. I got the 120. Sure, the 90 would do, but if I ever felt like going with a faster motor, I would already be a step ahead. That whole timing-your-runs-thing is for the birds....literally. You should only have to do that for non-grounded RC vehicles (planes and helis). If you are a racer or someone running the boat hard through 95% of the charge, then you can get your timing down well. If you're just playing around with some full throttle, some part throttle, playing cat&mouse games, etc., time is going to vary more greatly. I know...I can hear it now..."If ya ain't gonna run full throttle then why buy a Revolt?" Regardless, I feel we should be able to rely on the LVC to warn us when the pack is low and allow us to bring the boat in without overdrained batteries. Shut-off at 2.7V/cell?! That's crazy. Let's not forget that that is an average. In summarey, timing may be cool for some. I vote new ESC.Revolt 30, Octura M545, Spectrum DX3S tx, ORX rx, Shaft from Kinetic...not on the water yet.
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[QUOTE=metoo;504018]That whole timing-your-runs-thing is for the birds....literally. You should only have to do that for non-grounded RC vehicles (planes and helis).QUOTE]
Mind if I say something about this.
The NORM is.. you can safely walk out to pick up your crashed plane, heli and RC car.. YOU CAN NOT WITH AN RC BOAT. A new danger is involved and THAT.. is why it is BEST to know your boat, run times.
Again..be safe.
Grim
p.s. As a racer I have not come close to using up the MAH in my race setup..
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Sounds like you did all the required research and are an expert on LVC and its use in boats...Originally posted by metoo View PostOld thread but still valid.
I don't even have a Revolt officially yet (should arrive in 2 hours), but I've already bought a Seaking ESC. I got the 120. Sure, the 90 would do, but if I ever felt like going with a faster motor, I would already be a step ahead. That whole timing-your-runs-thing is for the birds....literally. You should only have to do that for non-grounded RC vehicles (planes and helis). If you are a racer or someone running the boat hard through 95% of the charge, then you can get your timing down well. If you're just playing around with some full throttle, some part throttle, playing cat&mouse games, etc., time is going to vary more greatly. I know...I can hear it now..."If ya ain't gonna run full throttle then why buy a Revolt?" Regardless, I feel we should be able to rely on the LVC to warn us when the pack is low and allow us to bring the boat in without overdrained batteries. Shut-off at 2.7V/cell?! That's crazy. Let's not forget that that is an average. In summarey, timing may be cool for some. I vote new ESC.Grand River Marine Modellers
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ne%20modellers
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I never let mine get to studder mode. Working in automotive and aviation testing has trained my hearing very well. I listen to the straightaway RPM drops and I usually can get about 8min run time on my 4200 and 4500mAh going full tilt, varying speed, and stop sometimes. I have 4 4S batteries to run and also have 3 batteries for my Barbwire. with both it gives me a good amount of time till I'm tired of running. when I get home and put the batteries on the charger, they all take in about 3000-3600mAh don't know how accurate the readings are. I'm very happy with the stock ESC, I don't see any reason for me to change it out. I'm still new to RC boating but from my experience with jetski racing, automotive, and avaition. usually stock setup and settings has been tested and proven and given a warranty, and once you modified.. your on your own.Last edited by jetskier; 05-23-2013, 05:00 PM.
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After initially running the boat through a few packs, my main concerns with the stock ESC were (in order of importance):
- LVC at 11.6V is too low. I'd don't want my LiPo cells dropping below 3V.
- Not very smooth/linear. It seems to go from 0 to 30% power in one jump.
- I got caught twice with a dead battery in the middle of he lake after the "bump" gave me about 10secs of warning. If the LVC was higher, this wouldn't have happened.
LOVE the boat, not so much the ESC. I run Tekin in my cars so maybe I'm just used to the way they work.
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