prop treating

[rol243]

Gary do you have any pics of the busted prop ? like to see where the blade lifted off.

[Gary]

No sorry..I always just throw them out. But I can tell you they break 1/2 way down on the blade ...sometimes closer to the hub. I n some instances it will bend real good and not break but probably because I got it just in time.

[rol243]

thats ok , i was thinking the prop might have been breaking at the hub. sounds more like the blades are very thin and no doubt do need some treatment. my gas boats run COCR props, very hard material used.

[Gary]

Cool...Steven from OSE just found out for me that the props are 17-4 stainless so i will do the Bodycote treatment. From Prather they say you can take them much farther so going to try it.

Thanks again Shooter...this put me on the right track and i have plenty of time to do it since the lake is a solid block of ice here. -9* tonight......this sucks !!! LOL The older I get the harder these winters are for me !!

[rol243]

if your prop is sharp enough you should be able to break the ice and have some boating time. lol.

[Gary]

LOL That's good stuff !!!

[rol243]

sorry Gary but i had to rub it in. must be a pain waiting for the ice to clear off the lakes over there so you can have a run.

[raptor347]

Gary,
If you're interested in prepped props, I'm pretty sure I could do up some ABC's that will survive.

[Gary]

sorry Gary but i had to rub it in. must be a pain waiting for the ice to clear off the lakes over there so you can have a run.

It is but the great thing about it is I get to ponder and change things to go even faster and have plenty of time to do it. I consider that to be the best part of any hobby!

[Gary]

Gary,
If you're interested in prepped props, I'm pretty sure I could do up some ABC's that will survive.

Thanks Brian but I will give this metal treatment a shot first. If she no work.....I will send a few to you! Thanks for the offer.

[CraigP]

Gary, I’ve used that process before (not from Bodycote) on crank journals for a blown alcohol motor. It provides some serious case hardening! It’s also been used on high lift roller cams. No doubt it’ll be a tough prop! You may want to be sure the balance and sharpness is on the blade before sending. This process isn’t as penetrating as nitriding. It’s thin. Let us know!

[ray schrauwen]

Tried it once in the brushed NiMh days. It was a pain in the arse. I'd rather do a floating shaft system with Ferrules like Brian B. does on his riggers.
Just where to get the parts to do it in .150" ???

They have those balances for airplane propellers that you can use with a shaft. It my understanding that they are more accurate than magnetic types, although I don’t use one, but I’m not trying to spin 45K either! This would probably work with a flex shaft, but the clearances needed to run the flex just makes balancing it a joke, IMO.

You guys got me thinking, a fairly dangerous thing! I think I would use the 3/16 hardened stub shaft, put a piece of flex on that just to make the bend. Then put a piece of straight shaft to the other end of the short flex. You’ll need a lathe to tool the hole into the straight shaft, so you can make a good brazed welded attachment. This would allow a bearing clearance for the majority of the drive line and only having it loose for the short piece of flex. What you guys think about that?

[raptor347]

Tried it once in the brushed NiMh days. It was a pain in the arse. I'd rather do a floating shaft system with Ferrules like Brian B. does on his riggers.
Just where to get the parts to do it in .150" ???

Hyperformace Products for the stubs, double square shafts and couplers.

[Gary]

OH boy ....great news!!! It's -5* today! This makes me so happy.....NOT !!
Maybe I can put some ski's on her LOL

[MarkF]

Gary
Why are you wasting your time with 30 year old technology props when Brian's props are the newest technology and are the fastest props on the planet.

Mark