Prop advise

[Gabe_k]

also another question. when i last crashed this thing i ripped the rudder off. so i ordered this one: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=dh-PRB4078

i believe this is for the mystic? anyways my bracket didnt get damaged so i could take just the rudder off of that bracket and put it back on the original one and run an inline... or should i stick to an offset rudder? i like the inline because i feel that the prop wash shoots more water up the pick up rather than just being dragged in the water... opinions? pros/cons

[Speedracer128]

@ gabe or anyone else. Once these hulls are reinforced what are the more common ways used to reinforce the canopy? I thought I was good to go after reinforcing the hull until yesterday. I was running her in rough water at a decent speed till she flipped from a wave hitting her from he side. My canopy had 2 small hairline cracks I ca'd together, but when she hit the water my canopy basically broke into several pieces. Any thoughts?

[Speedracer128]

About the offset rudder I've heard many recommend both offset or in the middle. I asked the same Q to Cris from FD that helps me with my boat parts and he recommended leaving it center. Which btw works great for me and my MG is a fast one. Some say it helps with the wa wa wa bounce. But after I upgraded my motor and reinforced my hull the boat doesn't do that bounce anymore with rudder behind the prop

[tlandauer]

also another question. when i last crashed this thing i ripped the rudder off. so i ordered this one: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=dh-PRB4078

i believe this is for the mystic? anyways my bracket didnt get damaged so i could take just the rudder off of that bracket and put it back on the original one and run an inline... or should i stick to an offset rudder? i like the inline because i feel that the prop wash shoots more water up the pick up rather than just being dragged in the water... opinions? pros/cons

I didn't notice any difference in terms the amount of water that is being picked up by the two different styles of rudder.

@ gabe or anyone else. Once these hulls are reinforced what are the more common ways used to reinforce the canopy? I thought I was good to go after reinforcing the hull until yesterday. I was running her in rough water at a decent speed till she flipped from a wave hitting her from he side. My canopy had 2 small hairline cracks I ca'd together, but when she hit the water my canopy basically broke into several pieces. Any thoughts?

You can use FG or CF cloth to reinforce it, it will mean that you will lose the transparent windshield. Take care so you do a neat job because if you are using the inner lid, there is the factor of clearance to be considered.

About the offset rudder I've heard many recommend both offset or in the middle. I asked the same Q to Cris from FD that helps me with my boat parts and he recommended leaving it center. Which btw works great for me and my MG is a fast one. Some say it helps with the wa wa wa bounce. But after I upgraded my motor and reinforced my hull the boat doesn't do that bounce anymore with rudder behind the prop

I have tried both , my findings are that the off-set rudder helped straight line handling ( the in-line will induce slight zig-zag movement, I don't know why, it could be a weak rudder servo, but the moment I put on the off-set rudder, this is gone). Interestingly enough, the in-line rudder reduced the wah-wah-wahs where as the offset increased the condition until I trued the sponson ride pads and raised the strut to the recommended height by other members and with the prop having a slight negative thrust angle. I now run the Kintec V2 off-set rudder since I could never get rid of the zig-zag movement in a straight line run with the in-line stock rudder.

[Gabe_k]

i appreciate the feed back! I guess i will try both the inline and offset to see what works with my set up.

as for the water pick up.. my theory is it acts like a jet pump... at low speeds, where you wont be getting much flow, the prop is thrusting water into the pick up creating better cooling(the esc heats up more at lower speeds) BUT i cant prove that at all. Its what i "think" heck it could be diverting water so its getting less cooling? lol

[Gabe_k]

alright another issue ive ran into... when i placed the order yesterday, i thought that my strut had a brass bushing in it that i lost.. so i ordered one. i ended up finding it last night and this strut requires a bearing not a bushing.. ose is out of the 3/16 bearings so what should i do now?

[Speedracer128]

Gabe,

Are you using a stock strut? Mine def has a bushing on the side closest to the propeller. I bought my MG off a private seller so I'm curious if he changed that. Having a bearing instead of a bushing to me makes better sense. I'd rather have a bearing so if the strut I have is supposed to use one I def want to find the rite one that goes there

[Gabe_k]

i just went on proboats site and its a bushing but different than the one i purchased so i dont think itll work... they arent actually bearings, its just a shorter bushing.. sort of like a engine bearing in a car. but yes people do run "real" bearings in some struts

[Speedracer128]

Tlandauer,

What did you do to true your sponson ride pads? Since I already reinforced my hull and ordered a new cover, sometime in the next week I'm removing all the hardware from my boat to prep and paint it. (Probably Pepsi blue) which should look sick. So I was thinking while I am prepping and sanding for the paint that I should do it rite and true the sponsons. So if you don't mind will you tell me how you did it or post a link to a thread that has instructions that you recommend?

As for reinforcing the cover ill figure out a way that will be thin enough to have the option of using the Tupperware inside lid. ATM I'm not using it because it doesn't fit with my motor (4082). But I know the inner lid can be heated and bent to be able to go on properly with my motor. I just haven't gotten around to do it yet.

Thanks

[Gabe_k]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ace-Prep/page2

Darin Jordan posted some good pics and info on it

[Speedracer128]

Heaving,

Why do you say with 4s's will have a short runtime with the 4082. Mine is an 1800kv. For 2s's my boat came with 5000 mah speedpacks and I bought a pair of nanoteck 5600 mah. Unfortunately one of my speedpacks puffed so I don't have those packs now to compare runtimes to when I was stock. But for the bit of experience that I have now my runtimes seem to fine using my 4082 with my 2s nanotechs. I'm not disagreeing with you, I just want to learn what your talking about and why you say that.

My bad for cluttering your thread Gabe. But while I'm on the subject I'd like to get you guys's input on my batt situation and an idea I have. ATM I basically have 2 sets of lipo's. my pair of 2S nanoteck and I have a pair of 3S lipos I got at a local hobby shop. Since one of my speed packs puffed up I haven't been using my other speedpack that is still good. What I was thinking is to get another 3s lipo from HK to use with my speedpack, which will give me a 5s set. Do you guys think that's a good idea I stead of just having a 2s pack kicking around that I don't use?

[Gabe_k]

No worries, this thread is for all, not just me! When my boat was stock I would run around all types of batts... People will tell you you shouldn't and that the c rating HAVE to be the same and what not... I broke every rule in the book and my boat was fine. All my batts are turnigys. I ran 4s, 5s, and 6s setups. I mixed around c rating and mah capacity like nobody's business lol

[tlandauer]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ace-Prep/page2

Darin Jordan posted some good pics and info on it

That is a great thread, Darin does fantastic prep work for all boats.

@ Speedracer128
I used Bondo Body Filler, there are different kinds, I bought "stage 3" as this is not the stuff to fill big dents. The last six digits on the bar code is 00233. Hope that helps.
I had to mix several batches to get the resin/hardener ratio right as I was so used to mixing epoxy in a measuring cup. Also this stuff gets set real quick. The trick is if your prep work is done, just follow Darin's steps and you will be fine. My filler dries to a reddish tint, not the grayish color you see in the picture. This stuff when dries is not as hard as epoxy, so be careful as not to ding it.

[Speedracer128]

Thanks Gabe. I read through the post. The bottom of my sponsons seem fairly smooth so I think I'll be good just sanding down. I don't think I need to bondo the sponsons but ill figure that out next week when I'm prepping it

[Speedracer128]

Thanks Tlandauer,

I'm going to sand the boat down this week and start working on the pads. After trueing the sponsons did the ride change much?