Is tp 4060 2040kv ok on 6s?

[ray schrauwen]

I'm starting to think that some people either refuse to read threads in whole or just can't. Sorry to be hard on anyone but, all the information is in here, it just needs to be read.

[keithbradley]

Load (which will directly correlate to current draw) is a product of prop diameter and pitch, RPM, and hull weight/attitude. Your motor is plenty larger for a 29" cat, but a x445 would typically be used on a setup closer to 30,000RPM. Your setup is closer to 50k RPM and not anywhere near suited for sport application. To run that RPM you would have to prop down significantly and in a single motor cat, drivability is going to suffer.
A typical kv choice for that cat on 6s with a x445 would be something like 1600kv, which should get you somewhere around 60mph.

[rude5150]

So just bring my prop size down and I should be ok or must I go down in cell count? I've got the same setup in my Zonda. I had a leopard motor in first then went TP. The motor power that's breaking my mind. I will try the set up with a smaller prop. Or was I to go with the 180 over the 220 esc?

[Fluid]

I thought that TP 4050 2220kv was a 6s motor?

Do not go by what motor makers say are the max limits for their motors. Most specs, particularly rpm and volts, are not practical at all. A 2200 Kv motor is NOT suited for 6S sport running. I set SAW records with a 2200 Kv motor on 6S and ran almost 90 mph (not a GPS speed BTW) but pulled well over 250 amps and heated things up a lot in just two passes.

However, a 2200 Kv motor is a good 4S motor for many applications if it is large enough. Diameter and length matter too, regardless of Kv. So does shaft diameter, as it is well accepted that a 5 mm shaft is too small for motors longer than 75 mm at high rpm.

Too many folks with limited experience will post their opinions as fact when in truth they are very wrong and are giving poor advice. Post count is not a guarantee of competence either. Do not believe everything you read or see on the Internet!


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[iridebikes247]

if its 2040kv that sounds like a 4s setup for sport running and event decent speed.

There is a trend it seems lately of people going with high rpm to go faster...and its correct. People gave advice to go lower rpm and I took it, and ran my boats for years and was always awarded with cool temps and a clean unburnt hull. On 4s you will have a lot of fun and keep the boat in one piece. Burning stuff up gets old real fast Take the power down and see how fast you can go.

A more sensible trend for most to follow would be the one I am onto right now. Using the least amount of power and least amount of weight to achieve speed and bragging about how little current draw is used to achieve a targeted speed. Unfortunately its not as exciting as big power.....oh well. Let us know how lower voltage works out for you

[kfxguy]

In short, that's way too much motor for that boat. If you want it reliable and be able to run it around for any amount of time you need to either:

-run it on 4s
-prop it down a bunch (band aide fix, and will likely cavitate with a smaller prop)
-change the motor to a 1600kv or so motor (the stock 1500 or 1800 proboat (1500 better choice) on 6s would be a better choice. I know there are a bunch of people running the 1800kv motor on 6s in that hull and it works fine.

If you continue to run it the way you do, you'll keep smoking electronics. We told you in the past that your combo was a bad choice and now maybe you might start to believe it. I saw many videos where your blip ping the throttle, on and off...part throttle...all of that kills the esc. I've personally got a 1800kv 1512 castle in my mini and so far it runs well. It's pretty fast too. I'm running a prop under 40mm and it cavitates a little for the first couple feet.

I'm going to be honest with you. I have a 2200kv 1515 castle in my 32" rivercat (I'd say it has less drag than your hull does tho, might be why I'm getting away with it) and quite frankly I'm pretty nervous when I run it on 6s. Nervous enough to where I'm looking for a lower kv motor for it. It was built just to make a fast pass or two and bring it in, but it still makes me nervous. I do have a small prop on it to (I'm one of the weird ones that like smaller props and high rpm...big prop, high rpm don't mix well if you don't have alot of experience in this).

[rude5150]

tp 4060 220 esc 6s.

[rude5150]

tp 4050 2220kv 220 esc 6s

[kfxguy]

Yea. I see why your having problems. Your running that boat in a water hole not much bigger than a mud puddle. You can't get on it and stay on it for any amount of time. You cruising around like it's a Walmart boat. You just can't do that and expect it to last. It's been said many times here before that on these brushless esc's, full throttle is easier on them them that toying around your doing. Find yourself a lake and drive it like you should. Build you a milder, slower setup for those little tiny ponds your running in. Your wasting your time running in those. The pond I run in is much bigger than that but it's still to small for me to be completely satisfied with my runs. This is how I run mine to test them. May not be text book perfect but it's working for me.

Watch "26" mini rivercat on 6s" on YouTube
26" mini rivercat on 6s: http://youtu.be/14AD40SLvNw

[rude5150]

Is there other books that I can buy to help me get a better understanding about rc boat set ups?

[rude5150]

Looks great. So if I find a larger body of water, should I keep motor, esc and just prop down along with dropping cell count to 4-5s?

[rude5150]

1boat has tp 4050 2220kv 220esc and next has tp4060 2040kv 220 esc. Can I keep this motor and esc set up and just prop down and go down in cell count?

[kfxguy]

I'd run the 4050 in the smaller (29") hull. X442 prop, then maybe move up to a 642 if temps are good and current draw is in check. The 4060 I'd run in a bigger hull, take advantage of the extra torque it has and keep the rpm lower and use a bigger prop. Bigger prop on small hull will give you torque roll or steer. (I'm sure someone is going to put their .02 in on this...because it can be mostly eliminated with prop work) but in general with a non super worked professional super duper prop that's what you'll likely experience. I like smaller props (to a point) and high rpm (to a point and in my limited experience). The 4060 has been known to fail (this is what ive read so I'm repeating it) easier than the 4050 at higher rpm because it's a longer shaft and it's 5mm. In my opinion, a motor at that length should have a larger shaft through the body (to reduce flex of course) and be necked down to 5mm.

[Anders Martinelle]

Hi, i`m quite new to Electric but i can say YES you can run 6S to a 2040kv 4060TP motor.
You just need to "know" what your doing.....
If your ESC is a logging ESC you can check and see the ampage you draw.
I have a 2040kv 4060 motor that i tested in the garage and when i loaded it with a 7x7" CF airplane prop it produced over 4600w.
It took over 220A on 6S.
If you pull that your ESC will be warm.
TP says that the 4060 motor will produce 3050W continious.
Stay around that and you should not see any "overheating" problem.
By the way with that prop i used it pulled 33,5K rpm, so load it less :).

[Fluid]

Sorry, I know you are trying to help but your advice will get folks into trouble. Running a motor with an air prop means nothing for setting up a marine motor. Few boaters will only pull 135 amps with that motor, which is 3000 watts on 6S. Most will end up using part throttle, which will just kill the ESC with that motor. The 4060/2040 motor is a 4S motor and that Kv is popular with many boaters. On 6S it will get most boaters into costly trouble.




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