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That scratchbuilt motor is very well done. It must have taken you a long time to complete it.Originally posted by hughb View Post
I decided that the hull needed a little floor strengthening so applied an additional carbon fibre layer to the transom overlapping with the piece added to the floor of the hull, extending up the sides.
Edit: I found this hull with an offset drive.
Last edited by Old School; 04-27-2018, 09:48 PM.Comment
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You don,t need the right [ starboard ] offset with the hydros as opposed to mono hulls.Comment
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This is a few components of the Dragondarkwings 1/10 scale 3D printed motor. Expensive but amazing. Everything screws together with the word's smallest screws. Includes a full size metal gear servo plus another mini type servo that I assume is for operating the butterflies. No instructions are included but I blieve that there are videos on You-Tube.
Edit: link to motor on You-Tube
Last edited by Old School; 05-02-2018, 04:51 AM.Comment
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Yeah nice. Looks to be a perfect height as well for the bug catcher to clear the top of the canopy.Comment
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There is actually a piece about 1 cm high that goes between the supercharger and the bugcatcher so will raise it a further 1 cm. I had to watch the video to make out what goes where. The metal servo as supplied is simply to strip for the electric motor and control board.Originally posted by hughb View PostComment
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For those with a bit more building experience than I do, when I mount my stuffing tube through the hull I intend bonding the next telescopic size larger diameter tube in the hull passing the stuffing tubing through this and sealing it. Should I resin bond the fixed section of tubing to the stuffing tube or use an RTV sealant, please? Using RTV should allow non-destructive disassembly should the stuffing tube ever need removing. My experience is with stingers and this is my first strut install.
Edit: found this image
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...chmentid=87104Last edited by Old School; 05-03-2018, 03:57 AM.Comment
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I do not know how people build small boats as even with this hull I am quickly running out of room. It is like the proverbial 10lb shyte in a 5lb bag. Just mocking up the interior.Comment
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I think you better check to make sure this hull still floats with that monster lipo inside. that is a small hydro.Comment
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I did a float test previously using two 3300 mah 3s batteries before deciding to go with a single 5s 4000 mah battery.Comment
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just looking at the actual size of this drag hydro makes me think the power your going to use in this hull will be too much . the beam is quite narrow and having this more than ample power plus no doubt a pitchy prop theres a good chance this hull will roll over just from prop / power torque. I hope i am wrong in my thinkings but she will be touchy on the trigger.Comment
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More POWER, as Jeremy Clarkson likes to say. On a serious side, the motor is most likely a little over the top, but is what I had available. If too much I can go to a 3660. I was actually quite surprised when I saw the hull floating with the two 3s batteries as it seemed rather heavy. However, it did float very well.
I do not intend an aggressive prop initially. My son can work on that as the hull shows if it has promise or not. All the setup can be re-used on a bigger hull if needed. At present the hull is 590 mm X 220 mm.Comment
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with our p rigger 4s hydros which have approx 540mm sponson span , these can flip a sponson if you hit the throttle to hard , this is what makes me think with your hydro hull with a 220mm beam is going to be very hairy unless you open the throttle gradually and not wot at once, so if your wanting a standing start as in drag race , you will lose alot of time with a slow start. a rolling start will be fine though.Comment
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Drag Boat City . com , has your hydro hull set up and has done 124 mph. take note of strut angle etc plus motor / strut offset.Comment
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Many thanks. I have planned a 6 mm offset.Comment
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